Valiants with V8s

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Over the decades I have had many and and all flavors of Mopar engines and car models, and I have loved them all for what they were.

Power per $, hard to beat a decent small block. Best v8 mileage (highway) was 18 (doing 75 and up from Ca. to Mo.) in a 67 383 Cuda 4 speed with 2.94 gears. Best slant was 25 or slightly better (highway doing 55) 4 speed OD in a Duster/ Probably 3:23 gears.

Solution: have 3 Valiants, 1 SB, 1 BB and 1 slant!! Enjoy life~~~
 
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Hi everyone.

Had a question about the 1968 Valiant. Were they available with the 273? I don't think I've ever seen one. I'd like to find a 68 Valiant with a 273 if they are available, but would a warmed up 6 be just as good? A have a Valiant now with a 6 and it's slow as a dog.

Thanks everyone.
Put a 2800 convertor on that slanty; That will wake her right up, and for low dollars. and
for the icing on the cake, add some mid-3 series gears, at least 3.23s, in the back.
More stall means less rear gear is required, at least in first gear. The quite wide 1-2 TorqueFlite split of 59%, means second gear will always be a bit of a stretch, no matter what rear gear is used. But, it can be minimized by making Second gear, your go-to gear..... which will make First-gear a bit of a rocket, but such is life, lol.
That's what I have done, and was never sorry.

Another thing I have done, is put a 340 in a 65 Wagon. Hyup that was a real blast.

but, just about any SBM will make your 68 a fun car. The bigger the engine-choice, the less stall and gear is required.
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This works both ways. For fuel economy, you can gear the V8s down to idle down the hiway; yet have better than slanty performance off the line.
To that end, I once put a 318/273 top end and cam, into a 340, with what I thought was funtastic results. I would totally do it again, but this time, with an overdrive trans, and big fat rear tires..

BTW
For best fuel-economy at low-rpm, there is a limit of how low an rpm you can go, and still get enough ignition timing, with the factory timing controls; at which point, instead of fuel-economy going up, it will go down.
There is no good reason to gear for 65=1400 rpm, if the combo makes best fuel mileage at 65= 2200rpm
Your personal ability to modify your distributor is what will make or break your quest, not rpm.
What I mean is that if your engine wants 56* of cruise-timing@ 2400rpm, you need to figure that out and how to make it happen. But if it wants 40* at 1600, you gotta make that happen too.
The 225 has a modest bore size , and a generous stroke, perfect candidates for generating good fuel-economy numbers, with a reasonable amount of take-off torque. It was a great idea, but from the factory, it always lacked decent cylinder pressure to pull it off.
I twice, pumped the Scr up on my 225s to 9.5, and it was well worth the change. Of course I also modified the distributors, and changed the gearing, and re-stalled them. On one combo, I installed a 2.45 rear gear, and a lock-up 904. Oh yeah, that one was a lil soft on the get-go, but she was a hi-way car, and a fuel-sipper. The other got the 2800 and 3.23s. It still did fairly well on the hiway, but it was a Second-gear sweetheart.

The best way that I have found, to get the timing really close, is with a stand-alone, dash-mounted, timing control. Mine has a range of 15*.
I modify my distributors to what I suppose will work, bolt it in, and roadtest. Yes it may take all summer to dial it in with multiple in-outs and it really is a PITA on slantys. But the end-result has always been so worth it.

BTW-2
I would NOT be afraid of installing a 360LA.
But, I would first pump up the Scr with a tight-Q. Then I would regear it with a 2.20/2.45 rearend, and give it a lock-up trans...... and fix the daymn timing. and then I would stall it up a lil if necessary.
These 360s got a bad rap in the economy department, but really the thing that killed it for them was the low Scr and open-chamber heads. Fix those two, and I have gotten fantastic fuel economy out of them. Yes it will cost a few thousand dollars to make it happen. But in the end, it will rival your EFI car. Over the life of the vehicle, you will get the cost of the engine mods back, many times over, in the fuel savings alone. Drive it 12,000 miles a year, and in two or at most three years, you may already have broken even.
Going up a few gear sizes, will flip the coin to performance, with no other changes in your 68Valiant which is a lightweight car.
And from there, you can easily take it to warrior status with bolt-ons. But it all begins with the Hi-compression/tight-Q design.
And yes, at this early stage, you can bias the combo to one side or the other, performance versus economy, and even to do both! a thing which is gonna be more difficult with a shorter stroke SBM.
For me, 360s are like potatoes at suppertime. You can dress them up in a myriad of ways, and potatoes always taste great. You can even pretty them up with add-ons, and I will never tell my wife; you know darlin' I think I woulda liked rice today; NEVER!
 
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Also consider fuel economy if you drive it a lot. I have/had 3 small blocks built to nice daily drivers specs too. They all got less than 14 MPG.. the built slant gets no less than 18 MPG. Make a big difference for me when it is a 130 mile round trip to get to any car show.
None of my MODERN vehicles get more than 17, and my daily driver truck gets 12...if im gentleb

14 MPG is just fine by me
 
With the price of motor oil today, maybe we should be talking about what engines don't leak oil instead of gas mileage!!!! :BangHead: :poke: :thumbsup:
 
With the price of motor oil today, maybe we should be talking about what engines don't leak oil instead of gas mileage!!!! :BangHead: :poke: :thumbsup:
That was one of the reasons i went with a gas engine instead of a diesel when it was time to get a new truck
 
That was one of the reasons i went with a gas engine instead of a diesel when it was time to get a new truck
Yep my 95 Ram 12 valve Cummns takes what darn near what? 3 gal of oil but it will run a million miles pulling rigs. but the body will fall apart before that! Heck its filter is some bucks but other day O Really wanted $12 and change plus tax for an oil fiter for my gas cars!!! BUT my 95 Ram will out last me and its a classic now,,, antique insurance!!!!! :steering: :BangHead:
 
With the price of motor oil today, maybe we should be talking about what engines don't leak oil instead of gas mileage!!!! :BangHead: :poke: :thumbsup:
That's why I haven't bought the oil change for my recent purchase...2001 National Tradewinds with a Cat 3126. Diesel generator needs service as well...
 
That's why I haven't bought the oil change for my recent purchase...2001 National Tradewinds with a Cat 3126. Diesel generator needs service as well...
Heck conventioal 15-40 Rotella is cheaper than WalMart crap oil!!!! I was hunting some today and Wally was OUT of that Rotella, and I found some at Tractor Supply same price as friggin Wally!!!
 
Heck conventioal 15-40 Rotella is cheaper than WalMart crap oil!!!! I was hunting some today and Wally was OUT of that Rotella, and I found some at Tractor Supply same price as friggin Wally!!!
I can get the Rotella 5 gal bucket for $82 (Wally and O'Reilly match) or I can get 6 1-gallon containers at Costco for $80. Plus the gallon containers are gonna be easier to handle. It's the filters that are gonna cost a bunch...
 
Yep my 95 Ram 12 valve Cummns takes what darn near what? 3 gal of oil but it will run a million miles pulling rigs. but the body will fall apart before that! Heck its filter is some bucks but other day O Really wanted $12 and change plus tax for an oil fiter for my gas cars!!! BUT my 95 Ram will out last me and its a classic now,,, antique insurance!!!!! :steering: :BangHead:
Thats why i got rid of my old plow truck (05 f350)
I think i posted pictures last year when i was running wires for the rear plow...i didnt even need to drill a hole, just shove them in where the cab corner used to be
 
It's not always about how fast or quick something is, but how much fun it is.
A warmed up slant can be fun. Fuel economy was a strong point with them and warming them up does not drastically hurt that as long as you do not build too wild.
Keep the 6 for something a bit different.
A guy in Calgary has a 41 Dodge with a warmed 225. He got a manifold for two stock carbs but runs two GM throttle body injection units on it. Definately different.
 
Had a 1965 4 door Dart 270 with the \6 and 3 on the tree, 2.76:1 open rear. Dead stock it got 26 MPG driving 35 miles one way from Auburn WA to Ft Lewis WA. Regular pump gas.

Engine mods started with milling 0.060" off the head and pocket ported to remove the garbage. Back cut all the valves and "Power Rings" cut into the intake valves. Delta Cam regrind the cam to 260 degrees. Split the stock iron exhaust manifold and brazed 2 inch pipes, 36 inches long to a Y and the 2.25 inch pile out to the left infront of the wheel. Reworked the Dizzy to work with a "Carter Carb's" dash timing advance unit.

This made the \6 much more fun and friendly. No it was not as fast as our 65 Barracuda (18 MPG) but the fun factor was there and it would bury the 120 MPH speedo. And the MPG went up when the timing was advances, around 32 MPG. But it required mid grade pump gas now.

But I had also done a few body mods too. Modified a front Chin Spoiler from a Duster and sealed the opening in the lower valance below the bumper. Ran 1 windshild wiper. No radio antenna. Removed all weight I could like the rear seat, replaced spare tire with a can of fix-a-flat, no jack. It was just a commuter car.

But a warmed over 318 0.30" over and 9.25:1 CR with Eldy Performer 318 manifold and Carter 625 CFM AFB, 252 degree cam, Pocket ported heads with 360 1.88" valves, 340 iron ex, and a single over the axel 2.25 pipe in my 65 Barracuda with 2.76 gears got 24 MPG and was VERY FUN.
 
Had a 69 valiant with a 318 and 13 inch tires Backin the day. It was a tire smoking beast just stock with those little tires. Would surprise a lot of people.
 
Yes, they were EXCEPT Barracudas. Smallest V8 in a '68 or '69 Barracuda was a 318 which makes no sense since the Dart GT could be had with a 273 in those years. Also, all 273s in 1968 and 1969 were two barrel with hydraulic lifters.


Were the 68 and 69 Valiants and Darts also available with both the 273 AND 318 or just the 273 for the V-8 option???

I had a 69 Valiant with a factory 273 2 bbl...
 
Also consider fuel economy if you drive it a lot. I have/had 3 small blocks built to nice daily drivers specs too. They all got less than 14 MPG.. the built slant gets no less than 18 MPG. Make a big difference for me when it is a 130 mile round trip to get to any car show.


I built a 318 to moderate specs with a 4 bbl and dual exhaust and 2.76 gear that got 17.75 MPG on the highway regularly... It can be done...
 
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67 Valiant/Signet 170, 225, 273-2, 273-4
67 Dart - 170, 225, 273-2, 273-4, 383
68/69 Valiant/Signet - 170, 225, 273, 318
68 Dart - 170, 225, 273, 318, 340, 383 (426)
69 Dart - 170, 225, 273, 318, 340, 383


Alan
 
Mpg per unit of performance (e.t., 0-60, etc..) Eg. a NA 13s 170 vs 273 vs 440.
I bet the larger displacements might have the slight upper hand in mpg but overall be similar.
 
Mpg per unit of performance (e.t., 0-60, etc..) Eg. a NA 13s 170 vs 273 vs 440.
I bet the larger displacements might have the slight upper hand in mpg but overall be similar.
Too small an eng
Mpg per unit of performance (e.t., 0-60, etc..) Eg. a NA 13s 170 vs 273 vs 440.
I bet the larger displacements might have the slight upper hand in mpg but overall be similarengine
Too small an engine can be working hard requiring fuel enrichment and economy drops. Big blocks from the muscle car era tended to have a lot of gear which caused high cruising RPM, lik 3500. Not good for economy. With 2.75 to 3.08 gears, 20MPG on the highway was possible.
The small engines function with a bit more gear. The Mazda Miata Series 1 with the 1.6l engine all had 4.3 gears. Then the 1.8l engine brought in a 4.1 ratio, the 4.3, a 3.909 and in Europe a 3.63 gear. Different models and markets.
 
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It's not always about how fast or quick something is, but how much fun it is.
Correct!! Someone’s definition of “fun” may be someone else’s “meh”. As long as YOU are happy with it, that’s all that matters
 
Just as long the individual knows beforehand that un ported they'd be lucky to make 200 hp and fully built NA 300 ish hp if that's acceptable then I'm all for it, build a /6.
 
RRR, Right ! I built my beater 63 Belvedere LA 318 car out of many left over parts. Some new,some used.
It may not be for the masses but it good enough for me.
 
Most of the early \6 can be over bored 0.100" to 3.50". Direct Connection had a stroker crank too so 242 CI was do'able. Finding a 3.50" piston may be tough.

But still, the biggest bang for the $$$ is to mill the head 0.060" and port it some. As cast the ports are very rough and core shifted so just port the pockets and blend the ports and you will see (Butt Dyno) some good gains.

But since we are talking swapping a V8 into a 68 Valiant with a \6, most info is in the above posts above. Finding correct exhaust manifolds to fit, motor mounts and oil pans, throttle linkage, kick down linkage or Z-Bar for clutch....... Good luck.

I'd just make sure the bottom end is solid, deck the block and head square, some ARP head bolts and Main bearing cap bolts and put a Turbo on with 7-10 PSI. Easy 225 HP anytime you flex that right ankle. Lots of room for a turbo and intercooler.

\6's have oiling issues. A lot of windage oil splashing around so a deeper sump and pickup tube helps. Put a scraper bar inside the pan too.
 
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