Strange Steering Problem

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DartGTDan

DartGTDan

'71 Dart GT Fan
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I've got the Federal PS pump (reman. unit) installed about 4 years/1500 miles ago on my 318 Dart GT.
Yesterday I took it for the 1st drive of the season through the neighborhood.
As I proceeded along (25 mph) it felt as though the pump stopped working for a few seconds, and the returned to normal. It did this a few times while driving in a straight path as well as on turns (both right and left).
It doesn't feel like the pump stops completely, as there feels like there is "some" pump assist (like 1/2 power?).
Also, while driving in a straight path the steering wheel occasionally doesn't want to go to the right until I "jerk" it over. It feels like there is something hanging it up. Once over, it proceeds through a turn OK.
I checked the fluid level (both hot and cold) and all is within normal limits. I then went to the school parking lot and did some circles (right lock to left lock) hoping to "burp" any air out of the pump.
After the "burp" session the issue continued.
Any ideas?

Dan
 
Sounds more like a steering box problem to me cause even if the pump don't work at all it should turn without jerking it. If you have to jerk it something's binding up.
 
had that prob with a cargo van. steering column bearings went out. had about a jillion miles though.
 
I have not changed anything on the vehicle (except for the starter motor) since last fall.
Got a little time to play today, so here is what I did.
I got the front wheels up off the ground. Started the engine and turned the steering wheel lock to lock a few times.
I noticed from left lock all the way through to the right lock there was a slight bind/friction.
However, from right lock all the way through left lock it was smooth.
With the wheels up and the engine still running, I then grabbed the front wheel and was able to "turn" it left with no problem. But, going to the right I felt the bind/friction again.
Any ideas.
 
Either an internal steering box problem or binding in the coupler. To determine which one is the problem you need to pull the steering column and check the coupler. If it's ok try turning the wheels by hand again. If it still binds the problem is internally in the steering box. I know this can happen cause my old box was leaking and I bought a supposed rebuilt box at a swap meet and it does the same thing except mine is hard to turn left. I tried the adjustment and it made no difference so I bought the seal for my old box (should have done that first) and am going to replace the bad seal and swap back to it since it worked right.
 
Box issue. Coupler would do it in both directions. I've never tried to play with one, but you can adjust the preload on the worm shaft (I think it's the worm) and it may take that out. Look in a factory service manual for th procedure... It's done from the top, so it's not a big deal.
 
Could be anything from the upper column bearing to the idler arm.
Seperate the column couplng from the gearbox and repeat those tests. If the problem isn't felt in the sterring column or the gearbox the coupling is the likely culprit.
 
try the shuttle valve and reation pin it is in top of the box and is ez to get to . dont forget to mark it wear the housing came off from it can slid fron to back for centering . reation plattes and suttle valve can play a big role in feel and problams. thrae is a spring on the pivot pin from the reation disk to the shuttle valve . it may be broken i have seen that to .
 
bb400dart said:
try the shuttle valve and reation pin it is in top of the box and is ez to get to . dont forget to mark it wear the housing came off from it can slid fron to back for centering . reation plattes and suttle valve can play a big role in feel and problams. thrae is a spring on the pivot pin from the reation disk to the shuttle valve . it may be broken i have seen that to .
Click to expand...
Yup, probably a control valve problem or an internal box failure. You can pull the control valve and dismantle it fairly easily. Make sure the spool valve moves nice and freely inside it's bore. As bb400dart mentioned, make sure you mark the position exactly where the valve is mounted on the box so it can be return to that same spot or you'll have to readjust it.....which can be a messy, time consuming job if you haven't done one before. The difference of 1/32" can mean the difference between perfect and a hard pull to one side.
 
Since it's been 2-1/2 yrs. since the original poster started this thread my guess is he's already got it fixed. Never fails, someone new digs up a thread that's years old and responds to it. LOL
 
fishy68 said:
Since it's been 2-1/2 yrs. since the original poster started this thread my guess is he's already got it fixed. Never fails, someone new digs up a thread that's years old and responds to it. LOL
Click to expand...
bb400dart you naughty boy!
 
FYI, it has been fixed.

The 2 o-rings in the shuttle valve were crusty (who'd thought a 40 year old car would have issues?). A buddy of mine found/fixed the problem.

Try the cheap simple things first!
 
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