Search results for query: won't start cranking

I decided to go fill up the 68 Dart for the trip to Carlisle. I turned the key and it just kept cranking without starting. As soon as I turned the key back to run it started. Anybody ever have this issue? Any advice? Thanks FABO.

Not to sound harsh, but seriously? =1&c[nodes][0]=54&o=relevance"]Search results for query: won't start cranking Four pages of hits on the first search.

I did a couple searches. I have been using this site for years. Good luck with your thread policing duties.

My fave is when it won't start until you let off the key from the cranking position. Check the ignition switch down to the starter switch, ballast to box.

I have a 1972 D200 that I installed a Pertronix Digital HP ignition system on along with Summit billet (mag pickup) distributor. I have an issue where the voltage to the wire that tells the box to turn "on" sometimes drops below the minimum voltage during cranking. Oftentimes if I crank the...

I’m digging this thread out of the grave. Anyone using these here? Antigravity batteries. H7/Group-94R Lithium Car Battery There was a discussion the other day about battery location. With one of these located under the rear / passenger side seat in a frenched in box would be ideal. They look...

I know alot of these get posted but here it goes... Car started right up and ran fine for about 5 minutes and then just stopped. Engine will crank, but will occasionally try to start when I return key to run. I am getting power to coil when cranking and when in the run position. I have checked...

I think it’s a switch issue because randomly, the car will go to the “start” position of the ignition and not crank. no click. no noise. do not pass go. Happens at the worst of times too. The first time it happened I took the ignition out of the keyhole, wiggled it around, and it started working...

Then it should start and run in the start position. You're losing voltage on ign1 somehow. Simple enough to check. GO out and HOLD the key in start and see if it runs. It won't hurt to keep the starter engaged long enough to see. I mean seriously dude, WTF? All you gotta do is turn the effin...

Try holding the key in START and see if it starts up and runs. It won't hurt it for just a couple of seconds. If it starts with the key all the way in START and will not keep running when you release the key, put a ballast resistor on it.

I've been having this issue for about a month. First time it happened I played with the car on a Saturday with no issues, started it many times. Sunday it wouldn't start but it has always cranked over. When I would stop cranking it hinted at starting. It did this over and over. I hot wired...

Sorry, yes it cranks over but doesn't want to run Yes its cranking over, just doesnt want to run, it appears the previous owners did the bypass already too, t Found the "fusible link" literally just a butt connector

No idea what may be causing the short, but start with "what you did." You may have mis-wired someting OR THE NEW ALTERNATOR may be defective. Disconnect it. Let's get some definitions: "Cranking" or "cranking over" or "turn over" This means the engine rotates when the key is twisted...

Mattax, I got 9 volts at the steering column connecter while cranking, but 10.5 on the other side in the engine bay for the same circuit by backprobing while cranking. Unless I had measurement error when I got '0' resistance 2 days ago in this same circuit, I don't understand. On your voltage...

But my guess is that your problem is gonna end up being a fuel issue. Usually a hot-start issue can be traced to the engine being rich..... and your fine cold-start sorta points to that..... but we don't know a thing about how your choke is set. But since you say your carb has fuel, it could...

Also I have about 10 degree of timing in at idle

So right now the only tuning was done by me…and the idle mixture screws are all 1/2 way out. That’s what the vacuum gauge wanted to be in the green at idle. She definitely smells rich. So from what I am gathering your saying I would mess with the curb idle speed screw on the throttle? Also if...

No. IGN1 is hot in "run." It goes DEAD in "start" IGN2 is only hot in "start." Why? Because when you twist the key to "start" and if there was no IGN2, the coil would see battery at cranking voltage minus the drop through the ballast = VERY low coil voltage in "start"...

Initially I think the guys above suggesting bad battery cables or clamps are correct, but you need to define "everything dies" When you hit the key...does all power go away, and it's as if the battery isn't even in the car? No horn....no sniper power...no lights.. nothing Or... Is it...

So I'm not an electrical person and I don't have an electrical tester thing, but I know how to buy parts and switch them out lol. When my car is cold it starts up just fine, drives perfectly without missing a beat. After driving it for a bit and it gets "hot," (temp guage only says 180)...

OK only other thing you need is what is the BATTERY voltage when cranking? Or hook your meter to the same place above, and instead of ground, to battery plus. Crank and read. This will give you the voltage drop in that circuit. if it won't start/ run with 10.89 I'm quickly out...

Ok, so today I removed the ECU and using a dremel removed any paint around the screw holes. I removed the plug from the ballast resistor and noticed they're very "white", don't think it it should be like that. I'll post a picture below. Yes I did considered flooding but definitely isn't...

Starting at the battery itself I get 10.8v when cranking. I followed this (red wire) all the way to the ignition switch which also reads 10.8v when cranking. Then I went to the brown wire on the ignition switch which read 9v when cranking. Which is the same reading I am getting at the coil +...

Finally got to the point of starting my 73 Duster. 318, with factory ignition and ECU. I have a 4 pin ballast and also a 4 pin ECU. It only gets spark in the RUN position. Nothing in the START position. Am I missing something? I thought that a 4 pin ecu needed a 2 pin ballast, and a 4 pin...

I completed the jumper wire from the starter relay stud to the coil+, same result. Tried to fire but won't start. Did some more testing with my volt meter and found that the starter relay stud reads battery voltage/11.9v until I start/crank then it drops to 8.5v. So I thought the starter relay...

Hi FABO Mopar Gurus, I did a forum search and found some interesting bits but, not my specific problem. Such as Smokinnjokin's thread. So here's the setup: 340 with OEM distrbutor. New pickup coil (280 ohms according to my meter) New HEI module (activated by a relay) Blaster 2 coil. (.7 ohms...

When cranking the engine, current flows to the coil without going through the ballast resistor. So the voltage difference from 10.9 to 9.4 is either in the wiring or the ground. ECU should be wired like this, except 63 won't have a fusible link and some other minor differneces. During start...

I'm pretty sure or confident the ignition issue (power to the coil while cranking) is resolved. The wiring on the Valiant is really hacked that badly were the entire harness needs replacing. There has been someone fooling around, spliced and piecing together a few ignition wires in the harness...

That sounds like the battery is dead or one or more of your battery cables/ connections is bad. You have to learn to test as if you are driving down the road. Let's say your battery cable goes from battery post----to battery clamp---to cable----to starter relay---to battery...