Advantages of a stroker for daily driver

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but I thought using a toggle to turn it off would be a hassle and I figured a way to have it turn off when you tapped the brakes by using a cruise control switch, it would also be safer.

Now that's thinking! I like that. Nice! Real nice.

I might go with a 4 speed for curb appeal of just a normal 904

LOL, nothing like an extra pedal to get the crowd drooling.
 
Now that's thinking! I like that. Nice! Real nice.



LOL, nothing like an extra pedal to get the crowd drooling.


Only thing bad about a 4 speed is I have to drive the car every day I might get tired of having to run through the gears all the time.

Or not:burnout::finga:
 
I just love the 4 speed sound

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wluU6e9TPO0&list=LLHYkLDlL6jm3hidXdg7avPQ&index=10&feature=plpp_video"]Duster - YouTube[/ame]
 
Only thing bad about a 4 speed is I have to drive the car every day I might get tired of having to run through the gears all the time.

Or not:burnout::finga:

Ha ha ha, I'm with ya. IDK about anybody else, but I do love to row my own boat. Having done so for many years in my E-body Cuda, it can be a drag in traffic w/a comp. clutch. Otherwise, LOVE IT!
 
Ive got a .040 360 with 9.5, ex268 cam, ld340, 360 2.02 j heads mildly ported, 650 dp, 904, 2800 convertor, 3.23's with 26'' tires and get around 15 mpg
 
Using the right parts, matching teh driveline, and knowing how to drive all add up to decent milage regardless of the output. If you want milage, keep the cam conservative (on a 4" stroker that means under 240°@.050), keep the ports smaller in volume (basically stock 340/360, or RPM types are perfect), use a large enough carb, use a convertor that's 10" and stalls no higher than 2200, and run a rear gear and tire package that puts your cruise rpm above the stall speed. Doing that, and properly tuning the carb and ignition, the 4" arms will get close to 20mpg. As soon as you use the 9.5 convertor, or gear so high that it's never above the stall speed rating, the mileage will suffer a lot.
 
What about a crate motor I have found out it will cost around 3500-4000 grand to build the motor I want is there a good trueful place to but a 360 crate motor will some what the same specs as I want for 4500 or less.
 
What about a crate motor I have found out it will cost around 3500-4000 grand to build the motor I want is there a good trueful place to but a 360 crate motor will some what the same specs as I want for 4500 or less.


Why don't we start by asking how much you have to spend. It's really a much better way to make progress. Start with the single biggest restriction and fit the plan into that.
 
Why don't we start by asking how much you have to spend. It's really a much better way to make progress. Start with the single biggest restriction and fit the plan into that.


Well I have part time job so I will either buy bit by bit of save and have a crate sent to me.
 
Honestly, the chances of that actually happening is slim. What I would suggest, is you start by getting your hands on a good running stock 360 or 360 Magnum, and concentrate on getting it bolted in. If you constantly chase the big toys, you will more than likely never get anywhere. A stack of parts isnt fun. A car with a running V8 is a riot, even if it's not as fast as you want.
 
Honestly, the chances of that actually happening is slim. What I would suggest, is you start by getting your hands on a good running stock 360 or 360 Magnum, and concentrate on getting it bolted in. If you constantly chase the big toys, you will more than likely never get anywhere. A stack of parts isnt fun. A car with a running V8 is a riot, even if it's not as fast as you want.


Agree. That's why i gave my "realistic" recommendation at post 35:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1720679&postcount=35
 
Pay attention to Moper!

The did not make a 5 spd for this from the factory. The aftermarket has retro fitted a Tremac.
You can build your own engine for less than a create engine. Plus, you build it to your spec's.
Part time job?! Oh boy. Your about in over your head. Stick with what you got and work it up slow. 1 thing at a time.
 
good solid advice here dusterkid .... people are giving you advice because they been there/done that ...there just trying to help you out

myself i had big plans many, many years ago to build a killer motor for a 70 duster I owned but had little money and less brains

I also found myself bying used cams, carbs, intakes ...and buying them because they were cheap not the parts i needed for a good combination...needless to say it ran like **** when it was done.

like moper said get the 360 running then add a few bolt ons if you want a little more power....then plan a decent build and save $$$ for it

good luck

P.S. good to see young guys into mopars instead of civics...good for ya
 
You can run a 2.76 rear gear with an OD A-833! I actually tried that with a 273 with a hot cam.....what a joke....the "torqueless wonder". Even the tiny-est grade on the freeway required a downshift from 4th to 3rd. I'm sure I would've gotten away with it with a 408 though.
 
Depending on the 360 you have, the best idea might be a hydraulic roller (if your block has the capability and a set of lifters (aka Magnum 360)) or if you have any earlier 360, the Summit brand cam and lifters are an excellent part and value. IMO, get "roller cam" out of your head unles you have a 360 Magnum for a base.
 
Did the guy fall asleep, while shifting into 2nd? Seriously, I still have my original 70 Duster, with a 340, 284; 484 cam. Stock except for the 700 carb and Mallory hyfire. I can run with anything on the street. This same car came with a 318, manual 3 speed, open 3.23. put a 500 carb on it, so big, re-jetting nightmare. With some tweaking (carb, valve springs, traction bars; I was at the 1/8 track, beating buddies with 383 cuda, 69 306, 350 hp chevelle, would only lose by 2 car lengths to a Duster 340 with 3.91 gears.)

You can get power of of small cubes. Just talk to people. That 340 screams. Almost stock. Kinda wants more octane than 91; broke a piston top land off.

Mileage? I thought these were for fun. Durability? Stock with cam and carb; yes. Stroker? don't keep your foot in it. It's all in fine tuning; figuring out what the engine wants/needs.

Darn, I wish we had computers and forums back in 1967. Would have wasted less $.
 
If you want to spend a few extra bucks and take the crate motor shortcut, it's worth it. I build my engines because I enjoy it, but sometimes you just want to get'er done. If I were you, and that's the mood I was in, I would:

- Purchase a Jeggs crate motor for $3600
http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint-Eng...er-408ci-Stroker-375HP-460TQ/1617620/10002/-1

- Get a 1993/1994 (and some 1995's) a500 (42rh) overdrive transmission. $200-$1100 depending on how you buy it, if you rebuild it, and how beefy you rebuild it. They are widely available, and you can usually get them on Craigslist for anything from $100 for a core, to $750 for rebuilt. You may want to add some upgraded clutch discs and a few other things if you're going to drive it hard.

- Modify your transmission tunnel so the larger overdrive rear end of the a500(42rh) will fit in it. The hardest part of modifying the tranny tunnel is getting the engine/tranny out if you ask me. You're going to have them out anyway, so just go ahead and knock it out. There's plenty of how-to's posted on this board.

- Get the PATC PATC 727 to 518 Conversion Kit (Overdrive/Lockup controller) to control these features on the tranny. $85 for the kit, and not hard to install. There's a deluxe kit for $325, you won't need this.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

- Have your drive shaft shortened and balanced (the overdrive tranny is longer than the 904 and requirs the shaft to be shortened). $50-$100.


A few notes on the a500:
The a500(42rh) is the 904 based tranny with overdrive. I believe the 42rh was introduced in 1988, but I recommend getting the 1993/4/5 because the 42rh had a lot of little changes by 1993/4 and the reliability factor went up. The a500 has 2 major versions, the 42rh (1988-1995ish), and the 42re (1995ish and up). You won't use the 42re, it requires a computer (TCM) to control it. Doable, but expensive. You can tell the difference between a 42rh and 42re by the electical connector located by the shifter linkage. The 42rh will have an oblong 3 pin (one hot wire, one ground to control the OD, and one ground to control the lockup torque converter) and the 42re will have a larger round connector with 8 or 9 pins. Some 46rh (larger 727 based)trannys came with 2 pins on the early model (1988-1992?) because they didn't have a lockup converter. To my knowledge, all 42rh's had lockup converters and cam with the 3 pin connector.

Another plus is that the a500(42rh) has a 1st gear ratio of 2.74/1 and 2nd gear is 1.54/1. That's a 12% gear reduction in first, making a rear axle with a 3.23 behave like a 3.61 and a 3.55 will behave like a 3.98.

Transmission A-500 904/727
Gear
First 2.74 2.45
Second 1.54 1.45
Third 1.00 1.00
Fourth 0.69 n/a
Reverse 2.21 2.21

The 42rh will bolt right up to the 273/318/360 LA small blocks.

Here's a link to a great article one of the FABO guys sent to me. It covers upgrading from a 727 to the a518, which will be identical in most aspects to the 904/a500 swap.
http://www.insuranceforhomeinspectors.com/mopar/a518Swap.pdf
 
The best advise I can give you is to scour your local craigslist ads every day. I have a search feature on my Android phone that alerts me whenever someone in my area posts anything Mopar, 340, 360 etc for sale.

There is a rebuilt 360/727 local to me that has less than 3000 miles on it for $600. Deals like this are out there, but you have to look for them. Buy some Shoemaker mounts, a bigger radiator, change the drive shaft, there you have it. A V8 car that is fun and you can build on.

Saving up for big expensive pieces at your age may kill the thrill of the project and you'll move on to something else by summer. I have teenagers...
 
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