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You actually need to bend it up.I just did this with my Valiant. there used to actually be a tool that hooked on the striker somehow that woul allow you to pry the door up into place. the option I used was a block of wood and a floor jack under the bottom of the door (not the bottom lip!) and...

I need a passenger fender for my 68 Valiant. I know the marker lights change for different years, but is the basic fender the same from67 to 76 a bodies? I can weld the side marker shut and put a hole back in for the round marker without too much trouble as long as the rest of the fender is the...

I would like to trade even up a 5.0 torqueflite shift lever for either a 3.8 or a 4.2.

I went through something very similar to this. I tried different valve body's swam in trans fluid many times, smoked the band etc. I ended up putting a different dipstick in it and found out I was low on fluid the whole time. Some A hole threw a dipstick from who knows what in it before I got...

Welcome! You will find a lot of helpful people here. I am new here myself!

I have manual disc set up from a Volare on a 68 Valiant and it works great. I personally see no need for power brakes on a light car like that with the disc setup.

Actually the tape measure is supposed to be loose on the end to compensate for the thickness of the hook when you hook it on something or push it flat against something when you measure. If I remember correctly my housing was cut down before I got it and it was 52 3/8 and I had axles cut by...

Take the block out and forget about it. You don't need it with green bearings.

I don't have any pics right now but I will get some when we get started. It is at lest a month out right now.

Those things are notorious for intake leaks.

Thanks for the kind words! It is not the first or last decision influenced by beer, but in this case anyway it was probably a good thing. My buddy leans toward the bodywork and I lean more toward the mechanical. After this is done, I will be helping him on a 1960 Plymouth 2dr wagon. He did the...

Haven't been on here for a while because a buddy of mine pushed me into getting a little more carried away on the Valiant than I initially intended.Amaizing how easy a job seems when you are drinking beer! Made some quarter patches, my buddy is doing the main bodywork and I am painting it with...

I was told you can run the green bearings without the inner seals, but I installed new inner seals anyway when i put mine together. I figured if anything gets past the first seal the o-ring on the green bearing would take care of it.

You do not have to take the pin out at all unless it or the balls are worn. The factory service manual shows how to do it. If I had to rebuild the ball and trunion, I would do the u-joint conversion, but if it is just the boot, it is not that difficult.

I sent some c-body axles to Moser and they cut & resplined them for me. I also had them install new Green Bearings. I think the whole thing cost about $225 if I remember right.

I replaced one of those when I had my 59. The service manual I had said to work it around the pin and through the housing. If I remember correstly they also specified the amount of grease to avoid throwing off the balance. It really wasn't that bad of a job.

The only place I found that said they had them is JC Whitney. I have never had good luck with JC Whitney so I never bought any. As far as I can tell the Valiant is more squared off behind the rear wheel than the Dart. My wheel lips are good so I think I will just make some patches for the bad...

I have an older vesion of that welder and have welded MILES of wire with it! I absolutely love it. It is made by the same company that makes Miller and many perts interchange. I had a Century welder years ago and it was a giant POS!. You will not be dissapointed.

Nice to see some South Dakota Mopar Guys. I live in Centervile which has a lot of MOPARS for the size of the town!

I joined awhile ago but havn't posted much. I have had a lot of good answers for the questions I posted. I grew up a Mopar fan but dont have the coin for the high end stuff. Right now I am having a blast just playing around with my 68 Valiant 100 I bought just under 2 years ago. I had to weld...

Thanks guys!

What do you guys recommend using in a 904 street/strip trans. Fairly mild motor . I am going to freshen mine up this winter and I have been using type F, but would like opinions.

The car looks better in the pictures than it was in real life. Fun car though.

These are listed as 70 and up a body I believe. What would be the differance and what issues may I run into putting them in a 68 Valiant. Manual steering, 360, 904 /6 torsion bars and k frame.

I'm glad I asked! Thanks for the info guys! This site is awsome!

I have a used set of super comps for a small block. I hate exhaust leaks and I have not owned any headers with slip tubes before. Do I put some high temp silicone on the slip tube connection or does that increase the possiblility of rusting at that connection?

Used to be /6 3 on the tree. I welded the linkage in place at the bottom of the collumn and put my tach on the shifter mount. Sorry about the dusty dirty pics but you get the idea.

With the throttle at idle and pulling forward on the rod, the rear end of the slot should touch the pin on the carb. In your picture it looks like it is adjusted completely opposite of that.

If your band adjustment was too loose, the band strut can actually fall out and cause a loss of 2nd gear. Not a big deal, but you will need to drop the pan and valve body and check the front band aply linkage. If that looks good you can test the operation of the band with about 40lbs of air...