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Had it Thursday (not laparoscopic) - just walked out to the garage (nice and slow) to let the Darts know I'll be back soon. Anybody else had this done (inguinal) how long before I can torque my nuts :) ?

I bought a 72 Swinger - been sitting quite awhile. Owner has lost keys and column is locked. Whats quickest way to unlock column so we can get 'er on the trailer ? Not worried about harm done as I'll be parting out. I'm assuming yanking the switch out and screwdriver or such to turn - but...

What size is that head (I obviously don't own a socket large enough) ? I know it's bigger than 1 1/16 !

Here's the dealio - we got my newly built 340 running good BUT - simply bolted the 770 Avenger on out of the box and set timing to what "worked". Obviously (500 mile break-in done) it's time to get it dialed in right. Is paying for the dyno time worth it, or are the differences with a weekend...

I get a small lurch forward upon start-up in park when cold. Only at first, every few revs, then gone when warmed up. I'm assuming it's related to torque convertor (?) 3200 stall.

What would be most recommended for a 340 4-speed car. Will have the Comp 268 cam (unless other is suggested) and 3.55 rear - why double-pumper over vacuum (if recommended) ? Thanks. I have a 670 Avenger (vacuum) that I can use - but not sure if that's what I want on a 4-speed car. I'd like to...

Where the heck is the flasher located on a 73 A - body, I swear I don't see one (maybe why the blinkers aint working,

Not sure if I'll be regretting the 3:73's yet, haven't had it to highway speed but am turning pretty high at 45 - what can I expect and how big of a difference with taller tire selection ? 340/727/3000 stall. Don't get me wrong, I want the quicker response - just curious.

1970 Swinger - is the dash frame the same just different instrument clusters/bezels on standard and rallye ? I am also assuming radio delete cars have the cutouts - with a blank plastic bezel ? Just asking before the swap meets - need a frame.

Well, I see the "10 second small block" thread. It seems to me, as far as streetable, this is more "doe-able" with cubes - any thoughts on a 11 sec 440 build that'd be definitely street friendly ?

How is step 3 performed below (tweaking kickdown) - where's the screw (vac secondary Avenger) The tuning DVD I got from Holley was blank ! 1. pull kickdown off of the carb. 2. set the gas pedal to WOT. 3. looking down the carb, adjust the accelerator linkage until the throttle plates are...

What are the advantages to switching from power to manual ? I noticed it comes up every once in a while here. Would'nt power be better (easier) for a 4-speed car ?

Are power and manual columns interchangeable (same lengths) ?

My brain can't get a handle around kickdown adjustment. I have a Holley Avenger and an AirGap - when I open the throttle (pedal to floor) the kickdown slotted rod is pulled forward (if play is out), towards the front of the car, which is pulling trans kickdown lever forward as well. from what...

ot sure where the adjustment may be here since this is a first for me - I've got about 3 fingers clearance between tire and wheel well (front side) on one side and about one finger on the other (so much so that I have insufficient tire clearance on cornering - ask me how I know). this...

I want to make sure my heater and radiator hoses remain leak-free without over-tightening. My issue right now is the chrome filler neck on my manifold leaking - got the clamp super tight and it still wont seal (not at the base, around the hose itself). Someone recommended sanding the chrome neck...

The bunch that runs to the coil/distributor/something else - what's the something else (brown) in this run ? Is it oil pressure or choke ? Didn't take enough notes at dis-assembly !

Adding a trans cooler soon - should I keep the radiator lines and route through the cooler or block the old radiator lines and run aftermarket cooler only ? I've read that radiator can heat trans fluid (or at least is not as efficient) as a stand-alone cooler ? If vote is to keep radiator lines...

Okay lay out the gasket sequence here - obviously I can figure out the adapter-to-block gasket - but I guess I wasn't aware of the one (or two ?) used on the bolt (a nylon and a cork ?) No instructions in my Haynes or "How to Rebuild SB Mopars" seems odd.

I have an aluminum timing chain cover .... I'm pretty sure I stripped some of the threads (why I say "some" is 'cause as soon as I felt the slip, I backed out (ARP chrome bolt, 1" , seemed somewhat short). Any way, I grabbed another bolt a half inch longer and it tightened fine. Was curious how...

Are these just for looks on street cars ? I was considering running from fuel pump to carb - looks great but no real advantages, correct ? I'm assuming they come into play when you want fail-safe parts on a race car ?

I have either to put in my Duster. If both are built about the same with regards to bolt-ons and pistons/compression - is there a significant difference in gas mileage (thinking about if/when gas goes back up).

Let me firt say that on this particular car (/6 Duster going V8) I am not at all concerned about originality, that being said. I came across a complete Ford 9" for a hundred bucks, not sure if posi or gear ratio. I know I am not going to find an 8 3/4 complete for less than 5-600.00 (or more)...

Is this the one year only 67 K member with the funky pitman arm ? Is it basically useless or will I be able to use/sell it one day ?

So if you've got a car with a good deal of door dings scattered throughout, and your stripping to bare metal or scuffing dull - you lose sight of those spots and can't pinpoint them to address each at a time. Is the best way to get 'er straight to skim coat the whole area and long block ? I know...

Towing an automatic car about 30 miles - do we have to disconnect the driveshaft ?

That is my question ...... with my new TTI headers - do I go all bolts or leave the outside studs in place ?

Couple questions regarding lube. My 340 has a home-made deep sump oil pan, looks nice, they basically "mini-tubbed" it ! It measures 9" deep from flange to bottom of sump - what's the approximate capacity. Question 2 - 727 (stock pan) -what's the capacity with new convertor and do I need to fill...

Airgap has a stripped out hole for temp sensor - don't need this hole anyway, don't have ability to tap and plug - would JB Weld not do the trick or another recommendation ?

Asked earlier but didn't title it to get response - 1971 Swinger -1968 340 - .030 over - 727 - ported X's - fly cut flat-top pistons - maybe 9.5:1 - 268 cam - headers - Air Gap, etc.,etc. Was considering Autolite AP65's or Champ N12Y's - should I go a little hotter since comp isn't that high ?