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What I would do is start disconnecting linkage parts until I found what was holding it open. If I didn’t find it doing that I would make sure the throttle plates inside the carb were centered when closed.

They normally use 2 part epoxy to seal those plugs. Kind of a common problem really.

So pour a little fuel down it’s throat and see if it fires off. Nothing about the alternator is going to keep it from running except a dead short, and you would know it if that was the case. You would have an electrical fire.

Believe it or not the Edelbrock carbs are more prone to heat soak because of where the bowls are.

This Holley YouTube video is pretty good for beginning basics. I’m a pretty strong believer in not flooding someone with information. Happens way too much on here. I can post more informative stuff when needed.

Sounds like you have the cooling equipment to do what you want so far for the most part. Does your fan stick out of the shroud at all? About 50 percent of the blades not inside the shroud makes a big difference in airflow. It will still pull through the whole radiator, but more because the air...

GET ONE! :D They help quite a bit with hot fuel issues. Engine heat travels right up into the carb metal.

Absolutely agree on concentrating on the heat levels first, as that is your most important issue. It gets just a hair over 100 where I am, but I sometimes drive through Needles and Death Valley on my way to the beach. BTW, my fuel lines are wrapped 3/8 fuel injection nylon 12 all the way from...

Yea I know, couldn’t care less about tracks. Super reliable driver was the goal building this car, and it has been. Well, until Classic Auto Air got involved. Now all the trust has to be re earned. :D

Note that I am in AZ. I run a Holley 770 on my magnum. 3/8 lines up and back for a return system with both lines routed up the corner of the firewall and inner fender insulated then across to attach to a flipped backwards dual fuel feed hard line. My return T is right before the hard line that...

Or to open a whole new can of worms.

I like to start diagnosing at the simple and inexpensive stuff first. Check your distributor pickup gap at .008 (a dollar bill folded in half is .008) Also check your distributor to harness connection. Heat expands things, and I have seen both of these cause no start/restart issues when hot.

Every line and filters from the sending unit to the carb needs to be checked. Then pull the sender and check it as well. If you have no air leaks in the line, then it almost has to be the fuel pump. (Which by the way may be dumping fuel into the crank case if it can get air in the circuit) Not...

Yes on lubing the o rings. Blow through all the passages with compressed air after the soak and rinse, vaseline the gaskets and put them back together the way they came apart. Start with 1.5 turns out on the idle mixture screws. That’s really about it. Make sure the gaskets you use match the...

Not once has it ever shown any indication of needing to vent beyond the PCV. Good question though.

Simple yet effective PCV

I have to agree on the Eddie recommendation. Perfect for the described driving style.

It finally occurred to me that the motor wasn’t hiccuping and stalling or popping back through the intake. It was a sudden on/off thing. Then I finally realized the lean reading was from unburned oxygen. I always carry a spare 8 pin module in the trunk in my little accessory box, so I swapped...

Some time back I was driving along down around Phoenix and my car started missing. I looked at the AFR gauge and it read 19:1 or some such nonsense. (Way lean) Ok, failing fuel pump so I stopped and picked up another pump in case I had to swap it out somewhere less convenient, but it ran fine on...

I occasionally have to shoot a little lube down my cable, as it gets a little sticky. I just pinch the tube of the PB together with the carb end of the cable housing with my fingers and give it a 2-3 second shot and it’s fine again for 6 months or so. It dribbles a bit, so put a rag under it...

You might see very little pressure when cranking because the return is bleeding it off. Betcha see pressure running.

Yep, that’s a bowl vent alright. To make things look complete I would run a vacuum hose off that along the valve cover to the back of the motor and leave it at that. Best looking simplest solution I think.

Obviously the right way is best if it makes you feel better, but you could literally hose clamp a wire to the sender and ground it to the body or metal line either one. As already mentioned there’s a dang good chance the sender is already grounded via the straps and or trunk floor, but I...

That’s a good one. I had a friend who sent his wife from the field to the house for an extension cord and told her to plug it in for 10 minutes then plug the ends together to save the electricity to bring to him. She did it. She also came in one day and told him the car wouldn’t move. She said...

Oh I’m sorry. Did you guys want to see that part? :D

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCNslu2N14n-2blPYpbYfHSg Thanks in advance for checking out my junk. Like and subscribe if’n ya don’t mind.

That’s exactly what I said.:D I did see it on its way down between the fan and water pump, so I knew about where it went. Got the new ones delivered a few minutes ago.

Brass and I did use a flashlight.

I found out it’s a bad idea to drop your non screw in air bleed for your Holley in the gravel driveway.:D I was doing some fine tuning on the high speed air bleeds and one shot out of the hemostats and disappeared in the 3/4 inch boulders. I thought it landed in a 3x3 foot area somewhere, but I...

The 1405 is a richer running carb and more designed for performance. The 1406 is a leaner running daily driver type carb. I’ll answer your PM in a bit here.