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I did the same thing years ago when I went with an MSD CD ignition and distributor. The only difference is the ignition circuits from the key now go to an interposing relay. The ignition switch was the issue. Now if I can only find a driver to tighten the nut on the ignition switch!

here ya go.

You can see how worn the contact pads are. The one closest is very worn. Everything was covered in a thick sticky black paste. I didn't bother measuring it for conductivity. I think it actually looks pretty good for its age.

New switch came today. Quite a challenge to install the tumblers as the tumbler retaining clip would move forward and reposition the clip pivot pin in the wrong place. I ended up removing the chrome cap from the tumbler and tapping it in with a small drift positioned on the clip pivot. This...

Thank you for your help. I've ordered a new switch. Lets hope the tumbler fits so I don't have to use a different key for the ignition and doors. I guess it really doesn't matter as I never lock this car anyway or leave anything of value in it. I'd rather if someone wants in they just open the...

I was curious if that was not the case. I'll pick up a new switch and see if that does not solve the problem. Yes, the Sniper has dedicated power and ground lines going straight to the battery. The "ign" wire on the Sniper is an enable input to the FI ECU and provides power for the display...

Hi fellow Moparians! I've been running a Sniper EFI on a 1972 LA 360 in a 1967 Dart GT Conv. for the last few years. When I turn the key from start to run there is an interruption of power on the ignition wires. Not a big deal and has been like this forever but it does cause the EFI to reboot...

Thank you R3! You know, I was born on a Monday but not last Monday too! Hee hee Had to look it up. I'll be pulling the inner spring from the valves. I spent several months in Meldrim, GA optimizing what is now the Interfor Lumber Mill. Learned what a low country boil was and make them now in...

I'm getting ready to install a cam that has already been used and new lifters. What is the break in process for this type of install. I know the cam is perfect as it is my cam and I bought it new and installed it years back. I removed it and replaced it with a cam that produced torque at a lower...

Wow! I guess I got lucky and learned an important lesson. All the retainers are accounted for. Four of them came off. Others are damaged. You can see the three retainers if you look closely. I really messed up. I've ordered lunati 71977-16 lifters. Should be here at the end of the month. Never...

I too run a Sniper and have for several years. The biggest issues I have had are with starting. Not that it didn't start, it just seems to be too advanced or inconsistent during starting regardless of the cranking degrees value that I set. When I run EFI full only and an unlocked rotor...

compcams 867-16

[ I agree, the HS rockers are radius ball adjusters. I don't think I'll ever go back to CC pushrods. This has been a learning lesson for me. I very much appreciate everyone's comments, opinions, and the knowledge that's been shared.

The retainer on these lifters is large and flat. The pushrods are flat on the bottom. This allows the pushrod to hang on the retainer if it is not properly centered. As you can see the Smith Bros. is more radiused than the CC. The question that I have now is what damage, if any, has been caused...

That's interesting. The lifters and pushrods are both CompCam components designed for this motor. the rockers are Harland Sharp also designed for this application and with a 5/16 ball adjuster. In the image I have provided the bottom rod is the CC and the top rod is the Smith Bros. Are these...

I do believe they are. The lifter is CC 867 and the pushrods are CC 7821.

Don't think that's it in this case. You can see the deformation of the retainer where the rod pushed down on it. I have Harland Sharp adjustable roller rocker arms that have been working for years. This is a case of: 1. Fixing something that wasn't really broken just wasn't "right" in my view...

Will do and "Howdy!"

I received the new rods from Smith Bros. and they look great. IMO the construction and finish is far better than the off the shelf CC rods that I have been using. While .25" shorter they are .2 ozs. heavier. On with the tale: While installing the new pushrods I noticed that the #1 intake rod...

So what cover gasket do you recommend? I'm using Fel-Pro cork with steel 1609. Edelbrock aluminum covers. Rtv on both sides to seal. Moroso makes a neoprene gasket that has my eye.

That's good to know! I paid just south of 200. Stock set from Comp are 175 so I'm happy with the cost.

Thank you both for your help and insight! Ah, lubrication. With the rocker being a cup the lubrication from the rocker can not get to the ball - cup mating surfaces. I ordered a set of custom rods from Smith Bros. Chrome moly and cheaper than I was expecting. Thank you! Charlie

I have a LA 360 with Edelbrock heads, hyd. flat cam, and Harland Sharp rockers. I've been using the LA spec'd pushrods until now but they are actually too long. I chamfered the top of the cup to allow the pushrod - lifter to work without interference. This has worked but I'm not happy with it...

The seal I'm installing has a small hole in the boot. Any idea what direction that hole should be pointed? I'm thinking down. Is this correct?

Maybe it wasn't such a silly question as that was what I was going to ask at the beginning of this thread. Can I get away with just removing the cone and running without it. You can see in the picture that the spur gear shaft does not extend far enough to be supported by the cone anyway.

Thank you, I was actually thinking along those lines too. They're cheaper too! Charlie

I wanted to delete this entry it was a stupid question.

I recently installed a different 904 and with it a HP 3000 stall converter that uses 7/16" bolts. After completion the bolts came in contact with the dust shield. Made quite a racket! I ordered ARP bolts to replace the HP bolts. These bolts are .05" thinner at the head and resolved the problem...

Thanks AJ, No leakage while sitting. Oil present on yoke u-joint and surrounding underbody after driving. Replacement of bushing seems to have resolved it. Waiting on new seal. probable don't need it but will change anyway.

I thought that might be the case, thanks.