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Folowing!!

“There are about 521, 672 postings on the web that will tell us that it's fine to run without a kd and you can just shift it manually.” … which is why it’s incorrect to call it “kickdown” linkage, which IS one of it’s functions, but the correct term is “hydraulic pressure” linkage.

Possibly. I would think the 2-3 shift should be the same as the 1-2 shift, albeit really early, in that instance. If it shifts from 1st to 2nd properly, with kickdown linkage adjusted correctly, but not 2nd to 3rd, I’d say you’re looking inside the trans.

You want to set your kickdown at wide open throttle, not idle. You also may need the Mopar throttle adapter to get proper throttle and K/D geometry.

I believe that's for column shifters...

Good to know. :thumbsup::canada:

AJ....whats this “3/4 race cam” stuff...you’re more exact than that...lol:steering::steering::thumbsup::lol:

My chart doesn’t give any info on that, sorry. Would those numbers have anything to do with the 10,000 day calendar? Maybe someone else will chime in with info.

Dodge truck, 81, 6-225 A727, B,D1/2/350, long extension, 2wd. Dodge Plymouth, 82-85,6-225,B/D1/2/350, long extension, lockup converter,2wd. I think lockup should have electric connection on the case somewhere?

Well, that'll teach ya for using them inferior F*rd parts in your superior MOPAR!! ;-)

if you have the stock style replacement bearings, you need the thrust block, as Ma installed. I would just lop off the 3/8".

up til '72...small bolt pattern ; '73 up w/front discs...large bolt pattern...axles will not swap.

I can appreciate all the engineering/fabrication to make that bracket setup, but I would just buy the correct bracket...$50 or less....... not worth many hours of my time...

I agree with JohnnyDart here. Forget about the kickdown and get the throttle opening up correctly. Then add the KD linkage and adjust that. I'm using the 2 bbl throttle cable and KD trans lever on my 4 bbl stock cast iron intake 273, with the correct Commando/Charger 4 bbl throttle bracket, and...

There should be .008" to .018" clearance in the axle end play.

I lucked out finding one that bolted right in...it was from a 70's a body with 904 and 8.25 rear.

DANA or not....It ain't gonna fit, Cletus!

Motor size doesn't matter...a combination of levers in the KD linkage will get the movement you need. You can try changing the lever at the trans...they're available in different lengths for different throws...and , yes, a spring from that 1st pivot to the throttle arm stud will solve the return...

You can adjust it way up there, but at some point the k/d linkage will prevent the throttle from fully opening...that would be too much!

2538380 = '66 B body 440

Shifter knob should look like this (or center knob a bit higher) when in Park or Neutral to allow shifter cable to enable you to shift to 1st gear...

If the OP would read the linked post, he'd know which housing he has, but to save him some time, here's the info... Courtesy @cosgig...and @Bad Sport Before the 1970 model year, the splitter block was located up on the hump of the center section a bit! In 1970, it was moved down the drivers...

Here's the thread you need... 8 3/4" rear axle, different vent positions?

Yup...jack up the back end and none will come out. I just got finished changing out the rear end in my '67 Dart, and no fluid at all came out when I pulled the driveshaft.

This stuff OK to run in my newly rebuilt 8.75 clutch SureGrip?..... CRC Posi Trac Limited Slip Gear Oil Additive, 207 Milliliters - 742508 https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/PEB550042083 Thanks guys.......

Actually, it's the other way around...when the rear hangs on the springs, the dust boot is compressed a bit, but when the rear is jacked up as if it's sitting on its tires, there's about a 1/4" gap from boot to yoke.

OK, thanks all....I guess I was just being over-carefull. After inspecting the old 7.25 driveshaft yoke, the boot seemed to running in the same location as the new yoke.

Thanks. Cars' not a daily driver. The reason I ask is I'm changing from 7.25 rear to 8.75 and have a driveshaft thats supposed to fit...measures correct. When I let the rear end hang on the springs, it compresses the boot a bit against the front of the slip yoke (doesn't seem to be hitting the...

The 904 trans in my '67 Dart has the rubber dust boot on the end of the tailshaft, covering some of the slip yoke. Is that dust boot actually required, and is there another seal inside the tailshaft? Can I remove the dust boot part without causing any damage anywhere? Thanks all.

Thanks guys...back of car is up....changing 7.25 out for 8.75....thinking I'll have change speedo pinion because of 2.94 to 3.23 gear change as well.