Fresh engine, wiped cam? Tick? (new pics added)

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When their was oil in the lifters, all I had to do was put my finger in that "cup" and oil would come right out the hole. Their was really no pressure at all.
Click to expand...

You need new lifters
 
As far as the gasket... That kind of sucks... Because they were figuring my compression ratio to be 10:1, but then they used the gasket that came with the Fel-Pro kit, which was thicker then they anticipated... so they lowered to compression ratio to be about 9:9 or so. What exactly the thickness of the gaskets was now, I don't recall?? Sorry.

The fact that EVERY lifter rattles... I think tells me it's the push rod length. I think?

Can I just make square shims from aluminum cans? I don't know what else would be easy to cut to size. I guess I can mill around a hardware store for a while.

Also I can't really check preload without new lifters anyhow, right? Don't they need to be pumped up to check the preload?
 
myasylum said:
As far as the gasket... That kind of sucks... Because they were figuring my compression ratio to be 10:1, but then they used the gasket that came with the Fel-Pro kit, which was thicker then they anticipated... so they lowered to compression ratio to be about 9:9 or so. What exactly the thickness of the gaskets was now, I don't recall?? Sorry.

The fact that EVERY lifter rattles... I think tells me it's the push rod length. I think?

Can I just make square shims from aluminum cans? I don't know what else would be easy to cut to size. I guess I can mill around a hardware store for a while.

Also I can't really check preload without new lifters anyhow, right? Don't they need to be pumped up to check the preload?
Click to expand...

No actually I like to check them without them being pumped up, measure how far the plunger in the lifter goes down when the rockers are tighten down. Make sure the cam lobe is on the heel.
 
Well... That's the problem, the plunger is already all the way down. There is no pressure.
 
myasylum said:
Well... That's the problem, the plunger is already all the way down. There is no pressure.
Click to expand...

Man i don't know what type of lifter doesn't have a spring in it that holds the plunger up? Sounds like it's time for a different brand set of lifters.
 
myasylum said:
Well... That's the problem, the plunger is already all the way down. There is no pressure.
Click to expand...


Do me a favor, take the snap ring out of one of them lifters, and see if the spring is broke!

You need to double check you pre load..........................WHAT A MINUTE!

OK you say that the plunger is below the snap ring right!?

You need a new lifter before you can check the preload.

There is only .015" preload because the lifter is already half way down................The spring should be holding the plunger up agenced the snap ring.

Fallow what I'm saying?

I think the push rods are too long and broke the spring inside..........check it out!
 
ive seen severly blead down lifters sink a 1/4 inch in.

I actually had one collapsed lifter on my engine I was building a few weeks ago that was sunk in a 1/4 in and I could make it rattle....put it in a buckket of oil and pumped it manually and it has stayed pumped up since,it just sat for a long time without running.

but with yours being a running engine with only 250 miles on it and having the problems we have all discussed....I am still saying yours are probably all junk
 
What ever the block and heads were cut as a total , is what you will have over stock pre-load.
Example: .020 cut on head
.010 cut on block
=.030 total metal is gone.
You then would use a .030 shim under the rocker arm pedestal.
Stock length push rods are still used in this example.

Find out what the total cut is and run the shims needed.
Buy new lifters and your done.
Check your lifter pre-load when everything is back together with the new lifters.
I used the same lifters summit sells and so did my freind with a 273 and they worked fine.
We bought are lifters from paw but i think they are the same part # at summit racing.
Like i said before, my other freind with the 340 just had a bad lunati lifter.
Both motors were put together this year.
Maby lunati is using crap lifters.

ps \\ have lunati give you your money back on the lifters and that will pay for them.
Hey they might give you a new cam and let you keep the one you got.
When it comes down to it ,your a paying customer that got junk.:angry7:
 
Well I'd like to see what the company says first. If they are willing to take them back I don't want to open them. I will see what they say, and play with them more tomorrow.
 
I do remember it was brought into question if the intake would fit properly because the head and block where milled. The intake fit fine, so maybe they figured the push rods would be fine as well? I don't know? Would this then be the fault of the engine builder?
 
myasylum said:
My engine has about 250mi. There is a pretty loud tick on the top end at the #8 cylinder. I have a feeling that the cam is wiped. The exhaust manifold seems fine.

Since this is a pretty fresh engine, my money situation is now nothing, so this sucks. I am thinking about just getting a couple of new lifters and placing them in for the #8 cylinder, and see if that fixes it first. IF it doesn't, my guess is that it would be the cam. Now... If it is the cam I am kind of afraid of metal floating in my oil, but I don't know? Since there is so few miles on it, do you think I can get away with just installing the cam, and new lifters?
I know I SHOULD tear the whole thing apart and check everything. As I say, I'm a poor boy right now.

Am I on the right track? Is this what you would advise doing? I did have a shop quote me $1500.00 to tear it apart, and clean it out and place it together again. He figured since the heavy work is done (like the heads) 250mi ago, that $1500.00 would be about what they would charge. I don't have the room to do the complete engine myself.

I have options here... but what would you do? What could I get away with?

Thanks much!
Click to expand...
change the cam too too many flat tappet cams going flat these days
use comp break in oil or additive new oil sucks now days used to be only chevy cams went flat....
 
bad440 said:
change the cam too too many flat tappet cams going flat these days
use comp break in oil or additive new oil sucks now days used to be only chevy cams went flat....
Click to expand...
forgot shorter pushrods
 
I think you just have a bad lifter in the bunch.
One sound=One part
 
T67POWER said:
I think you just have a bad lifter in the bunch.
One sound=One part
Click to expand...

That may be true, but if it was mine, i would replace all the lifters, and make SURE the preload was right on all lifters.

Then if cam don't make lifters rotate........Send the hole lot back to lunati!!!!

Sounds like they will take care of you...............But we will see............


You might as well get your new lifters from Lunati. That way, one company can't blame the other, for the port machined part.
"You keep the fight with ONE COMPANY!"

Maybe Fight isn't the right word..................Yet
 
One more thing,
lay a straight edge across the valves, like you did with the lifter face. Make Sure they are the same height!!!!!!!!
 
DusterDude72 said:
I can make dry lifters do it or a lifter that has bleed down......they have to have oil in the to stay "pumped up" if you had a bad "collapsed" lifter....it will not hold the oil pressure in the lifter and will not let it pump up and maintain pressure.
Click to expand...

A good lifter will not rattle by hand and the lifter cup will always be held up against the circlip or snap ring by the internal spring. If not, the lifter spring has been collapsed by too much pre-load. No, they don't have to be pumped up to eliminate a rattle heard by hand. I know how hydaulic lifters work. I changed out my first cam in '82 and was a professional mechanic from 84 to 95.
 
to each his own I suppose .....everyone will have a different opinon, the fact still remains you need new lifters.....don't buy just one or two,go ahead and get all new ones.

if you are planning on getting new lifters,you may aswell pull the clip out of a lifter or two and disassemble it so we can all see what the internals of them look like.....you can put it back togeather after you do so.

This thread has been a tricky one because so many people have different opinions but i think we all have came to the conclusion that the lifters are no good.
 
Just to let people know what's up, I called Shane at Lunati twice, but he was busy each time, so I left a message. If I don't hear from him in a few hours I'll give him another call. I'd like to hear from him before I just buy lifters on my own. I will get back to everyone when I hear from him, or when I get a chance I'll take the lifters apart and post pictures. It will be a while, my wife is nagging me today! :)
I will get back to you guys soon, and yes the lifters and push rod size seems to ultimately be the problem here.
Thanks to all!!!
 
Cool! I think we're getting to the bottom of this! I would hope we got it close to figured out...this thread is almost as bad as Facebook! 144 posts....and counting! LOL
 
at least you are on the road to recovery...hopefully Lunati will take care of you....
 
Well... Bad news...

He said that if every lifter is bad, the whole cam is bad.
He would like me to box everything up and send it to him to be inspected, and we'll go from there.

I could however just get new lifters and just go with it, but if Lunati is willing to work with me on this... maybe I should take him up on it? It's just the work, and time involved, and I rather not bother... but, i guess??

It sucks too, because today is the first 70+ degree day, and everyone has their cars out. ahh.... Oh well...

Oh, to be clear a few people ask... Yes, it is a stroker motor. Cast Eagle crank, nothing too special.
 
I would work with lunati. They will send you a knew cam and lifter package if yours is defective. Possibly even swap you for another of your liking. I'm sure they are interested in seeing what is up with their lifters. I almost want to think that someone forgot to install the springs.
 
63dartman-interesting idea... Now I'll have to take one apart! :)
I just don't want to take one apart and and some how void some warranty. That would suck! Luckily I saved the box! I was just going to throw it out!

However... Lunati said they would "inspect it, and go from there", I'm not sure what "go from there, is? We'll see.
Do you think if I can would I be safe with stock rockers, and a cam that is a step up? 0.513 int./0.533 exh. lift, vs. 0.494 int./0.513 exh. lift? I guess that would effect the Valve, and piston clearance too then huh? Maybe I shouldn't rock the boat? :)

Kielbasa-who is pretty new on the forum lives somewhat close to me, said that he may be able to help me out, which is cool! He's about 15mi away, which is a lot closer than most of you, so hopefully that will work out.

This may be the last you hear from me for a while, until I get word on what is going on. I'll try to get pics of the lifters however....

Thanks to everyone!!!!
 
Yeah man. Pull it out and send them the cam and lifters. they can assess the degree of damage to the cam and fix you up. It will only cost you shipping and a little extra wrenching. pull the rad and the grill (if needed) and the cam will slide out the front. While you are at it, drop less than $50 on the magnum chain tensioner...money well spent and it bolts in in place of your cam plate.
P5007709
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_dodge_truck_magnum_engine_parts.htm
 
mopar340dave no offense but every time I read one of your posts I laugh cause all I can hear is Lee Emery givin engine advice,askin someone what their major malfunction is,too funny.
 
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