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A radiator needs airflow. Without airflow, you just have a box with water in it.

Take pics of your fan, radiator setup. Also, when is it getting hot, idle or on the road at let's say, a constant 45mph+? I assume you are running coolant and not just straight water.

Last time I went through my engine I installed a mechanical fuel pump. It runs great but it started much better with the electric. My car regularly sits for weeks or months at a time without being started.

Wife's Bronco had a small leak in the radiator (I really should replace the radiator) I used the old "tablespoon of black pepper from the kitchen into the radiator" trick and it has been good for 2 years. lol

I hate to say this again but the stock stuff fits and works. When it comes to cooling most of the problems come from trying to reinvent the wheel.

If your some of adjusters are maxed out and things keep needing adjustment after you run it, my guess is your cam is wiped out.

This radiator blocking design is showing up more and more often now. It must be the fashionable thing in the car world these days. And everyone has the same cooling problems.... It's like covering your 62" big screen TV with a piece of cardboard that has 2, 20" holes cut in it.

You have a nice big radiator blocked by an aluminum plate. That's your problem.

Yes, we are all friends but we are not mind readers.

I would like to see a pic of the fan mounting. If you have a mounting plate with 2 holes for the fans, that could be your problem. We have seen this more than once.

You didn't tell us a thing about your cooling system. When does it get hot: Idle? On the highway? Both? What temp is it running? After market or factory gauge? What kind of fan do you have? Do you have a fan shroud? What temp thermostat do you have? What's the age and...

Where is the remote for my TV?

x2. I have ran these of several cars over the years.

Can you guys tell me how much my watch is worth?

Just suck up the wait and order a set from Smith Brothers.

It's fine. My 340 has the same oil pressure.

It costs much less to go from small block to small block than it does to move up to a big block. I would recommend a 360 also.

200* is not hot.

Run a cable.

Yes. Whatever you need to get the push-rods and lifters out. You need new lifters with a new cam, you can't reuse the old ones.

Did you take the lifters out?

The single biggest problem with A-Body cooling comes from people trying to reinvent the wheel.

The quote from abodyjoe, post #5 is: "if its a dc k-member its worth less." As in, not worth as much as an original. Worthless and worth less, have two very different meanings.

Also, try a different brand of belt. I had this problem years ago on a Chevelle. Just changing belt manufacturers solved it.

No, the fender tag will not match the vin on a 68. The fender tag will match the order/body number. In other words...... On a 68 the Fender tag should match what's stamped on the core support.

It lets you say..... Dude! Check out my oil pump!

Yup, even on a race motor, you start with the basics. Check the plugs too. I always work from least expensive to fix to most expensive. lol

You must have a 1 of 1, 68 Formula S that came with the 3/8" fuel line option.

Not that it matters but your 68 Formula S came stock with 5/16", just like they all did.

Am I confused? I thought M = 440 not 383.