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What is the best place to get 3:55 gears for a 8 1/4 rearend ? I have 3:23 now and would like to move up. And also would that help me much for quicker response. Thanks

so what size axle do you have now and what size are you about to swap in? Also not seeing anything about backer-plates/drums etc. you will need those and they can be costly/hard to get hold of. you can reuse shackle plate (where shock mounts) if you drill the four holes a little larger to...

meant to add any of those options you listed will work if correct material is used, obviously braided would look sweet, hard lines would be most praticle and rubber would be pricey and look good also. it all depends on your preference and budget.

on my "built" trans I went with hard metal line to the fact they dissipate heat to give a slight aid in the cooling. metal brake lines create way more psi than trans lines do so their also very safe, stronger than most common rubber hydraulic hoses out there also

would like to find them for less than $300 ! Anyone got any suggestions? thanks again

will last forever depending on how you drive it! It can handle the small occasional burnout easily. But you go pulling 50' burnouts it will only last through maybe a hundred on those from what I have seen first hand experiance. And this is ONLY if your running skinny street tires (less than...

I am wanting to find a 3.73 or equivelent for my 8.25 axle on 72 duster, which was donated from a 73 duster. I am only able to find 3.55 or 3.90's. Any thoughts on where to find them at? Also do ALL chrysler 8.25 ring & pinion swap out with each other or is there a certain carrier like a 8.75...

I need a basic rebuild kit for my a body 727 (72 or 73 model year) pk 3681053 4083 1473 what do you guys recomend? Its a car show city cruiser with around 340hp. I am considering this one? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-128700/ another member gave me...

he told me over ther phone it was a lock-up type and I need to find a 440-727 from 70 or 71 to use as a donor to make mine worth a crap, I was just trying to verify that it was indeed a lock-up. Do you guys think this trans I have now would work with a 3000 stall and a tci complete overhaul kit...

Trying to figure out if my trans is a lockup trans or not. The numbers of the rail are PK 3681053 4083 1473. Person rebuilding my trans said I need to find a 727 from a big block as a donor to use some of the internals to rebuild mine if its indeed a lockup trans. Its behind a 350hp 340...

autozone has it, you were either dealing with an employee that didnt look it up correct or its not in computer for that year/make of dodge. exactly which axle seal are you refering to?

I dont have an open diff, I have a spooled rear-end and want a clutch type locker since its ONLY a show car cruiser.

im very well aware i can buy a new one. Im just looking to save some money, and I dont know how to set-up the gears, thought if I could find a sure-grip with 3:55 3:90's i could just easily swap them out and save money on labor by doing it myself and not having to "build" the rear-end...

wanting to know what chrysler vehicles commonly have sure-grips in them that would be at junk-yards and gear ratio for an 8.75 to replace my spool. thanks I seen this is a thread a few years back but couldnt find it on a search.

i've tried a long flat-head with no luck to help. the position of the parking rod is wrong and wont engage park or allow shifter to move its so bound up

I cant seem to get the parking rod correct. when i install the valve body the parking rod is preventing the gear selector from moving either direction. I've tried to pull out parking rod by pulling on it and moving drive shaft back and forth with NO luck. looking at a pic of how rod should be...

my 68 dart with a 727 and 72 duster with 904 dip sticks are exact same length and tubes are also the same size.

problem solved, left a little spring out on the throttle part of the valve body......... thanks for the help anyhow

it shifted exactly like a stock trans is suppose to before install. will pull it back apart in a few hours

also just for more info I added all B&M trick shift fluid to trans for the refill. thanks

installed a b&m shift improver on my 727 in my 68 dart. It goes into reverse like normal, then in drive gears it engages and takes off very slowly when taking off with not much throttle, then if i gas it hard it acts as though im doing an "neutral drop" and tires turn-over really good. shifts...

anyone know of a good donor vehicle I can get all these parts from junk yard out of like a newer car that would be a direct swap so all I gotta spend big bucks on is the sbp drums? I have lots of salvage yards around I can get good shoes, cylinders, springs etc from. Im way over budget already!

my donor axle had two backer plates on it which im using and one brake shoe rusted to it, so I measured it and it was 2", so I will buy 10" sbp drums and 10x2 shoes. thanks for the helpfull info about the shoe sizes!

(68 dart 340) I am swapping 7.25 to 8.75. I bought correct A-body housing and axles staying with the 5x4 sbp so my cragers still fit. Problem is my old 7.25 backer plate wont fit due to wrong bolt patter and center hole to small for axle bearing to fit though hole in middle of plate. I do...

I have a 1968 Dodge Dart, it has a 7 1/4 rear end which just went out. Is there anyone in lower Michigan with a complete 8 3/4 that is for sale. Send me a email or call 269-273-3535 with what you have. Thanks Dan

I just replaced my speedometer cable with a new one. It didn't have any gears on the end of it, but now my speedometer shows about 15 to 20 miles faster than it is. What tooth of a gear do I need ? Thanks Dan