Fresh engine, wiped cam? Tick? (new pics added)

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As far as the "rust" goes on the cam, that wasn't there before I installed it. So either that is from the oil, pre lube assembly, or water somehow? Maybe it's something other than rust? like I say... it does feel smooth, not bumpy or corroded in anyway.
 
is it me or does that lifter in the last pic on the right look just a little short?????my be me im on meds right now and ready for bed but looks shorter than the rest....
 
Honestly... I did see that! I was just wondering if someone else would say anything. Would that little bit make a tick??
Also, I have read to look into Napa lifters... I don't know? Is a lifter a lifter? Napa seems like it would be cheap. I think Summit has there own brand too. I don't want to get junk.
will any Hydraulic Flat Tappet, work? It seems like I should stick with Lunati... (although more expensive)
Is .015 for the pre-load is o.k assuming it was done correctly?
 
That much pre-load is fine.

My freind just built a 383 with a lunati cam and lifters and had a very bad ticking sound.
It was a bad lifter and he replaced it with a napa lifter.
 
I just did some browsing around, and here are a couple of pictures from a cam that Stroked 340 was selling...
You notice the wear pattern is simular to mine, and purple. He said he used this cam about 30 times down the track, so it has more miles then mine. It just leads to to believe that maybe my cam is fine?

DSCF0211.jpg


DSCF0212.jpg
 
pattern looks good,you've got a collapsed lifter.buy new ones if you aren't 100% sure which bore they came from.
 
i just looked at the wear pattern on your cam...looks normal to me.......
you KNOW when you wipe out a lobe!
Grafton!? you're just down the road.......
 
Yeah, the pattern on the lobes and lifters look good to me.
WHere you have problems is if the wear is blatantly obvious like a gouge, or a liter that doesnt have a wear ring at the bottom.

Collapsed mopar lifters are common, especially the rollers. I have had a few go bad on me in the past. When they work, they work seemingly forever, but they aren't just cheap because of the volume they are produced in....
 
Kielbasa, can you cruise over and help him out?
The poor mans check I wrote earlier works good, but you have to know how thick the cardboard or plastic you are using is. Doing more than one cylinder is not a bad thing.
You are looking for a .020"-.040" preload. I prefer it closer to .020".


P.S. I agree that they don't look terrible guys...that's why it needs to be reassembled and then ya let the cam do the talkin!!!
 
I have had a similar problem with my truck (83 D 250, 318, EQ Magnum head conversion, Melling "stock replacement" 360 cam, (compare to COMP 252) Summit 7.650 pushrods; 1 lifter from either cyl # 2 or 4; I just went and pulled the intake and looked; cam looks fine, chucked an old pushrod, left over from the "stock" days of this engine into my drill press; on #4 Intake (3rd valve back, from the front of the head) it was like that "squishy spring" mentioned way back in the thread; I had gotten my lifters from the local Car Quest when I did the swap; they'd sold me a set of lifters whose brand name I did not recognize; i was hesitant on using them for that reason; but I did....
the rest, I bent pushrods in the drill press (NO I did not have the DP running) and on the 2nd PR, I got a LITTLE compression of the lifter with oil weeping out the hole in the side; this one, while not exactly "easy", was the only one that readily went down, and the only one I was able to get 1/4-3/8" of compression out of.... and I did not bend a pushrod in the process! My truck has 15K on the conversion to mag heads (2K of that , just in the last 2 weeks) and that "1 lifter" has been gettin steadily worse; I noticed it faintly almost from Day#1 of the mag head swap. (why I took out the MP conversion 7.625 pushrods and ordered the Summit 7.650's, on account of "that one lifter"... so now I'm off to grab the phone and see who has LA 318 lifters on the shelf; how many I swap out, I guess will depend on who has what IN STOCK; I need my truck back going; if I can find someone that has even 2 in stock (I'll replace both on #4 at a minimum) I'll be happy. I know I should do them all; but with money as it is these days, you all know how that goes;
 
Myasylum,get your self some new lifters and try them,one of my Lunati cams whent through a few lifters too,they make great cams but there seems to be issues with their lifters atleast from what i've found..
 
Stroked 340, I talked to lunati and if the (correct length) pushrods don't rotate they want to see the cam so they can make sure it's ok or fix it and will probably replace the lifters...pretty cool.
 
mopar340dave said:
Stroked 340, I talked to lunati and if the (correct length) pushrods don't rotate they want to see the cam so they can make sure it's ok or fix it and will probably replace the lifters...pretty cool.
Click to expand...

Hmmm..might have to look in to that,if the current cam starts making noise..thanks:-D:-D
 
Yeah, I was very clear on what's been going on and he (Shane at Lunati) even looked at the pics on the first page of this thread. he wants to make it right if he needs to. I'm really wantin someone to go over there and make sure on the pushrod length. The cam is mild enough that he could get away with shimming the stock rocker shafts up to compensate if the pushrods are now a little bit too long. I don't think they will be too long to shim, but I do believe they are too long to just bolt down.

I'm hoping that Kielbasa can help him measure.
 
The pushrod length is the distance from the rocker arm cup (valve on seat) to the lifter cup (lifter on base circle, cup up against snap ring/spring clip) plus .020".
 
Are lifters suppose to do this? All of my lifters do this!
Watch the inner piece of the lifter move in and out, just by gravity. Is this normal?
(you might have to turn up audio to hear this)


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4tDVMI9gDE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4tDVMI9gDE[/ame]
 
myasylum said:
Are lifters suppose to do this? All of my lifters do this!
Watch the inner piece of the lifter move in and out, just by gravity. Is this normal?
(you might have to turn up audio to hear this)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4tDVMI9gDE
Click to expand...

They should only do that when they are dry (no fluid build up inside)

you need to do what I had mentioned before,fill a cup up with oil,submerge the lifter and let it sit in the oil for a bit....then take a pushrod and put it in the lifter and try manually pumping the lifter......it should fill up with oil and become extreamly hard to push down.

after doing this the lifter should stay pumped up and shouldnt bleed down and if it does it should take awhile before it does.

if it still rattles or does not build up or is very easy to manually plunge than you have a bad lifter.
 
Hmmmm I really don't thing you should be able to make then rattle like that! Dry or with oil..............got to go fine one of my old lifters to fined out.

........................

OK! just when out and pull a used lifter apart and clean all the oil out of it. And put it all back together.

The lifter DO NOT, RATTLE!!! there is a spring in there that prevent it!

lifter will collapse or squish now, but it will not rattle


If any of your lifters rattle......YOU found you noise!!!
 
I can make dry lifters do it or a lifter that has bleed down......they have to have oil in the to stay "pumped up" if you had a bad "collapsed" lifter....it will not hold the oil pressure in the lifter and will not let it pump up and maintain pressure.

the lifter is the cushion between the hard parts and as sson as that cushion is gone the lifter bleeds down and creates a dead space which pretty much gives you a 1/4 of an inch slack between your pushrod and lifter or vise versa between you pushrod and rocker which everway it desides to fall.

I have seen guys not take care of a problem like that right away and turn a pushrod into the shape of a Z lol ....I have even seen some rocket out the bottom up the oil pan or even out a valve cover.

you need to figure out if you have bad lifters because they were cheap no name brand lifters? or if you got a bad batch? or if there is something set up wrong in your engine?

I am going to say that between the decked block and milled heads....that your pushrods being stock length are to long and made your lifters fail.

you need to get cutom pushrods or shim out your rocker arms and get a new set of lifters and you should be good to go!
 
Yes, these lifters are the ones that came with the cam. Strangely enough they look exactly like the $3.00 ones that Summit sells. I will be calling Lunati tomorrow.

When their was oil in the lifters, all I had to do was put my finger in that "cup" and oil would come right out the hole. Their was really no pressure at all.

If the pushrods are too long, would the blame then fall on the engine builder?

Sorry about creating the other post guys, and thought you all abandoned me! Sorry, shame on me! You are the masters! :eek:ops: :notworth:
 
I can make dry lifters do it or a lifter that has bleed down......they have to have oil in the to stay "pumped up" if you had a bad "collapsed" lifter....it will not hold the oil pressure in the lifter and will not let it pump up and maintain pressure.
Click to expand...
Are you taking about the rattle or just the collapsing of lift?

you need to figure out if you have bad lifters because they were cheap no name brand lifters? or if you got a bad batch? or if there is something set up wrong in your engine?
Click to expand...
x2

I am going to say that between the decked block and milled heads....that your pushrods being stock length are to long and made your lifters fail.
Click to expand...
I kinda agree..........with the block deck and the head shaved, the lifter should be deeper then .015"???

myasylum, You may want to double check you work,, to make sure its .015 or what.

you need to get cutom pushrods or shim out your rocker arms and get a new set of lifters and you should be good to go!
Click to expand...
I agree, only get the lifters first and then make the dession on shims and lifters.

myasylum, what was the stock thickness of the your head gasket before and what is it now.
this may add some insight to the problem
 
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