Careful with the replacements. I'd get the old heater recored. Cost me about $140 a couple years ago. Plus the cost of the worthless 'replacement' that I didn't use.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/rebuilding-heater-box-replace-core.493297/post-1973902555...
Rebuilt? Do you know if it needs a new core or one of the tanks are damaged?
Yes Glen Ray is the specialist, but '75 a square top and so if you can find a local shop, they should be able to recore.
Between the service manual and the parts book, you'll be pretty well set with numbers and descriptions.
Then you can search for photos etc.
A/C cars with 318 and 340 v-8 s used the same radiator, fan, etc.
Photo here...
'72 Shop manual shows it depending on whether its an A/C equiped car.\
parts book would be the next place to look. The search here, ebay, etc for photos
Do you mean the brown grounding wire? That's attached to a capacitor.
The IVR is inside the fuel gage.
Maybe a small thread-sert can be used.
Marked up from the 67 Supplement.
Acc = power into the regulator (about 14 volts) That's what the capacitor is connected to.
probably should start a different thread.
Explain what you mean by ground screw.
This is the similar '67 Rally dash. Each of the illumination lamps has a ground to the casting.
The casting had a supplementary ground wire that attached to the dash panel where the radio support mounts.
I expect...
That sheet is from the '68 Plymouth Service manual. As you can see my copy is an original but you can get reprints and digital copies. its possible someone built up your radiator using a manual top and a bottom tank for an automatic. Similar idea as when Bob built my car's current radiator...
Spacer depths for non-clutch fans depended on blade width.
Should be room for a correct thermal drive clutch that is the same dimensions as a the factory unit.
Problems come when using the water pumps with the longer snout. But even then with the correct radiator there is room. With a later...
With much difficulty! LOL
The 2947 shorty is definately a choice of last resort. Fortunately I didn't have to go there even with the later water pump and timing cover.
Hayden 2947, Thermal drive.
edited my earlier post again.
Found this:
If my notes are correct, the Hayden catalog showed.
1968-73 340 => 2707 thermal, 17107 non-thermal, 2747 Heavy duty
1968-73 318 => 2706 thermal, 1706 non-therrmal, 2747 Heavy Duty
My typo. That is 2947, see photo.
edit Let me see if I can check the numbers too.
2947 also requries the reducer bushing- which does not fit snug.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fan-clutch-bushing-question.454985/#post-1972846063
It looks like you have the pre-1970 water pump (and timing cover). If so, then there is no need for ultra compact fan clutch.
The notch in the fan blades helps provide additional clearance to the bubble top tanks (correct for a '68)
The catalogs say overall hts, and distance from pulley to...
There's more to heat transfer than just the conductivity of the material. With a vehicle radiator there's the heat exchange of the fluid to the tubes, and then the conduction of the heat through the tubes and the finsm and finally the heat exhange with air. The last is largely convective and...
Well then its not retarded. If anything slightly too much advance under load. So not the cause of overheating.
After those two, then check the temperature difference of the tanks and/or hoses after a drive.
"All in" really means little without the rpm info. Regardless I stand by my earlier posts here. Its a sidetrack.
Investigate the basics first.
Only other basic to add would be to test the cap and system with a pressure tester.
Only thing I want say WRT timing is that based on the info Jim posted, it would seem that the cruise timing ought to tbe close enough that its not the cause of the problem.
When turnin an engine off, its normal for the coolant temperature to rise. This part is normal.
Yes I see fans toss all sorts of stuff from bugs to oil up at the hood. So you're thinking the bugs could not have come through the radiator and A/C condensor ? maybe, maybe not. But even if not...
I do not see any modification.
Slant radiator was set up for hose connections offset to the right.
You say the engine is a 360, with pump inlet on the right. So yes you can get away with using this radiator.
What you realy need is a parts store that has the hoses hanging.
When I got my...
Boiled linseed oil is made from flax seeds. Its a drying oil. Over time the polymers cross link. Hence its use as the binder for paints and varnishes. Not a mineral oil.
Interesting.
Some is same as the next generation boxes.
The three doors shown in the '65 Plymouth FSM
But '66 Dodge FSM has the door under the connecting tubes like my '67 but
1967
This one looks to be the one that shuts off the air intake but controls the amount of outside air allowed...
Well its more than I paid but lots of factors that could effect pricing. Overhead, source of cores, erally setup to do the work vs an interuption to normal business.
Might shop around if there is any other places in reasonable driving distance.
I don't recall at this point but if I didn't mark it I didn't find a use for it.
Longer one goes here
This heater boix had been opened before so its not a pristine untouched example.
This is the way to go. Hands down.
Until you see a new heater core next to an original, or fitted into a heater box that actual fits, assume it doesn't.
I haven't seen proof of anything currently being made that fits correctly.
In fact just the opposite.
Here's photos of one for a 67 in a 67...
Keep in mind that a Chrysler cooling system is an open system.
The cap only pressurizes when vapor builds pressure in the top tank.
The overflow tank, if there is one, is open to atmosphere.
OATs and HOATs work best when given time to build up in a closed system...