Mikes270dart
Well-Known Member
How do you replace the boot on a Ball and Trunnion driveshaft. I have a NOS mopar boot. how much of the driveshaft do i have to dissassemble?
Ball and trunnion boot replacement
- Thread starter Mikes270dart
- Start date
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Inertia
Well-Known Member
You'll need a press,.. take the end plate off, then slide the big outside thingy back, being careful to catch the little caps on the ends of cross shaft, then carefully (without losing any of the needle bearings) slide the balls off the cross shaft.. The cross shaft is then pressed out of the driveshaft. Pull the trunion off the driveshaft, clean everything up, and assemble in reverse, being absolutely sure to centre the cross shaft, and be aware of any very small shims behind the balls, and the end pieces.. grant
grimreaper
Cross Member
I have successfully squeezed them in and around with the cross pin still in place. It takes a lot of time and you have to be very careful to not puncture the boot but it can be done. (Bystanders should wear earplugs if they are offended by foul language) I have since purchased a press and follow Inertia's suggestions.
65cudalover
Well-Known Member
I found it much easier to convert to a modern u joint less swearing and easier maintenance...JMO Unless you are seeking historical accurate car why keep a pain in the butt?
MJF
Well-Known Member
What is the easy way to convert it to modern u-joint?
Mikes270dart
Well-Known Member
so let me get this straight, the rubber boot has to go over that big chunk of iron that covers the cross or am i missing something
I've been told, but never installed one over mine yet, that the V/W Beetle Swing Axle Boot will install over it our A-body Ball & Trunion. May have even been on this site. It is a split boot not requiring dis-assembly.
One day I'll get around to dropping $20 for one and giving it a try.
If you try this, let me know how it works out.
One day I'll get around to dropping $20 for one and giving it a try.
If you try this, let me know how it works out.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
No, you have to stuff the new boot inside and work it through without poking a hole in it! I you plan on reusing the clamps, carefully remove them. Cut the old boot off. Remove the end plate. Push the coupler housing in until you can remove the rollers. You might want to do that over a nice clean work bench so you don't lose any of the bearings or end caps. Once those parts are removed, you can start pushing the new boot through the housing. Make sure you get it going the right direction as you don't want to have to do it all over again if you get it in backwards! I don't envy you a bit!
65cudalover
Well-Known Member
It is not the transmission that needs replacing. One is replacing the Ball and Trunion joint on the driveshaft with a ujoint (more modern). The driveshaft with the B/T joint unbolts from transmission. Take the whole thing to a diriveshaft shop and let the expert repplace it for you, it requires cutting welding and measurement to keep it the correct length. Then it needs rebalancing. In the future if you have a problem with the u joint you will be able to repair it easily. I had mine done for about 300 bucks, came out nice. The trans in my 65 cuda formula s is not original and is upgraded but that makes no difference it is still a 904 auto same size as original 65 unit. as the driveshaft was the original one!
slantsixdan
=..=
If I were you, I wouldn't use that NOS Mopar boot. It's new (never been used) but it's also old (been sitting around for years). Rubber degrades with age and exposure. Get a new boot from www.oldmoparts.com ; if you're working on any A-body thru '65 the one you need is the one listed for '60-'62 Valiant (Bernbaum doesn't officially support cars made after '62).
The cross-and-roller front U-joint conversion does not involve getting a new transmission; StrokerScamp is teasing you. See here and take note that it has been reported the bolt-up flange part number has changed (or is incorrect in the linked article); it is now 2-2-349.
The cross-and-roller front U-joint conversion does not involve getting a new transmission; StrokerScamp is teasing you. See here and take note that it has been reported the bolt-up flange part number has changed (or is incorrect in the linked article); it is now 2-2-349.
Mikes270dart
Well-Known Member
Gave up on trying to install the boot, way to hard on the fingers. Found a shop with an older gentleman who not only knows how to work on the unit, has one in his Windsor. $50.00 and my fingers still work.
I wish I had takes some pictures. It is possible to push the boot through the inside of the housing without pressing the cross pin out. The secret is to put LOTS of grease on the boot. Inside and out. Then you stretch it over the pin and work it though the housing and carefully pull it through the other end. I've done it a couple of times. It's A PAIN. but possible
plypete
Active Member
I replaced one of those when I had my 59. The service manual I had said to work it around the pin and through the housing. If I remember correstly they also specified the amount of grease to avoid throwing off the balance. It really wasn't that bad of a job.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Sounds like alot of fun to do. lol
Here is a photo of my 64 conversion.
They(Adams Driveshaft,Las Vegas) use parts from a 4x4 front driveshaft and made a complete new driveshaft or may use yours over if you choose. So far I have had 4 of them done this way on different cars with no problem.Just a thought.
They(Adams Driveshaft,Las Vegas) use parts from a 4x4 front driveshaft and made a complete new driveshaft or may use yours over if you choose. So far I have had 4 of them done this way on different cars with no problem.Just a thought.
AussiePlymouths
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I did the boot thingy last year for my '63. Got all the info off SSD on/6 forum.
Tell ya what - I won't be doin' another one.
It's a shocker.
If I coulda found that bloke who did it for $50 I woulda knocked him over, and given him a tip.
Glad you've finished it. Good job out of the way.
Tell ya what - I won't be doin' another one.
It's a shocker.
If I coulda found that bloke who did it for $50 I woulda knocked him over, and given him a tip.
Glad you've finished it. Good job out of the way.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Unless you need the car to stay stock for some reason, the way Darter6 did it is the way to go. By the time you buy all the factory crap and go through the pain of installing it, you'd be much better off in the end by doing the conversion. Those boots only last a few years and then you'll have to do it again!
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
This might help in rebuilding a Ball and trunnion, it makes getting the boot off look a lot easier when it's completly disasembled.
Dan Chase340
Well-Known Member
Nice diagram. But you still have to press out the center pin which is the hard part.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I soaked mine in hot(darn near boiling water for about 10 minutes) and it got soft enough to slide it on easily.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. This info is why I come here. The VW split-boot fix sounds great since the boot is the only thing wrong with one of mine. I got 2 repair kits off ebay at much less than normal asking prices, so set for life. I just kept looking. I also got the whole driveshaft w/ trunnion at PickNPull for a Coronet. It was sitting in the cabin, so an easy pick, but too big for my A's unless I adapt.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Actually, getting the pin back in and centered is the hard part. The slightest bit off center and the driveshaft will vibrate. Same goes for those VW axle boots. With a seam on just one side, it can cause a vibration too.
plypete
Active Member
You do not have to take the pin out at all unless it or the balls are worn. The factory service manual shows how to do it. If I had to rebuild the ball and trunion, I would do the u-joint conversion, but if it is just the boot, it is not that difficult.
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