What wouldn't be an insulting offer?

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TrailBeast said:
Exactly what I was thinking.

I wouldn't buy anything for more than core price without at the very least pulling the heads.
WAY to much dishonesty out there let alone plain ignorance.

It sounds a little unreasonable at first, but anyone who is selling an older motor should realize that having at least the heads off is a good thing if they really want a good price for it.
Having the heads off don't make it worth less in my eyes.
If they won't go for that then at the very least a comp test before any money goes anywhere.

Don't we remember the recent post on the 400 with the block split open inside? :D
Wanna pay 750, or 6, or even 50 for that?
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Well it's in a car right now, so I was going to bring a compression tester, but should I ask him to pull the heads for me as well?
 
The one you want of course.
but I don't know if the 75 trans is compatible with the 66 engine.
 
Expire said:
Well it's in a car right now, so I was going to bring a compression tester, but should I ask him to pull the heads for me as well?
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On a engine sitting on the ground you bet ya.

In a car and running, I myself would be ok with the decent results of the comp test and hearing it run (cold and warm) both.
Personally I think 500 is a lot for a used engine and most of the (good) ones I see are between three and six.
When I bought my car I didn't do a comp test, but it ran ok on all 8 and didn't smoke and had good oil pressure.
The last thing I told him after I had looked it over and it was nice and warmed up was if I stuck it to 6,000 RPM and it didn't start making noises or blow up I would take it.
He said "go ahead" and I did.
Been driving it for over two years now and 4 trips to the CA coast and back at 80-100 and 11 hours each way.
 
TrailBeast said:
On a engine sitting on the ground you bet ya.

In a car and running, I myself would be ok with the decent results of the comp test and hearing it run (cold and warm) both.
Personally I think 500 is a lot for a used engine and most of the (good) ones I see are between three and six.
When I bought my car I didn't do a comp test, but it ran ok on all 8 and didn't smoke and had good oil pressure.
The last thing I told him after I had looked it over and it was nice and warmed up was if I stuck it to 6,000 RPM and it didn't start making noises or blow up I would take it.
He said "go ahead" and I did.
Been driving it for over two years now and 4 trips to the CA coast and back at 80-100 and 11 hours each way.
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Yeah both are currently in a car and supposedly run and drive, I'll bring a comp test if I go to look at it.
 
Ask him what kinda of warranty he will give on all of it. I bet you'll get a negative response. I wouldn't give that kind of money on anything as is. They are cores. Should be close to scrap price. They made the 440 until about 1982 in trucks. There are a LOT more out there to choose from. But in the end, it's your money.
 
The '66 440 will NOT have 915 heads and will likely have small exhaust valves. The miles on the early motor are probably much easier than those on the '75. For a lot of reasons I'd go for the early motor, consider it a core, and be prepared to spend up to $2,500 for a rebuild. I'd check it thoroughly, including a tear down (pull heads and oil pan, at least).

Then, I'd offer quite a bit less than asking.
 
The '66 should have 516s, but may have small valve 915s especially if it's a later production assembly. I've personally seen both on original engines. Both are closed chamber. Both respond very well to replacing the exhaust valves with 1.74s. Early engine has the forged crank and more swap friendly pulleys and brackets - again - assuming no AC.
The later will have 452s or a variant of them - open chamber. Lower compression but if either engine can be heard run in the car(s), and compression tests done, they are worth his price all day long.
 
Thanks for the replies guys!

Jim Lusk said:
be prepared to spend up to $2,500 for a rebuild..
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I don't think that's quite possible for me, would it be safe to run it as is, or with a small rebuild of seals, gaskets, and a rebuild kit? But not going in to all the machining end of it?


moper said:
The '66 should have 516s, but may have small valve 915s especially if it's a later production assembly. I've personally seen both on original engines. Both are closed chamber. Both respond very well to replacing the exhaust valves with 1.74s. Early engine has the forged crank and more swap friendly pulleys and brackets - again - assuming no AC.
The later will have 452s or a variant of them - open chamber. Lower compression but if either engine can be heard run in the car(s), and compression tests done, they are worth his price all day long.
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Lost me on most of this, but both can be heard and driven. As far as accessories, it sounds like the '75 is better equipped to swap into my '74. But (and maybe I'm just over thinking) i don't want to get down the line and find out I can't do some type of modification since it's a lower comp motor.
 
I guess it depends on location. "Down here" I can go get a known good 440 core in the mornin for 150-200 bucks. Steel crank and all. Might have 906 heads on it, even though I would prefer 452s. It's all about availability.
 
Expire said:
Thanks for the replies guys!



I don't think that's quite possible for me, would it be safe to run it as is, or with a small rebuild of seals, gaskets, and a rebuild kit? But not going in to all the machining end of it?




Lost me on most of this, but both can be heard and driven. As far as accessories, it sounds like the '75 is better equipped to swap into my '74. But (and maybe I'm just over thinking) i don't want to get down the line and find out I can't do some type of modification since it's a lower comp motor.
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Low compression motors can be made to run great.

Also, if you cannot afford a 2500 dollar rebuild on a 440, you might want to reconsider this whole thing. 2500 dollars is a back yard, dirt road, minimalist build at best.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Low compression motors can be made to run great.

Also, if you cannot afford a 2500 dollar rebuild on a 440, you might want to reconsider this whole thing. 2500 dollars is a back yard, dirt road, minimalist build at best.
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Its not so much that I can't 'afford it' as much as I'm trying to get the motor so i can work on it during the winter while I do body work. if the car was all ready, minus the engine, I'd be more inclined to the rebuild price.

I guess I'm just trying to find something that I can run/drive where I know the 440/727 will at the very least, be able to run and drive. As opposed to buying a total core engine.
 
Even for a quality stock rebuild, you will spend 2500 dollars on machine work alone if "done right".

I just get it done a piece at a time. That's always how I've had to do it.
 
66fyssh said:
What are your plans for the car the motor is going into? cruiser, racer, show car??
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Just trying to build something I can enjoy, but I also want it to have some power. Mostly street, couple trips to the strip here and there.

I'm only shooting to get around 350-400HP. I originally was going to build a 318 to 325HP, but everyone recommended me to go BB in this case.

RustyRatRod said:
Even for a quality stock rebuild, you will spend 2500 dollars on machine work alone if "done right".

I just get it done a piece at a time. That's always how I've had to do it.
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Yeah, i guess I worry too much, lol.
I'll see what the guy says, if I can unload some stuff to get it, it wouldn't be bad.
 
i agree on the core prices previously mentioned. if its not apart and you can't inspect it. core core core.

i pay $250 for 440 cores and $75 for 727 cores when i get them locally. heads are usually junk anyways so i typically don't pay much attention to them. especially with OOTB specials you can get new these days.
 
If it can be heard to run, and basic tests done to establish it's state - it's not considered a core. Period. That's the same criteria used b ythe automotive profession since the Model T when one needed a service replacement. If you can't establish anything (i.e. hear it run, compression, turn it) it IS a core. No condition = no money. Confirmed good condition= $$$

OP - just pick one and go buy it. You need to be decisive.
 
TrailBeast said:
I wouldn't buy anything for more than core price without at the very least pulling the heads.
WAY to much dishonesty out there let alone plain ignorance.

Don't we remember the recent post on the 400 with the block split open inside? :D
Wanna pay 750, or 6, or even 50 for that?
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That's a nightmare scenario right there.:violent1: Hey TB, can you direct me to that thread with a link? Thanks.
 
RzeroB said:
That's a nightmare scenario right there.:violent1: Hey TB, can you direct me to that thread with a link? Thanks.
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I can't find it for the life of me now, but if someone remembers it was the block with the big split in the valley just below the heads.
 
Yeah you're talkin about the one where it was split wide open in the intake valley, right? That was nasty.
 
Just bought a 400 short block to build a low deck stroker later on for $100. Just sayin.
 
MOPARMITCH said:
Just bought a 400 short block to build a low deck stroker later on for $100. Just sayin.
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I would be jealous, but I'm kind of looking for a complete engine being as I'm not as mechanically inclined as the majority are here. Gotta know your limits I suppose.
 
Expire said:
Are you saying I should be replacing the balancer?
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I'm saying that if you ever want to have an SFI high performance balancer, or if you need to replace the stock one, they aren't just as close as the Summit catalog. I think the timing cover is different too. Might need different pulleys due to the balancer thickness.
 
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