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Windsor ontario

I am selling my ride,so here's what i can tell you. 2 door hardtop was a /6,now a 340-1970 block x heads stainless values 1 piece 2 1/2" tti exhaust 70 hipo exhaust manifolds mopar msd wizard cooling custom radiator 8-3/4 rearend 3:55 gear 904 auto shifts hard 700 holley edelbrock...

small block 340,x-head with a.450 lift

would anyone have a good used complete set of roller rockers they aren't using any longer,that you might want to part with.

i really just need the one,what are you asking for both

lookin for one 340 X-head that hasn't been molested,hopefully i can find one locally.(ontario,canada) thanx,

i'm thinkin "Muscle Duster"

where did u get this,i think one of those would look great oo my scamp

thanks' guy but i already know where to get one,what it is, and where to find it,all i what to know is how you figure out it's the ECU that's not working.

how to u tell if your orange box is not working,went to start it up and it crank's but no spark,i also changed the ballast and nothing changed still not firing so that is why i yhink it might be the ECU.ran great before this......all of a sudden i got nothing any idea's on this would be great

i'd love a decent used set of those scoop's

i had the same problem so i had pull out the distributor drive and move it a few teeth(not to sure how many)so #1 was in a different location.still have a few snug wires but its okay.if there not origonal valve covers they be taller,that'ss my problem.

i believe your right,except for heat shield/gasket on the drivers side.

i have a 700 holley DP mechanical 2'nds, the thing ROCKS(340-904 auto)

this is what i did.

cars are one thing/but this computor stuff.i'm not that smart.

i find things happen in three's,always does to me.

believe it or not i just bent mine so it came to the other side.hope this makes sense to you. it worked.

i've seen others post them,HOW DO YOU DO THAT?.

why i ask is i just put in MP electronic kit

thanks for the info. mines less voltage, battery could probably need a good charge.

i just got this one made for my 72 scamp 340 from WIZARDCOOLING, 2 rows of 1" tubes

with the key in on position, is normal for the ballist to get hot. also how much voltage is normal at coil with the key on,not running(just trying to get things right before i get it started for the first time........i'm getting nervous)

21 1/4" x 18" - 2 rows of 1" tubes, so a 2 1/4" core thickness--- 3" overall www.wizardcooling.com they have a great site. same amount of cooling as a 4 row copper.

i,d like an opinion on that also.

$480.00+$65.00 shipping

I've seen alot of custom made Radiators,...but this is an Original 22" downflow aluminum one that I just got from Wizard Cooling & I can't believe the quality and workmanship. This is a direct replacement Radiator....not some after market replacement Radiator. Just wanted to show ya's.

could be driveshaft angle,sometimes the rearend needs to be SHIMMED to correct this.could be out a few degree's.won't hurt to check.someone should have spec's on this.

my 2 1/2" tti h-pipe is about 2" past the end of my tailstock...........HHHHHHHH-PIPE

no,just waiting for my rad to come in then it will see some spark. ordered one from wizardcooling.com looks to be a nice unit,custom made.