front suspension "wacked"

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orangecrush

orangecrush

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ot sure where the adjustment may be here since this is a first for me - I've got about 3 fingers clearance between tire and wheel well (front side) on one side and about one finger on the other (so much so that I have insufficient tire clearance on cornering - ask me how I know). this "measurement" changes rolling the car around the lot. I need to know where I need to tweak (not driving till aligned) I rebuilt everything on the frontend and installe tubular UCA's so all is out of whack. I don't see how the adjustment's made here to basicalli move the spindle straight back an inch or more for enough clearance ? New to Mopar suspensions.
 
Sounds like the toe setting is way off. Center the steering wheel and eye up the tires from the front of the car. Move the tie rods to adjust both wheels pointing as straight ahead as possible.

That should get you a bit more mobile......alignment asap....:cheers:
 
Thanks - this happened at the muffler shop, the guys noticed how far out the toe was (tires squealing and hard to push on the rack), so they did a quick measurement (distance across front face center to center and back face center to center, quickie) they then adjusted by pulling in drivers side only tie rods - even tho the car was no longer as bad "out of wack", the side they adjusted is the side that now rubs on turning. I know , it's a muffler shop , they were trying to help. I just need to tweak here at home to safely get it out and on the trailer for alignment without catching the inner fender again. I'll try to play tomorrow but it appears the adjustment should have been done equally to both sides ?
 
orangecrush said:
I'll try to play tomorrow but it appears the adjustment should have been done equally to both sides ?
Click to expand...

you have to center the wheel before moving the tie rods and then center/align the tires by eye.....maybe one side, maybe both.....it depends
 
If there is any play in your steering now is the time to adjust the steering box then center the wheel.
 
Camber's positive on the side that rubs. You have tubular A-arms. Shorten that side, and the top of the tire will move away from the fender. Make the front end of the A-arm longer, and the rear one shorter will give you positive caster, which is what you want, too. Hold a carpenters square against the tire, and measure from it to the same place on the wheel on the top and the bottom. If the measurement is the same, your wheel has zero camber, which is good if you want to drive it to the alignment shop. If the upper measurement is more than the lower measurement, you have negative camber. 1/4" to 3/8" difference gives you about 1 degree negative camber.
 
I have the same problem with tire clearance on my big Dodge. The K-frame is tweaked from a pot hole hit at 25 mph. This aint gonna be an easy fix!
 
If the clearance is off at the front of the wheel well, couldn't this be adjusted by lengthening the lower control arm strut? This would push the LCA farther back in the opening.
 
ebuilt everything on the frontend and installe tubular UCA's so all is out of whack.

The problem started here. Alignment shop.
 
Hey all - I adjusted the cam bolts on the UCA pushing the front arm to the rearmost position (lengthening the front arm - shortened the rear arm) still not the clearance I need. What's odd is the pass. side is pretty much equal as far as cast/camb "eyeball" adjustment and tire sits fairly center in wheelwell. Drivers side I cant seem to get the rearward adjustment I need by cam bolts - stated above was "couldn't this be adjusted by lengthening the lower control arm strut? " Is that an option. To clear this up - I will be taking it directly to the allignment shop BUT - I dont need my driver side 60 series taking another bite out of my fender on a hard turn !
 
Bite the bullet and "take it" or "tow it" to a competent alignment shop.

You need a base reading on the alignment with 4 wheel specs if possible......:cheers:
 
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