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Inland shifters continued part way through the 68 model year.

All of your symptoms could be related to a bad pressure plate, broken clutch.

Maybe true for some years but my 68, 4 speed has no torque boxes in any position. Original drivetrain and fender tag.

The shifter in post #1 is a Hurst but I don't know what vintage. Hopefully someone will post about rod compatibility, because I just don't know.

The pic of your shifter in post #4 is not an Inland. It may be a Mr Gasket, aftermarket shifter. The shifter in post #8 is a Hurst. I don't know how or if the shift rods interchange between the three. I have a complete Inland in my car and a complete Hurst comp plus set up in a box, but it...

68 used both Inland and Hurst shifters. What do you have now?

It's a big job just to find out if works. If it doesn't work, it's a big job x2. Not something I would try.

I run the factory Inland shifter, but I don't recommend it.

I got a stock replacement clutch kit at NAPA for my 340, Formula S. It was the best damn clutch I have ever had. Easy on the leg and smooth operation. It lasted one week........

Is it disengaging the clutch? That's the important thing.

Made 2/26/71

Yup, I agree. I was going to post when this thread was made but really didn't know what to say. The 833 shifts smooth and fast unless you have a worn out shifter and bad internals.

The overcenter spring should be used with a B&B pressure plate but I'm not sure if that's your problem. Are you sure you have the right rods for your new shifter?

So did it shift fine with the old shifter?

Yes. That gets the shifter oriented to the trans, assuming you have the right parts installed. If that doesn't work you need to start looking at other areas.

1. Remove the rods from the trans levers or shifter (One or the other.) 2. Pin the shifter 3. Make sure all trans levers are notched into neutral 4. Adjust each rod so it easily goes into the center of it's corresponding hole. 5. Install the rod retainers. 6. Remove the pin. Your...

What shifter do you have? If you have a Hurst comp-plus with the stop bolts, these need to be adjusted in 3rd and 4th (NOT 1st and 2nd). But like mentioned, you need to pin the shifter, get all of the levers on the trans in neutral then adjust the swivels. Also check the condition of...

Try adjusting for 1" of free-play at the peddle and see what it does.

Not something I would want if very much of my time was spent at 55 mph or more but really, your final drive with both a 4 speed and an automatic is 1 to 1 so it should be the same as what you have now.

Do you know what the gearing is in that thing?

I still think it's the rods or the way you are installing the rods.

Just post the numbers here.

Post some pics of what you are dealing with. Im guessing it's the rods or how you are trying to install them.

You can't shift fast or accurately when you have to fumble around on the floor for your shifter. I wouldn't even think about using the short one.

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SB213

Thrust bearing absolutely can cause these issues.

#1 Thrust bearing could be going away. #2 Most likely, improper adjustment caused by #1. Grab your harmonic balancer and push it hard to the back then pull it hard forward. See how much movement you have.

Many people on here run a Centerforce. A diaphragm or Borg & Beck (3 finger) will both work. I prefer a diaphragm style, I feel it offers consistently smoother operation over the life of the clutch. With that said, the last time I replaced my clutch i put in a Borg & Beck style and was happy...

Hell yes, pull that baby up on your chest then push it in. Those days are over. lol

At 40+ years old, lifting an 833 makes me poop a little. But on a positive note, other than the weight of the transmission, it's a simple job. If you have a lift and a transmission jack, it's a piece of cake.