408 windage tray

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AJ71DUSTER

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Well for those who have followed my previous threads about the 408 short block that I got from Blue print engines,over the past week they called and sent me a brand new short block, maybe there is a santa clause.So I bought a windage tray from mopar performance and the kit had 4 new main cap bolts and 8 washers. I know that I would have to replace the cap bolts with the ones from the kit,but why so many washers? so when I put on the tray after replacing the bolts with the new ones, the rotating assembly would hit the tray so I removed the tray and added 1 washer per bolt and had to adjust the tray to the right spot so that the rotating assembly would not hit the tray,its very close but does not make contact, is this normal to have to add washers to the cap bolts on the 408? also should I add the other washer to increase the distance between the rotating assembly and tray?

thanks for your input..
 
It's not normal to run a 4" stroke with the tray... so wahtever you need to do to get it to clear, do it. If you have to use a few I'd suggest using blue locktite on the windage tray screws. Also, it's a good idea to pry open the slots a bit... And before you tighten everything down for final assembly install the oil pan and make sure it clears the tray too.
 
Thanks for the reply, what are the cons for running the tray, if the cons out way the pros I could always send it back.thanks for the info on the opening the slots I would have never done that.

Thanks again.
 
Hmmmm........

Cons for running a windage tray.......

Hmmmmmm................

It takes time to put on.............?
It can fall off if your not careful putting it on correctly?



I think free HP and less air in the oil outweights the cons.

I cut mine, to make it fit the 4" stroke.
 
In a sb mopar you don't need a windage tray. I don't run one and I spin my 360 7500rpm with a milodon 7qt pan. Just run the pan a little low on oil (1- 1.5qts.)
I've seen no gains at all using one. Not worth the hassle.
 
In a sb mopar you don't need a windage tray. I don't run one and I spin my 360 7500rpm with a milodon 7qt pan. Just run the pan a little low on oil (1- 1.5qts.)
I've seen no gains at all using one. Not worth the hassle.
Click to expand...

You don't NEED a lot of things....... Have any idea what a windage tray even does?
 
ou812 said:
In a sb mopar you don't need a windage tray. I don't run one and I spin my 360 7500rpm with a milodon 7qt pan. Just run the pan a little low on oil (1- 1.5qts.)
I've seen no gains at all using one. Not worth the hassle.
Click to expand...


Are there any gains to a windage tray in a stock pan application.

I can't run a pan any deeper than stock in my car.

Man I wish Milodon would make a SB version of thier BB road race pan. Steve (Milodon) said the BB sells decent but no plans for a SB version. Bummer.
 
thanks for your replies,and Lol's. dodgetkboy78 where did you cut the tray? did you add any washers to the main cap bolts? and still had to cut the tray?
I added one washer that were supplied to the cap bolts and the tray does clear but it's real close.

thanks
 
I always like running them, especially with a stock pan and the long stroke. I didnt mean that running them was a bad idea.. Just that the factory engineer didnt foresee a 4" stroke...lol. So some engineering is required. On a race engine I'd run a scraper, tray, and oil control baffles in a deeper pan. But it would be a better tray than the factory one...lol.
 
AJ71DUSTER said:
thanks for your replies,and Lol's. dodgetkboy78 where did you cut the tray? did you add any washers to the main cap bolts? and still had to cut the tray?
I added one washer that were supplied to the cap bolts and the tray does clear but it's real close.

thanks
Click to expand...

To elaborate...the tray likes to "hold" onto the oil coming down and that allows the crank to suck it back up.
It happens to chevy's too.

The best place for a tray is right above the oilpan sump so it won't allow the oil to be sucked up into the crank.
That's why all the good chevy pans have built in windage trays. I wish they'd start doing that to mopar pans...HUH.

I find the milodon street/strip pan works the best run a qt. low in most any application. I run them in 700HP engines turning 7500rpm with 4" cranks and no oiling problems what so ever!
 
Yeah, I ran washers, I had to cut mine around where the pick up was, by the oil pump, I thinkn because I spaced it out.........

Been a little while, and I have had my hands in so many Ford engines lately Mopars, especially my own, are getting real foggy.

But I do think the tray had to be cut for the pickup frmo spacing it.

However, my truck pan is a rear sump, your car pan is middle, right?
 
Yea the pan is in the middle,I did get the tray mounted today, just by looking at the way the pick up tube is going to lay it should be alright i will find out tomorrow how that will work. thanks for your reply
 
I have the arp main studs w/milodon windage tray, it came with 12 nuts.
I had to clearance the pick up a lil, mainly the rods though, and used the nuts doubled up underneath the tray to adjust height then loc tite on final ***.
 
Sounds like a lot of BS for something that isn't necessary, don't you think?

JK

I thought about it. I too had the ARP studs, and I did the same thing, Nut, tray, nut. The cutting I had to do was for the pickup tube, I believe I had to cut it towards the back of the pan, because the pickup tube goes pretty much straight down on the truck pan, and forward then down on the car pan.
 
Tom Q said:
Kevko oil pan
Click to expand...

What is stock depth?

This one is 1/2" deeper than the other 7 1/2" pans they have.

I have a feeling this is at least 1/2" deeper than stock. It got some fore and aft baffles. But I'd really like some something with kick out side and some trap one way doors.

I have had my pan sucked dry at the track.It was when a pro driver drove the car and was forcing it to throttle downshift. It's an automatic and the motor is weak. Took 1/2 hour or so to get the lifters back pumped up. Then I went back out myself and beat the crap out of it.:snakeman: That was three years ago. Been to two track days since...

:clock:

Part # M301 | M302
Chrysler Stock Location Pans

This pan fits most stock pan locations. It has a 2 gate assembly, crank scraper, and baffles. It measures 8" deep with the front expanded for more capacity. 6 quart capacity. Painted Black Finish.


M301_full.gif
 
I decided to go with a tray withh a 4" stroke - no clearance isue there.... but because of the main caps it needed some "adjustment".

Kory

Tray 1 (Small) (2).JPG


Tray on Engine Final 1 (Small).jpg


Tray on Engine Final 2 (Small).jpg


Tray on Engine Try 1d (Small).jpg
 
This is great thanks for the pics and part #'s,plus all of the info to help me assemble this correctly
 
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