Thank you for taking the time to help me I understand now fully.
Motor Removal re Motor Mounts?
- Thread starter 340inabbody
- Start date
-
Thank you for taking the time to help me I understand now fully.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
I do the engine/trans together all the time. No biggy, just take your time.
Couple of things to do beforehand-
-Pull the driveshaft, wrap the trans output in plastic and secure it in place with a couple winds of duct tape. Or use a spare yoke if you have one. Otherwise you'll end up with a gallon of ATF on the floor under your car.
-Pull the distributor. Clearance to the firewall can be minimal, and twisting/tipping the engine can bust your distributor if you're not careful.
-Don't forget to drop the exhaust. At the manifolds is best, but can be a pain if the bolts are rusty- and they always are.
Couple of things to do beforehand-
-Pull the driveshaft, wrap the trans output in plastic and secure it in place with a couple winds of duct tape. Or use a spare yoke if you have one. Otherwise you'll end up with a gallon of ATF on the floor under your car.
-Pull the distributor. Clearance to the firewall can be minimal, and twisting/tipping the engine can bust your distributor if you're not careful.
-Don't forget to drop the exhaust. At the manifolds is best, but can be a pain if the bolts are rusty- and they always are.
Great inputs. I did all of this already.plastic bag over tail shaft with tight rubber bands.
Only need to remove the hood and that I can’t do myself. Headers were taken out last night. That was a pita on the driver side.
I am leaning toward pulling just the motor and then if I am able install as a unit trans/engine.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
With the hood open, loosen all four hood bolts.
Prop the hood open with a broom handle or whatever.
Remove the rear bolts, then remove the broom and allow the hood to pivot down.
Run 2 lifting straps around the hood; one front to back and the other side to side. Two loops of rope will suffice if you don't have lifting straps.
Now use your engine hoist to lift the hood slightly, and remove the forward hood bolts. Now you can wheel the hoist & hood out of the way- if you've got a pair of sawhorses to set the hood down onto, that makes it easier to unhook from the hoist. Done.
Honestly, it probably took me longer to type this than it would take to do it. But I type real slow...
I pull them with the hood on.... but I bolt a chain from the front drivers head to the passenger back 2 intake bolts keeping the slack only about 3" above the intake.
Not noted but assuming floor jack would need to be north south to roll with movement.
Just thinking out loud if I'm in similar boat.
yeah... once the 2 bolts are removed from the mount to tranny, it will just slide right on over. Just giving it a little support so it doesn't do something stupid like tare the rear seal or something. I've never had a issue
Hope the OP reads this.
Jack needs to be oriented to roll forward or backward supporting transmission as I understand it pulling engine and transmission together.
Yeah, I've pulled it tipping the jack over before... lol. None of this is critical. Eyeball it and it makes common sense....
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Or you just roll the car backwards, which is usually easier.
Especially if you're using a chainfall or winch instead of a cherrypicker.
I still support the transmission tailshaft just so it doesn't scrape it's way over, and some seals have the rubber boot and that can get torn.
I am 90% sure I’m going to the pool just the motor at this point. Are there four facing bolts into rearward facing bolts on the transmission housing?
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Right, but you don't have to worry about orienting the floor jack, since it can stay relatively stationary.
-
Similar threads
