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Lol, this was 1/4 mile, B-body Dart, with a 426 hemi grafted in. I knew he solved the issue, didn't hear the cause . Prob 2nd gear shift. Thanks.

Just get a shaft longer than you need, then cut it when sure .

Always wondered why those tailshaft housings broke .

With the small front bearing and a worn trans, - 3rd gear deflection where the shafts meet, loose clearances, 3 fat friends, it adds up.

If you try to break it, you will . 4 fat friends in the car dropping the clutch at 4k, good chance.

I think where that was going, that us not knowing the type/limits of the shifters travel, and without the pin to give max front/back movement, is it possible that the rod adjusters moved a twist or two, and won't allow enuff lever travel to be totally/sufficiently in 2nd gear, causing it to jump...

Just slide the nuts back so you're clamping to the tube, not the nut. Good luck .

Those clamp things aren't made/intended to hold pressure, trust me, I had a coupla sets. They are fine to plug the lines while the rad is out (for repair)to stop drips/leaking on the floor. Looping the lines with a hose and clamps will hold the pressure. (Demolition Derby tested, lol) Cheers

Here's a thread for a similar install, including some issues that might occur. Some may be helpful, some not, but give you an idea what's involved, Cheers https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/help-adjusting-%E2%80%9867-904-console-floor-shifter.554686/

My valve body is like that. It has been modified to a reverse manual valve body, and the throttle pressure lever isnt used in this particular case. The shaft you show doesn't appear to have had a lever on it for a while because of the rust. If you can talk to the previous owner, or someone who...

You need to take the side-cover off and inspect the gears condition, find out what else is missing, and identify which gears-set is in there. After 50+ years anything could be in there, the stamped #s aren't reliable. I have changed the guts out of many broken cases, for whatever good case is on...

It'll be really noisy for a while. The roller bearings will likely be as rusty/pitted as the gears, they'll create heat and boom. You're buying the case only, and not the preferred one either. Good luck. jmo

Smell the engine oil, a wiped thrust bearing burns the oil.

I can't answer that directly, but I do know that I had to mess with the depth of the switch a couple of times, they seem to be different. I ended up using a Holley power valve gskt ( thick ) to get the switch to activate correctly, both times were a 3 pin switch. Good luck .

Fortunately those filters are very efficient, and prob kept the tiny chit outta the valve body. They're easy to rebuild, if you are at all mechanically inclined, and drink beer. Good luck

The first pic shows yellow shifter in blue "P" gate 2nd pic shows 1 gate 3rd pic shows N You often have to unscrew the knob a few turns to get enuff down travel of the yellow piece to get over to the P gate .

I don't think you are getting the complete travel cuz the shifter button won't let the shift lever move all the way into the "P" position, as I mentioned earlier. In the description above, it seems you don't get to P in forward position, your description describes starting the shifter gates in...

The bottom support is often shortened for header clearance and doesn't affect shift pattern in my experiences.

I've run into similar when replacing 904s with 727, I just took the lever off the 904 that came out ,. . . ? ?

Have you got the shifter button screwed on to the correct position to allow full travel of the actual shifter lever. See the gates and button release lever at bottom of shifter. If the button is screwed too far down, or not enuff, you may not be getting full shifter travel, ? ? I know you say...

If you have headers, some require slightly shortening the lower rear mount that Dana has marked "orange B" in first pix. post 23. Just for clearance cuz of header .

I think you'll find they're hardened steel, but cut, - overlap, temporarily use vicegrips to help determine nec length, weld , has worked .

You need the lever that was on the trans the shifter came from. As mentioned, there are different lengths of lever, and I agree you need a shorter one. If you have the old trans, or know where it is, go get the lever . Sorry for the delay, I had to take a few weeks off .

I've known people (me) to smack the yoke with a hammer and accidentally move/bend the shield. Once bent, they do make a great frisbee across the yard . lol "Parasitic Weight" removal. Not Recommended Service Procedure .

If you replaced the seal only, and left the bearing cone and pinion in the housing, then the likelihood of having a shim fall out of place are slim to none. Is it possible you dropped or otherwise managed to shift the dust shield on the yoke, if so, move it back into position, away from the...

I'd be looking for an exhaust pipe touching frame/body somewhere. And the usual request for a video please , Silly how we all sent our crystal balls out for detailing at the very same time, sheesh .

Center pin is to ground the neutral/park start spade on the relay by the battery. Outer pins are b/up switch (either way), that's the one, the # of turns will affect switch on/off, operation, spacer rather than other switches or trans combs was my solution, thick power valve gasket. Good luck

There is a difference in switches that make it nec to mess with the sender depth into trans. This thread may help, but others will chime in. One alternative suggests diss-assembly, thicker gaskets avoid that. Good luck. will check back later...

Blasted the caps off .

My crystal ball needs a good video clip of the noise , Or golf clubs in the trunk was common .