Burnt Wire

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Set the weather Foote down there
Bugman said:
The column you're dealing with is and impact energy absorbing steering column, it is not rigidly mounted anywhere. There are plastic spacers designed to slide and or break away if need be in the event of an accident. I can see one in your pictures. At the bottom that column is surrounded by a rubber weather boot the boot is bolted to the firewall . The column has no mechanical connection to the fire wall. It supposed to be able to move in case of accident
Click to expand...
colum slider.jpg
 
Oh, ok thank you. yeah I accidentally broke two of those plastic things soooo.... I guess i'll die less if i get into an accident.
 
Let's Pretend for the sake of discussion that the plastic slider things are still in place, and except for the ground wire the steering column is electrically isolated. To operate the horn relay and that indicator light bulb only a 3 amp fuse would be needed. So to prevent future failures replace the ground wire with an inline fuse. Just big enough for the light bulb and horn relay. Somehow in the start position electricity is finding a path to ground through that steering column, a blown fuse would prevent this. Are there any wires rubbing against steering column outside under the hood.
 
Disconnect the alt wires & check again for the 40a discharge.
 
Have you got anywhere on the short? There are various "short finders" that consist of "in general" a cycling breaker.........You put this inline and let the breaker sit there and cycle on/ off. I've forgotten what kind of current they draw, but they are supposed to trip at low enough current that they do not burn up wiring.

This causes of course, current to flow in the harness through the shorted area, and the current causes a strong magnetic field. The "kit" usually comes with an indicator which amounts to a compass. You move the indicator around the harness looking for strong/ weak/ no deflection to help localize the short area

One example, these have been around for decades

2524 KD Tools Short Circuit Detector

KDT2524-2.jpg
 
Yes, I went looking for a short along the ignition start wire and i found that near the coil, the wire is exposed and that might be the short. I also saw this sketchy connection to the ground wire and to the body ground that is definitely not stock. So will fix both of these problems and try and start it again.
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I guess I should probably post an update....

So, I got the wire to stop burning and replaced the sketchy body ground with a new wire and made that ground to bare metal and solid.

Now, the only thing thing that happens is the ammeter discharges to -40 when the key is turned to the start position.

I am thinking that it is either the start switch or the ammeter is bad.
 
You need to figure this out. If you unhook the yellow start wire at the start
relay what happens. Does the discharge go away? I doubt the ammeter is "bad" in that sense

Bear in mind THERE HAS BEEN CASES where the igntion switch itself was bad---the contacts inside the switch started to "float around" inside and make odd, unwanted connection. Maybe your start circuit is contacting the metal case of the switch

HOW WOULD YOU confirm?

One way is to disconnect the ignition switch. clip a continuity device to the yellow start wire and ground. Twist key to start and check for short to ground. Then do the same with battery lead to switch and then other sitch leads. Again, do all ths with swtich disconnected

If that does not show up anything. disconnect the yellow start wire at the start relay. With the ignition switch connector also disconnected, check the yellow start wire to ground it should be OPEN

Now do same with brown "bypass" IGN2 wire. Unhook coil + wire. Unhook wires from ballast resistor. Check brown wire for short to ground.
 
67Dart273 said:
You need to figure this out. If you unhook the yellow start wire at the start
relay what happens. Does the discharge go away? I doubt the ammeter is "bad" in that sense

Bear in mind THERE HAS BEEN CASES where the igntion switch itself was bad---the contacts inside the switch started to "float around" inside and make odd, unwanted connection. Maybe your start circuit is contacting the metal case of the switch
Click to expand...

yeah, I was going to drop the column and get inside the of it behind the wheel so I can actually look inside to see the start switch, but i need to pull the steering wheel to do so. That is why I am trying to do everything else first. And I will try and do that with the yellow wire.


I was also going to try and start it with the solenoid under the hood and not with the key to try and narrow it down further.
 
You may not see much of anything and you don't need to do that to check it. All the wires come out the column to the switch connector. The thing is, NONE of the switch wires should show continuity to ground. If they are all clean--and wiggle the sh*t out of the key several times when checking, then you must surely have a heavy load/ partial short on the other wiring

The only circuits coming from the key "that are supposed" to be hot during cranking is the brown bypass IGN2 circuit and the yellow start wire ACC is dead and IGN1 (run) is dead

There have been others on this board, has had switch troubles

Also, if the switch is shorting, this would help explain your burned up wire / ground strap
 
shittyslant6 said:
Now, the only thing thing that happens is the ammeter discharges to -40 when the key is turned to the start position.
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WHY ARE YOU DOING THIS ?
Over 40 amps in those wires IS going to damage something. Probably several things.

We gave you two safe ways to track down the short. One disconnect the battery and use a multimeter or continuity tester.
OR install a lamp in the circuit.
From your earlier post I thought you understood. Specifically this:
shittyslant6 said:
So,
1. put a big lamp in the circuit to limit current so I don't fry anything else.
2. then I put the key in Start position and start looking around for shorts. VR, ballast, etc.
3. If nothing turns up, inspect the start/ign. switch and check for shorts or bad ground.
Click to expand...


shittyslant6 said:
I am thinking that it is either the start switch or the ammeter is bad.
Click to expand...
Its highly unlikely the ammeter. Quick test of the ammeter is to step on the brake, turn on the dome light, or turn on the parking lights. The ammeter will show current flowing out of the battery for any of them. None of them individually draw a lot of current. With side markers the parking lights maybe add up to 5 amps. See how much the needle moves. Then you'll know.

It's possible that its the start switch.
The way to find out is either with a test lamp or a multimeter.
With whichever one you are using doesn't matter.
Disconnect wires one by one until the problem goes away.
I think 67Dart273 suggested begining at the starter relay. That's a logical approach.
 
If you don't have a meter or continuity tester, wire an automotive light bulb into the system.
An 1156 or any single filament bulb you have a socket for.

Then put it in-line so it becomes a restriction.
upload_2021-2-26_15-13-40.png


With that in place you can safely hunt for the short.
 
Mattax said:
WHY ARE YOU DOING THIS ?
Over 40 amps in those wires IS going to damage something. Probably several things.

We gave you two safe ways to track down the short. One disconnect the battery and use a multimeter or continuity tester.
OR install a lamp in the circuit.
Screen Shot 2021-02-26 at 2.46.36 PM.png

This is where the bulb needs to be installed, correct?
Click to expand...
 
ok, i installed an 1157 bulb in the start circuit. the ammeter works becuase when I turn my lights on, it discharges slightly. now looking for shorts with test light.
 
This is where the bulb needs to be installed, correct?

Yes. That's probably the most convenient location. Just make sure all bare metal connections are isolated from grounding.

First test the ammeter's response to the current needed for brake, parking and or dome light.

Then disconnect the battery and add your test/safety lamp.
 
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