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PM sent on the yoke

go to www.download.com and download AVG free edition antivirus. Works great. I also run CCleaner and Super Antispyware free edition, both also available at download.com. The combination seems to keep my pc's trouble free.

Classic car insurance is CHEAP. You should be able to get $20k of agreed value coverage for around $200 per year.

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Not mine, but looks like a great deal for someone with a dana 60: http://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/pts/3045281350.html

Rebuilding your own engine can be fun, rewarding, and expensive. If you just want to 'get er done', you can buy a crate engine, with a warranty, for about the same price: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BPC4082CTC/

Thanks for the input. I think Classic Industries sells the Metro brand, and they have some pretty good pricing. I'm going to call to verify it's Metro and if so that's where I'll get it.

I'm looking to purchase just about every seal and weather strip for my 1966 Barracuda. There seem to be a few choices these days... here's the ones I've found so far: Steele Precision Metro Classic Industries Does anyone have input, good or bad, about these? I need to order: - Front/rear...

That's an interesting comment, got me thinking. If you are talking about the 'inner seal', the smaller one that goes on the inner hub (2" or so diameter), the lip on that seal is supposed to be facing downward. I can't visualize how that seal could get rolled while installing the piston unless...

A couple of common problems I've read about are the low/reverse servo getting cocked in the bore (there's a problem solver super servo for $39 that fixes this), and cracked clutch apply pistons. Both problems are easy to overlook during a rebuild. I believe the low/reverse servo problem can...

During rebuild, when installing the 2-3 (or the 1-2) clutch apply piston, it's a bugger trying to get the piston into the cylinder, and very easy to maul or turn the lip on the seal. Bad seal = poor/slow clutch engagement. Just a thought.

I'm no expert but this could have many other causes than the valve body. A bad seal on the 2-3 clutch apply piston? Worn clutch plates? Worn band? Weak 2-3 solenoid? Me thinks you'll have to tear it down to find out. You seem to have all but eliminated the valve body as the source of the...

BWAAAAHAAAHAaaahahahaaaa!!!!

Somebody forgot to torque down the hooter valve: LiveLeak.com - Dyno disaster.

Helped my bud Max put his new AlterKation in.

I like to tell all the phord 9" guys that Mopar made 3 different 8 3/4 rears yada yada yada, and the smallest/weakest 741 has a pinion width larger than theirs (1.375" vs 1.313"). I'm no expert, but I've never even seen a broken 741.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

Thanks. Motor is finished, suspension and axle finished, the transmission is going together now, working on interior and wiring. Won't be too long.

$4500 sandblast, prime, replace all 4 lower quarters, modify trans tunnel for overdrive, install hood scoop, paint, clear coat, wet sand. My friend owns the shop and I considered it a smokin deal.

Been there, done that. Get a lawyer to write them a letter detailing your justification for the higher settlement and threaten a lawsuit if they don't pay you what it's worth. It was THEIR driver that caused this situation, not you. The lawyer will cost you about $150, well worth it, and it...

That guy is under-handed.

It helps to change the protective film on the inside of the glass from time to time. I think you can get the replacement films that are made for each individual cabinet, but I just went to Hobby Lobby and picked up some thin lexan sheets and cut to fit.

Yup, 64. The wider V crease on the front fender gives it away.

Got a good friend on the board here that's tried a couple of Pro Comp items and he says they are cheap knock off chinese imports, they steal others designs, and do a very poor job of it. He says never again, no way, no how will he ever buy a Pro Comp product.

lifts r kewl. I got a Rotary brand... been happy with it.

I think the '2' rating has more to do with the total clutch surface in the tranny than it has to do with the hard parts. The OD clutch, OD Direct Clutch, and Direct Clutch are all upgradeable to more clutch discs, giving it the ability to handle much more torque. I've not been able to find the...

Sounds like a government jobs program to me.

If you want to spend a few extra bucks and take the crate motor shortcut, it's worth it. I build my engines because I enjoy it, but sometimes you just want to get'er done. If I were you, and that's the mood I was in, I would: - Purchase a Jeggs crate motor for $3600...

Is it just me, or is there something wrong with the valve keeper in the RHS photo?

I would splurge and get an overdrive transmission installed. You can do almost anything you want with the engine and final driver ratio and still get great gas mileage compared to any non O/D transmission.