Scat 4” cast crank?

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I'm really trying to just read along as I don't want to stir up a hornet's nest. But I do have a question if that's okay. I may not have been in the right location but does anyone have a part number for icon pistons for a 318 with a stock stroke? I didn't mean to highjack the OP post and thanks in advance.
 
dan the minivan said... I'm really trying to just read along as I don't want to stir up a hornet's nest. But I do have a question if that's okay. I may not have been in the right location but does anyone have a part number for icon pistons for a 318 with a stock stroke? I didn't mean to highjack the OP post and thanks in advance.

why? you won't buy any. just like you won't buy a mopar either despite sooooo much help from people doing the research for you with that too. :BangHead: :realcrazy:
 
dan the minivan said... I'm really trying to just read along as I don't want to stir up a hornet's nest. But I do have a question if that's okay. I may not have been in the right location but does anyone have a part number for icon pistons for a 318 with a stock stroke? I didn't mean to highjack the OP post and thanks in advance.

why? you won't buy any. just like you won't buy a mopar either despite sooooo much help from people doing the research for you with that too. :BangHead: :realcrazy:
It's as if he doesn't have the same internet we all do. I found that link I posted in less than 20 seconds.
 
I had to have machine shop turn my cast Scat crank 10/10 due to excessive runout which was reported to Scat who gave me the big middle finger. The Scat I beam rods all checked out though. This was back in 2009 and engine still running good.
 
I had to have machine shop turn my cast Scat crank 10/10 due to excessive runout which was reported to Scat who gave me the big middle finger. The Scat I beam rods all checked out though. This was back in 2009 and engine still running good.
If that was a nitrided crank.....and I bet it was, they should have paid to have it re-nitrided. They really should have send you another crank. The fekkers.
 
I had to have machine shop turn my cast Scat crank 10/10 due to excessive runout which was reported to Scat who gave me the big middle finger. The Scat I beam rods all checked out though. This was back in 2009 and engine still running good.
Good thing you checked it. Out of the box doesn't always mean ready to run.
 
If that was a nitrided crank.....and I bet it was, they should have paid to have it re-nitrided. They really should have send you another crank. The fekkers.
Good point ! But it has survived . My car may see thrack 2 or 3 times and unless our track has changed (it’s busier) that means 3 runs a day lol
 
Scat "cast" is just fine ...
Keep the cyber spending gurus out of your head...
A near guarantee You're not gonna break it or have problems? I have 2 in service now. One in a drag car for ten years...
 
dan the minivan said... I'm really trying to just read along as I don't want to stir up a hornet's nest. But I do have a question if that's okay. I may not have been in the right location but does anyone have a part number for icon pistons for a 318 with a stock stroke? I didn't mean to highjack the OP post and thanks in advance.

why? you won't buy any. just like you won't buy a mopar either despite sooooo much help from people doing the research for you with that too. :BangHead: :realcrazy:
Well, it looks like I don't have to take him off ignore yet. I will when he gets a car, but I don't think I ever will lol...
I found it tiresome over a year ago...
At my age, I don't suffer fools or a******* at all....
 
The scat crank is the same one used in this mopar crate motor. The mopar performance number is p5007258 for the crank and is the same crank made by scat in a mopar box. The motor makes ALL of (if not more) the the advertised horsepower and is a torque monster. I haven’t had any problems. Apparently from what I’m told and have read is that it is a ‘heavy duty’ crank and is stronger than just a standard stock cast crank.

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I have been running a Scat cast crank since 2009. A little over 400 hp, spinning it to 6800 rpm. When I changed pistons about 8 years ago I had it balanced to 1/2 gram, the very old gentlemen that did it checked it for straightness. Still straight. I am very happy with it, but have been a bit hesitant to throw a roller cam in and increase my power level much.
 
I built a bracket race 416 using a Scat cast crank and their forged I beam rods over 10 years ago.
About 550hp……..no problems.
Just ordered Scat rods this morning . Figured by the time I had my old ones bushed and resized I would be within a few hundred bucks of new lighter stronger ones with bigger/ stronger bolts.
 
It will be interesting to see how the engine reacts to this cam vs the 3.58 crank . Of course it will have a little more compression and a better quench .

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Static compression ratio of 10.2:1.
Effective stroke is 3.83 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 9.81:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 196.37PSI.
 
Having done this recently, I thought the scat cast crank was a deal. But, having to put almost as much money into heavy metal to balance it, I would have been better off with the forged unit.
I have no doubt it is good enough strength-wise for your application, just whether it will make financial sense.
 
I have been running a Mopar Performance cast 4 inch crank( which is a Scat 9000 series crank) in the 416 in my Dart since 2006 with Scat H beam rods and Wiseco pistons 10.43 compresion. Ported Indy Brook heads with a .668 lift solid roller, I shift it at 6500 and have been into the rev limiter set at 6800 on the street hundreds of times over the years. The Dart has run a best of 10.63 at 126 with a 1.46 60 foot with a Jerico 4spd. I personally think that a stick shift car like mine has a lot more shock load on the crank and rotating assembly than and automatic car. I have not crack the seal on this engine since 2010 except to adjust the valves, when I put the ported heads and roller cam in it. I drive it on the highway with 4.30 gears at 3500 rpm's at 65 mph going to car shows and meets. Cast cranks are a lot more durable than most people think.
 
Add up the cost of what you have in the engine and ask yourself if the cost difference between a cast Scat crank and a 4340 Molnar steel crank are to much if that Scat crank breaks.

Building a short block is like building a house. You only get one chance to build the foundation correctly. If you do it wrong it will cost you monetarily and in extreme frustration.

To each their own though. :BangHead:

Tom
You make a good point, but it is all about the budget. If you do the extra 300 to 400 on crank, rods, heads, headers, etc it is easy to double the cost quick.

I have not heard of any problems with Scat cast cranks unlike the Eagle stuff.

I would use it for a street engine if it didnt wind up costing a bunch of money to balance with the rest of your parts.
 
I have been running a Mopar Performance cast 4 inch crank( which is a Scat 9000 series crank) in the 416 in my Dart since 2006 with Scat H beam rods and Wiseco pistons 10.43 compresion. Ported Indy Brook heads with a .668 lift solid roller, I shift it at 6500 and have been into the rev limiter set at 6800 on the street hundreds of times over the years. The Dart has run a best of 10.63 at 126 with a 1.46 60 foot with a Jerico 4spd. I personally think that a stick shift car like mine has a lot more shock load on the crank and rotating assembly than and automatic car. I have not crack the seal on this engine since 2010 except to adjust the valves, when I put the ported heads and roller cam in it. I drive it on the highway with 4.30 gears at 3500 rpm's at 65 mph going to car shows and meets. Cast cranks are a lot more durable than most people think.
To your point, there are a hell of a lot of hot 360s out there running the factory cast crank.
 
This car is a summer daily ( when Im not riding my dual sport or using the truck for camping/dirtbiking) and will seldom see over 5k rpm . No need for a max performance crank . I figure 450 hp maybe 500 ft-lbs.
Seems to me like the cost to use the cast 4 inch crank would exceeded the value you will get back. I personally can’t see going to that expense and using cast pistons for a 450 hp goal. Seems like you already have a 408 that is built the way you want at the power level you want. Just my two cents worth.
 
mbaird, My 416 is balanced with the 360 counter weight. I thought about the mallory metal balance but i elected to keep the rotating assembly lighter, 360 SFI balancer and 360 aluminum flywheel, 1800 grams on the centrifugal balance weight.
 

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