green1
Well-Known Member
LoL, Back in the day(early 70's) I smoked 396, 350hp Chevelles, 383 Cudas, Mach ones. All at the track. And that was with a 318, I love my 340's. So much faster. 11" of tread, and a chirp going into 3rd, with a 727.
340ci vs 360ci engine
- Thread starter AxelsMopar
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67DartGT340
Well-Known Member
I have driven both in stock form and I would definitely say go for the 340 if you want performance. Yes they can both be played with too increase the performance, but speaking from a stock point of view 340=performance!
AxelsMopar
WolfiesDuster
Well I guess the 360 is probably a good idea then but Im still wondering if I can get the same preformance out of a 360 without stroking it? I mean is there a good set up I should use? Trans carb etc?
needsaresto
Well-Known Member
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Yes the 360 in stock form has low compression and small valves.It also had a milder cam. But I would give it the edge if I had to pick. Longer stroke means more bottom end torque and lighter pistons as mentioned.
the same performance ?...LOL....it will smoke the 340......
sure...back in the 70s the stock 340s were the hot thing and could out run a stock 360...but it aint the 70s anymore...nothing is stock anymore...
they use the same cylinder head....the 360 today has alot better pistons selection...lighter...cheaper...
sure...back in the 70s the stock 340s were the hot thing and could out run a stock 360...but it aint the 70s anymore...nothing is stock anymore...
they use the same cylinder head....the 360 today has alot better pistons selection...lighter...cheaper...
AxelsMopar
WolfiesDuster
I am currently earning money to buy a 73/74 mopar and Im thinking I can get more money in the end by buying a 318 then selling it to buy a 340 or 360. I don't plan on abusing it I just telling you guys kinda what I want to do!
67DartGT340
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with that Axel! It all boils down to doing what you want to do...whatever makes you happy and gives you a smile on your face IS the right way to go!
Hersbird
Well-Known Member
An interesting comparison is between the 73 340 Dusters and the 74 360 Dusters. Comparing the earlier much less emission controlled high compression 340's is not really apples to apples. What you will find is that the 360 made more HP according to Chrysler.
Car Craft ran a 14.6 at 95 mph 1/4 mile with an auto and 3.55 gears with a 74 360 Duster.
Road Test magazine only got a 14.56 at 96 with the higher compression 71 Demon 340 auto.
Basically it's not really about the block, it's the heads, compression, cam, etc. All else being the same the extra cubes of the 360 will give more power. It's like adding a small stroker to the 340. The 340 can take a bigger overbore but so can the 360 blocks of the same years. It's also the same argument when comparing building a 273 or a 318. The 273 was seen as a performance motor from the factory but the 318 is a much better starting point for a build in the aftermarket.
Car Craft ran a 14.6 at 95 mph 1/4 mile with an auto and 3.55 gears with a 74 360 Duster.
Road Test magazine only got a 14.56 at 96 with the higher compression 71 Demon 340 auto.
Basically it's not really about the block, it's the heads, compression, cam, etc. All else being the same the extra cubes of the 360 will give more power. It's like adding a small stroker to the 340. The 340 can take a bigger overbore but so can the 360 blocks of the same years. It's also the same argument when comparing building a 273 or a 318. The 273 was seen as a performance motor from the factory but the 318 is a much better starting point for a build in the aftermarket.
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
The 360 has a little longer stroke which helps with low-mid RPM torque. If you're gonna drive the car often and in traffic you'll like the 360 better. Figure you'll get about the same power out of each with the same parts, but the 360 will do it 500 RPM lower.
Actual build-up costs will be similar between the two, but 340's are getting harder to find. If both are available for the same money, the 360 is probably overpriced. I'd do like Joe said, sell the 340, build a 360 and put the extra into a nice converter or something. You'll have a better car in the end.
Actual build-up costs will be similar between the two, but 340's are getting harder to find. If both are available for the same money, the 360 is probably overpriced. I'd do like Joe said, sell the 340, build a 360 and put the extra into a nice converter or something. You'll have a better car in the end.
AxelsMopar
WolfiesDuster
Ok that makes sence so what would be a good set up? Say trans carb converters etc?
Build what you can afford. It sounds like a well thought out 360 would suit your needs better. They have more low end torque, which is better for getting you off the line faster, without having to use a stall convertor.
If you have the money to shell out on a 340, more power to ya! They rev to the moon, and are a ton of fun to drive. But really, how often can you rev a street car to 7 grand, without drawing a bunch of unwanted attention (police).
If you have the money to shell out on a 340, more power to ya! They rev to the moon, and are a ton of fun to drive. But really, how often can you rev a street car to 7 grand, without drawing a bunch of unwanted attention (police).
Unless you're going to run them in bone stock, factory configuration the 360 is probably a better bet. The 340 has a reputation for high performance because of the way it rolled out of the factory, with 10:1 compression, 4 barrel carb, forged crank etc. And the 360 never had that reputation because they never had better than 8.5:1 compression and many came with 2 barrels. But a 360 built to the same specifications will do just as well or better than the 340 (after all, 20 more cubes).
The rebuild on a 340 will cost more money. Not a ton, but more. There aren't as many piston options available as for a 360, and there are some quirks. Most of the pistons available for the 340's put the tops of the piston's above the deck .018", which makes it more difficult if you want to run an aftermarket closed chamber head.
As far as price, the 340's will cost more. I bought my 340 short block for just under $300 (a steal even though it was .030 over already), but I just bought a complete 360 that would probably run with a little work for $50. I've seen some crazy prices on 340's, but I've also seen quite a few in the $500 range for a short block.
The rebuild on a 340 will cost more money. Not a ton, but more. There aren't as many piston options available as for a 360, and there are some quirks. Most of the pistons available for the 340's put the tops of the piston's above the deck .018", which makes it more difficult if you want to run an aftermarket closed chamber head.
As far as price, the 340's will cost more. I bought my 340 short block for just under $300 (a steal even though it was .030 over already), but I just bought a complete 360 that would probably run with a little work for $50. I've seen some crazy prices on 340's, but I've also seen quite a few in the $500 range for a short block.
needsaresto
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Several years back I bought a complete and running carb to pan 360 4bbl out of a truck. Even had low miles,about 64 000.
For $350...
You will never get a 340 block for that.Unless you get real lucky.
For $350...
You will never get a 340 block for that.Unless you get real lucky.
bobscuda67
Well-Known Member
I bought a 68 340 block that was already rough bored .030, cracked checked and hot tanked for $350. That was four years ago now but there are still some deals out there.
The 360's are cheaper to build for sure, but a 340 car will be worth more at resale time.
The 360's are cheaper to build for sure, but a 340 car will be worth more at resale time.
nothingbutdarts
Well-Known Member
Do you mean by this "providing it was a factory 340 car to begin with"????? As far a a value.
AxelsMopar
WolfiesDuster
Well Im thinking that I would buy a 360 with a 4 barrel carb and put a 727 trans on it. But Im not sure yet. What do you guys think about that?
Hersbird
Well-Known Member
Do you have a car yet or are you still looking? If you are still looking and you want a fun driver with pleanty of inexpensive parts I'd get a 72-76 Duster. Don't worry to much about the motor back as a straight rust free body and decient interior slant 6 will save you more money in the long run. I had a great 73 318 disc brake gold duster w/o motor and tranny I bought for $350 just to get the disc brake setup off it. I stripped the rest and had to junk the shell because I couldn't give it away. (anybody need 73 Duster parts? LOL)
I looks like you might be leaning toward a late B-body Charger which is also a good choice but will cost much more then the Duster and ultimately be slower and handle worse then the lighter smaller duster. Then again Richard Petty said those late Chargers were his favorite race cars of all time and he knows a thing or two about cool cars!
I looks like you might be leaning toward a late B-body Charger which is also a good choice but will cost much more then the Duster and ultimately be slower and handle worse then the lighter smaller duster. Then again Richard Petty said those late Chargers were his favorite race cars of all time and he knows a thing or two about cool cars!
KramerSwinger70
70 Dart Swinger360
i was in the same boat as you about 3 months ago, asking 340 or 360. recently picked up a 76 cordoba 360. built correctly, some guys here have gotten roughly 20mpg, 350 hp, 400 tq with freeway gears. i cant personaly vouche on that but im planning on doing 280hp on my street 360 and expect 18-20mpg range so good luck!
link to the thread i got my info on 360s
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=89721
link to the thread i got my info on 360s
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=89721
AxelsMopar
WolfiesDuster
What would I need to bore a 318 over to make it a 340? Im looking into alot of options and this is one im thinking about when I get my mopar. Im still looking at stuff but in the end I think i'll end up with a 318 dodge charger se. Dont get me wrong A bodies a cool BUT im just looking for a Charger for now. Then onto a Duster or Demon cause they also look cool!
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
To bore a 318 into a 340, you'd need a 340 block.
It sounds like you need to buy a car first, and then decide how to power it.
As for 360's, unless you plan to run a factory cast iron intake, there is no point in buying a 4Bbl motor. They are otherwise pretty much the same.
It sounds like you need to buy a car first, and then decide how to power it.
As for 360's, unless you plan to run a factory cast iron intake, there is no point in buying a 4Bbl motor. They are otherwise pretty much the same.
As stated here before, you can't bore a 318 to the 340's 4.04 bore size. If you have nothing to start with, (no cores...blocks/heads, etc...) I would build a 360 for the bang for the buck. Cheaper core block, 3.580 crank vs 3.310 crank = more torque down low where you need it. In the end both 340 and 360 with similar builds can make about the same HP, but the 360 will out torque (and therefore outrun) the 340...
AxelsMopar
WolfiesDuster
Well I was just thinking outloud on that one... But im trying to find some good low cost ideas to get 300+ hp out of the 318 while I save up for other things like a 360. I want to buy a bigger rear eng and gear so that in the future I could put a BB in there. But I just want to learn as much as possible while I earn money.
If it was me (And its Not ) the 340 is what i would do. or do what i did about ten years ago had a 340 block a boat motor on top of that. and a 360 crank cut the crank down to fit the 340 and used 360 rods and pistons . with a good set of J heads . WOW that thing would scream.. but for the money the 360 would do great. got a good stock bore 70 340 block and crank could not give it way i tried to once the guy said no . so my son is going to put it in his dakota.. do what your money will let you do. thats the bottom line here.
Demon340GSS
Own three Mr.Norms Demons
I agree with that statement.
The 340 makes more power and rev's quicker and has a higher upper rpm limit when in stock form over a 360 set up the same way in my opinion.
360's did not come with full bushed rods and steel cranks and good pistons in stock form and the 340's from 67 thru 71 did come this way.
even the 72 and 73 340's still have full floating pins and run fair on todays gas still.
I recommend the 360 though for they are more plentifull and if you hurt it then you are not ruining a 340 motor that could have been saved for a restoration.
Save the 340 for a true 340 car and restore it.
If you want a hot street car thats ok, .
The 340's are harder to find, But I bet you can get a 360 for next to nothing at a wrecking yard or ebay. Maybe even for free!
Be dollars ahead and be real about your expected performance level.
If you are not planning on reving the motor past 6,000 rpm then still stay with the 360.
Or if you want a go faster, or more rpm.. then chose the 340 or build a 360 using the full bushed rods and change to a steel crank instead of the cast. The dragonslayer is a great stroker crank in either application..
Built up a 340 still will outperform a 360 usually in my opinion, even in the stroker versions and full race.
Just my thoughts in print.
And I own a bunch of them 340's!
Grant Eaton 407-947-9005
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