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I have a Dana 60 I'm my car, the only thing I have noticed that is different, is that it looks different when you look under the car. Yes, changing gears will be much more of a process, but I like the gears I have (3.91) and have never thought about changing them.

What is hot?

Shock loads are lower on a street car but at that power level a Dana 60 is something I would start thinking about.

I have 3.91s and a 26" (e70-14) tire. I just drive the speed limit on the highway. Works for me.

205-70-15 is just a tick over 26" tall so it's taller than the original tires were. I would move to a vacuum secondary carb (if you don't already have one) and make sure everything is tuned correctly. I think you have more MPG in what you have. The big problem is this is a new build and your...

Unbolt the driveline, turn it 180 degrees, and bolt it back in. This may or may not do anything but it's free. If it does nothing, refer to post #2.

It all comes down to what kind of shock loads you are going to be putting on it. If you plan to run slicks and your chassis is working well, I would move to a 60.

Have you lubed the shaft thoroughly?

I have a 60 in my car with XHD springs. No under-body mods were required.

A housing that may have been heated to 1,200 degrees then rapidly cooled with a fire hose is something that i would be very hesitant to use.

Ok, got it. I was reading through and I guess I didn't catch that.

If you swapped wheels side to side and the wobble also changed sides, it's the wheel. If you swapped wheels side to side and the wobble did not change sides, it's the axle.

Loosen all the lug nuts, make sure the wheel seats flat against the hub and re-torque. Remove the straps holding the drive line to the rear end, flip the drive line 180 in the yoke, re-install and re-torque. Both of these cost zero money and I have seen them fix similar problems.

Think of a spool of thread. If you pull the thread the entire spool turns. Both ends of the spool are turning equally to each other. With a spool, you give up the differential action that is very desirable for the street. Spools are fine for going straight and provide 100% torque to both...

Lets set the 741 case aside for a moment. Do you really want a 2.73, open rear end? I wouldn't pay $200 for it.

Most of the effort comes from the pressure plate. How old are you, if you don't mind me asking. Your clutch could also be normal. If your driving history is automatics or modern car manuals with their easy hydraulic clutches, an old mechanical clutch linkage will feel stiff.

Centerforce is a good choice and makes for less effort. A stock replacement would also be an option.

I hear you there. A Samurai with front and rear lockers is an amazing machine.

Isn't this your daily driver? The Lock-Right will change how your car drives. You can feel it locking and unlocking, sometimes they pop and do weird things. I had them front and rear in my Suzuki Samurai. They are fantastic for an off road rig.

Yup, probably one of the key reasons we don't see mechanical linkage anymore.

Could be several things. Lifting/spinning the inside tire. Broken motor mount. Just to name a couple.

IF you do it like this, you did it wrong.

it very well could.

Unbolt the drive-line at the rear end, turn it 180 degrees, bolt it down and take it for a drive. Check your tires for lumps and bumps, an indication of belt separation. I recommend these two things first because they are free.

You will be fine. Stock tire hight is just a touch under 26".

In my area you can get a nice, 2003 Neon for $3000. To me that's a better option than doing an engine and transmission replacement in one.

Inexpensive and 1000hp are from 2 different planets.

I just loosened the flange and shoved some cardboard in to cover the ports.

Sawzall, best tool for header removal. I did this too. Worked great.

I would contact Brewers.