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...up out of the hole at ~007; and with an 039 gasket for a Q of .032, using closed chamber alloy heads. The Ica is somewhere in the window of 61>64 *, I'm having a brain-stall, giving me pressure of about 180>185psi. and she is quite happy with 87E10. A big part of the open-chamber issue is...

Yeah, about the alcohol attacking the rubber, that is a known thing. However, the EFI jumpers on my car made it to 23 years. That is to say, the one at the back from tank-sender to the main line, rotted out and the pump started sucking air. On principle, I swapped the front one out, from...

Sweet looking ride.

...better, even 195 briefly, on 87E10 since 1999; with OOTB Edelbrock alloy closed-chamber heads and a Quench between 028 and 032; with a 750DP, and 34* Power-timing, which is all she needs.. Your results may vary. if you do a compression test, on a long-time sitting engine; you gotta do all...

Maybe yes/ maybe no. depends if the yokes are the same, with the same u-joints.

the higher the engine goes, the less oxygen there is to oxidize the fuel, and so the engine loses power. If your 318 pumps 140psi at 100ft elevation, which is not uncommon; then by 4000ft, it will be down to 120psi, and by 8000ft, down to 100psi. But it's the exact same engine. Plus, the higher...

I heard, sometimes, you may need the entire rear end, is that true? IDK.

That was me. Looks like 100 ft or less above sea level/ lucky you, lol.

You know, I see you just itching to spend money with no real idea why your combo is soft. You need to figure a few things out first. number one is to check out your engine; do a compression test. While the plugs are out, look at them! then check the power-timing. then make sure that when you...

Sorry for your loss More sorry for your health. I am just 5 years behind you.

IDK, man: I'm thinking valve job. It'd a turbo car right? Valves don't bend by themselves, and if a valve doesn't close, it only takes seconds to burn a seat. If something went thru there to bend the valve, guess were it is now; Hyup, in the turbo. If the stems are tight, fix it, or you'll be...

and seat sorta looks burned. and the one on the right looks a lil deep too. How about a pic of the piston under it. Did you check the cam timing before the head came off?

...around the block with the bigger ring-gaps, I knew my troubles were over. Over the following weeks I increased the minimum coolant temp to near 200*F. Right soon after that I added a Thermostatic fan clutch to a 7-Blade factory A/C fan, and the engine has run 205>207 by IR gun, ever since. I...

Yes; RTV only. Sometimes there is not enough room, and the cork seals may split. and usually, they make the manifold sit too high to get the bolts started. and if you start fidgeting with the intake, the gaskets may slip out of place. It's just easier to RTV the china walls. But, as mentioned...

...molecules of gasoline as possible, were consumed to make the pressure, leaving as little as possible passing thru unburned. And I run it at 207* minimum water temperature, which is a tool to promote vaporization of the gasoline, on it's way into the chamber at low rpm...

@junkyardhero nailed it in post #2 I wouldn't put a 600 V-sec Holley on anything bigger than a 273. Ok wait; I tuned one of those buggers lean and it made 40mpg Canadian on my near 200psi 367 , cruising 75= 1850 rpm, in overdrive, so there's that. But it sucked in standard tune on same...

When you rotate the driveshaft in reverse rotation, the rear sprag locks up, which then forces the sunshell to rotate thru the rear planetary; that's where the additional force comes from. Whereas in normal rotation, the output shaft spins freely with the planetaries, and the slipping clutch...

I've had my share of them, while my babies were in carseats and such. And they made great learner-cars for the kids.

I did not know that!

The hole doesn't absolutely have to be as big as shown; 1) it just makes it easier to install the shifter parts after the trans is in. and 2) easier to remove the cover if you need to replace broken forks. 3) but honestly, if you pop the distributor cap, and unbolt the crossmember, the back of...

...Canada, is too thick...... even in summer. I'm with the guy that mention your oil-gallery plug, BUT you could have multiple problems, like; your oil pump relief valve is stuck open, or the oil-pump drive is in the middle of taking a dump. or somehow, your 90* filter housing is making...

Did you know? that LA rocker shafts have to be correctly clocked and that 318 rockers are different from 340s, and among all of those are lefts and rights, and when installing a high-lift cam, you gotta check the rocker to retainer clearance, and the pushrod to p-rod tunnel clearance. Oh and if...

Yeah well considering they they are said to be upside down, it's a supernatural that they flush at all.

Hyup 198s in my dash too.

The step headers will be fine I have those on my 400hp 360/4-speed

Yikes on the price, Maybe I'll have to dig one of mine out.

I watch it unfold every day.

I was an alignment man for a few years. What I ran into is that, on Mopes, when I installed NEW MOOG cambolts into the upper Control arms, did the alignment, tightened them up, and was ready to send it, here's what happened; When I backed off the machine and applied the brakes, I heard a bang...

As a streeter, with a 367/4-speed car, I can tell you that, each of the three cams that have been in my 367, ranging from 223* to 249*@050, were perfect for at least the first summer. That's almost a 4-size range. My secret, is keeping the Cylinder Pressure nearly the same between each...

...2200rpm Your personal ability to modify your distributor is what will make or break your quest, not rpm. What I mean is that if your engine wants 56* of cruise-timing@ 2400rpm, you need to figure that out and how to make it happen. But if it wants 40* at 1600, you gotta make that happen too...