Help with aluminum Intake ID P4532063

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Heywodja

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i am working on an old project i started about 17 years ago. So a lot of my parts are from that time frame so there have been updates and new items.
I had purchased this dual plane and I think it is a copy of the factory HP intake maybe even an M1. But I am not exactly sure so I could use some help with what it is..
Thanks!

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i am working on an old project i started about 17 years ago. So a lot of my parts are from that time frame so there have been updates and new items.
I had purchased this dual plane and I think it is a copy of the factory HP intake maybe even an M1. But I am not exactly sure so I could use some help with what it is..
Thanks!

I find it as a Mopar Performance big block M1 dual plane.
 
That’s what I thought but when I googled it my search never would confirm the part number.

I wonder how it would perform on a low compression motor with a set of the 440 source or edelbrock rpm’s?
73 Challenger, auto, 2000 stall 3:23 and a comp cam extreme energy .477 / . 480
 
That’s what I thought but when I googled it my search never would confirm the part number.

I wonder how it would perform on a low compression motor with a set of the 440 source or edelbrock rpm’s?
73 Challenger, auto, 2000 stall 3:23 and a comp cam extreme energy .477 / . 480

When I searched it I came up with another number even though I specifically searched the number on your intake.
What I saw was that the same intake could have either number.

Being an M1 and a dual plane tells me it would do just fine on a street car, but then I don't have a lot of experience with big block intakes.
I probably would cut the center divider though for better carb signal, or maybe use an open spacer.
 
I wouldn’t cut the center divider. Bad move. Not on that intake unless your in full race mode. It’s a good trick with big cams. AKA .600 lift.

That intake is a copy of the OE intake. It is very good from idle to 5500, no problem. It should be excellent on your written build up. You can use a stock carb or whatever you want to top it with. I’m not 100% sure, but you may need a spacer with a Holley on top. IIRC, which is the problem, the throttle linkage arm has clearance issues with that OE/MP intake.

A Carter or Edelbrock is a bolt on and go.
 
I wouldn’t cut the center divider. Bad move. Not on that intake unless your in full race mode. It’s a good trick with big cams. AKA .600 lift.

That intake is a copy of the OE intake. It is very good from idle to 5500, no problem. It should be excellent on your written build up. You can use a stock carb or whatever you want to top it with. I’m not 100% sure, but you may need a spacer with a Holley on top. IIRC, which is the problem, the throttle linkage arm has clearance issues with that OE/MP intake.

A Carter or Edelbrock is a bolt on and go.

Ok thanks rumble.

I am trying to decide between this manifold and performer RPM, this one I have and the RPM means breaking out the checkbook..
This manifold is brand and I might consider selling it to finance the RPM..

Decisions decisions
 
What is the duration @ .050 in the cam your looking at?
What is the target of the build?
I wonder how it would perform on a low compression motor with a set of the 440 source or edelbrock rpm’s?
73 Challenger, auto, 2000 stall 3:23 and a comp cam extreme energy .477 / . 480

Looking at just this here, IMO, I think it will be fine. You can to a large degree match the cams rpm operating hand to the intakes operating rpm band. The closer the match, the better. You can be off 500 rpms without I’ll effects or short comings that will matter much of anything on the street driven cars. Or the in general hopped up mills. It’s not a huge things. It is VERY minor.

The advantage of the rpm is a higher ceiling of performance and no heat cross over which is a plus in the warm weather. If the vehicle gets driven in the cold, the heat cross over is a big plus in drive ability.

Speaking of cool/cold weather driving, you may also want to have a second factory styled air cleaner that has a hot air stove on it for the cold weather. Just Incase you drive it in the cold.

I had a rpm AG on my small block. Sometimes I drove it in way to cold weather. The engine would warm up fine, give heat for the cabin, and think I’m good to go. Wrong! The intake of cold air was so cold it would turn the choke closed in a minute sending idle back up high.
What a pain that was.
 
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Hot street cruiser, maybe some short drives, pump gas.

cam.JPG
 
I'm no expert but it looks with your cam choice, you'd gain some upper end horsepower with the RPM. Is it worth the extra $$$ for a 10hp+ gain to ya?
 
RPM will kill that intake everywhere.

A 1" open spacer on the MP intake will likely run better than direct on top. Cutting the entire divider out, no. Milling 3/8-5/8" of it out, yep.
 
I am looking into hood clearance on my ebody, I know my dart barely fits the RPM on the small block.
 
I am looking into hood clearance on my ebody, I know my dart barely fits the RPM on the small block.
I also have a Challenger with an R/T hood. Although it has more clearance then your tippical A body, you most likely have to use a drop base air cleaner if you use the RPM with a spacer.
 
I ran an MP 284/484 108 degree "Roadrunner' cam in a 340 (almost a Racer Brown ssh225), with very similar specs with a Street Dominator (RPM style) and it rocked. Id use the RPM in a heartbeat.

SSH-25
238@.050
.485@1.5:1 rocker
Demon carb: Speed or Mighty
18-22 initial timing
8.8-10.0 compression
3.73-4.10 gear
2600-3200 stall
 
I would like to add I don't have a big block, I'm assuming the difference in height between the M1 and the RPM would similar to a sb. I'd do some measuring to be sure.
 
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What is the duration @ .050 in the cam your looking at?
What is the target of the build?


Looking at just this here, IMO, I think it will be fine. You can to a large degree match the cams rpm operating hand to the intakes operating rpm band. The closer the match, the better. You can be off 500 rpms without I’ll effects or short comings that will matter much of anything on the street driven cars. Or the in general hopped up mills. It’s not a huge things. It is VERY minor.

The advantage of the rpm is a higher ceiling of performance and no heat cross over which is a plus in the warm weather. If the vehicle gets driven in the cold, the heat cross over is a big plus in drive ability.

Speaking of cool/cold weather driving, you may also want to have a second factory styled air cleaner that has a hot air stove on it for the cold weather. Just Incase you drive it in the cold.

I had a rpm AG on my small block. Sometimes I drove it in way to cold weather. The engine would warm up fine, give heat for the cabin, and think I’m good to go. Wrong! The intake of cold air was so cold it would turn the choke closed in a minute sending idle back up high.
What a pain that was.

I got rid of the choke. and bought a dial back electronic timing tool. Now I just crank in a bunch of timing, and drive away, no warm up required, right down to near freezing temps or a bit below;up here to October 10th, when my registration expires...... But the 10.9 engine always starts right up on a warm day in February, when the itch to hear it hits, with just a splash of gas down the air-horn.
But you are right; I'm geared for 2250@65mph,so I can always feel the heads coming up to temperature, as the car surges ahead, gaining mph on the hiway.Then I know it's time to dial back the timing. This usually takes about 3 miles from dead-cold. I always wanted to make this automatic with a thermo-vacuum relay swapping manifold vacuum to ported at about 150*, but it's only an issue in early spring and late fall, so I'm not lazy......honest,lol. I mean that timing device has been on there since the very early 2000s, and it's just so darn easy to reach over and tweak it.
 
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Oh! Like a MSD dial back timing reostat thing? That would solve a few issues.
 
Oh! Like a MSD dial back timing reostat thing? That would solve a few issues.
I love mine; an old Jacob's. I used it to sneak up on the timings. Making multiple graphs, over time, and numerous changes to the D and the Vcan to co-ordinate them for a DD, for all uses
But there were two situations I could not solve in the D itself.
The first was cruise timing. There just was not near enough at 2250=65mph
And the second was parading. There was just way too much at 550rpm=4mph, with a stick car and a 230* cam; it was a bucking-bronco.
I set the tool in the middle and can retard 8* and advance 7*, and problem solved.

An interesting sidenote is that when sitting at a red light, I can retard the timing from it's usual 14, to 6*, with the rpm falling some 100rpm, to where you can hear the lope., and that's always a hit in the next lane.
Another hit is to put the line lock on, and slip the clutch out, at 1000 or so rpm, and let the tires rotate at a slow rpm waiting for the green.Everybody likes smoke and howling tires. When the tires start to heat up, they start to bite, and then the car starts to do a little dance between bite and slip. That's a bigger hit. When the light turns green I let them blast-off,lol. My car is terrible off the line,60 footing in the mid 2.2s.....I even got spanked by a 350cc motorcycle, for a good long way.
 
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On the hood clearance I have to use a drop base for the dart, I recall reading on one of the forums that there was GM dropbase part number off of a corvette that has a drop base for a holley that works real nice.

I also used that 484 can in a 68 barracuda with a 4spd and 3:91 gears,, lotta fun in that car
 
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