Easiest 727/904 rebuild thread...

[j par]

Right, you didn't say what you pried against to remove the pump...BUT YOU SHOULD HAVE. Fools are going to be breaking off the direct drum (front doohickey) lugs. Most pumps won't come out that way anyways. You have to oil around the pump; like with some WD40 or Land-O-Lakes; who cares...but dry is a fight. I don't even like the stuff you're using to clean them up...Easy-Off baby! I'll be watching; ready to pounce with more technical blue bla.. Oh, and when you go to the car wash, pull forward so you can set your parts over the center grate; it keeps the car wash guys happy; so they might not kick you out. And tell them that you're using non-petroleum based, water soluble EPA approved biodegradable cleaner....that's what I had to tell my SoCal car wash owner in order to get him to let me stay..foreelz.

So first of all I want people to either go to the thread you have on this and follow all of your advice or to temporarily Skip by your comments because you're making stuff up that I don't even know what you're talking about and again I'm trying to unconfuse this process not make it more confusing so what you're talking about literally irrelevant and soon I'm going to ask toolmanMike to dial you back so I can go ahead and do this process if you have something at the end at it but I didn't pray against anything to get the pump out if that clarifies something for you...
It's a trick I learned from watching a professional build one of these and when he was taking it apart he literally said you rookies and pop the pump out instantaneously. So if you want to do it the rookie way like you do it go ahead you can show people the rookie way but I rewatched and rewatched that video until I finally figured out with a slight of hand what he did and that's what I'm showing pop the pump out extremely quickly without doing any damage to anything....

 

[CudaFactHackJob]

3 drums. front; direct; reverse/high.....forward.....reverse; low; low/reverse. The front drum is used for third and reverse, but since it's the forwardmost drum, sometime people call it the forward drum, but it's not....and the second drum (not second gear) is called the forward drum cuz it's used in all forward gears. Maybe we should start calling the forward drum the middle drum??

 

[CudaFactHackJob]

Go ahead and have me banned. I'm surprised I've lasted this long on here.

 

[j par]

Go ahead and have me banned. I'm surprised I've lasted this long on here.

You're funny you make stuff up constantly no one's going to have you banned I don't think anybody has the power to ban somebody else...
You're totally turning this into your thread I wish you would just start your own so you can tell people all you know about transmissions...

 

[fishmens67]

Go ahead and have me banned. I'm surprised I've lasted this long on here.

Take a hike, go start your own guru trans guy thread. lol

 

[jimjimjimmy]

Go ahead and have me banned. I'm surprised I've lasted this long on here.

I rebuilt a C4 for a guy one time. He called and said it didn't work; wouldn't even move. He said he revved it and nothing. Had a new torque converter he bought off a buddy... So he brings the trans back along with the converter. I said where's the converter? He picks it up out of his trunk with one hand; like an 8" donut...5k stall...His old worn out 302 two barrel couldn't even rev high enough to hit stall.


says the guy who made this statement

 

[65Val]

Folowing!!

 

[j par]

I'll get after this 904 in the morning...

 

[j par]

This is the way I used the small block piece of C-shaped metal to push in the spring to release the snap ring to open up this 904 drum... This is a 4-5 year old picture from the first time I did a 904... There is a special tool you can buy that compresses this but this is the poor man's way of doing it especially for someone who's only going to do it a few times in their life...
I just did the 727 last year in the power wagon and it also had one spring loaded ground and one that was just very simple all you had to do is take a snap ring out. The 727 spring loaded one as they recall was quite a bit more simple but I'll get to that one of these times soon... I'll see if I can find a picture....

Also here's a picture of some of the parts spread out on a 4-ft x 2 ft sheet of plywood on some chairs. Again this is to debunk that I don't have enough room excuse... Again this is from a number of years ago this picture...

 

[j par]

Now I remember what those little pieces of metal were for on the 727 one was to put my c-clamp by scripts to get the reverse servo snap ring out and one to get the snap ring off to reverse servo... Also a picture of the 727 short shaft spread out on my workbench when I had more room lol...

 

[j par]

I like laying everything out in a row but you can if short on space everything in two or three rows just in succession. I like to take a lot of pictures in case I can't figure out how something goes back together. But in general you can't get this wrong. It just won't go back together wrong...
There's a couple spacers that need to be in the right spots and there's a couple brass washer style separators or whatever they're officially called they just need to be placed back in the right place.....
What I do is lay everything out in a row and clean the outer case nice and clean. Then I rebuild a subsection and put new rings clutches lip seals whatever have to do switch it over to a clean paper towel in the same order. Then I just reassemble everything. They're special transmission assembly lube and all that but I just use generic Vaseline and lots of it. I definitely soak any new clutches and transmission fluid for at least a few hours if not overnight...

 

[CudaFactHackJob]

This is ridiculous. You're telling beginners to take apart things that even seasoned rebuilders don't disassemble. Remove the shaft from the reverse servo piston? OMG why? Soaking clutches OVERNIGHT? That 727 reverse servo spring retainer looks like you installed backwards. The spring will pop off center and **** the piston sideways; losing reverse. Go back to school.

 

[Dartsun]

I like this thread better with cudahack on ignore.

 

[j par]

This is ridiculous. You're telling beginners to take apart things that even seasoned rebuilders don't disassemble. Remove the shaft from the reverse servo piston? OMG why? Soaking clutches OVERNIGHT? That 727 reverse servo spring retainer looks like you installed backwards. The spring will pop off center and **** the piston sideways; losing reverse. Go back to school.

The spring was broken and that's why I had to take it off and replace it... You do realize once installed the clutches will be soaking for the rest of their lives LOL...
I never went to school for transmissions that's for sure..
Maybe you can answer a question for me why does every transmission I rebuild end up working flawless? The last one I did in my power wagon with the 408 stroker works perfect...
Here you go again making up Boogeyman scenarios to scare people away from trying it themselves.. this was the whole point of my thread that even a beginner can do one of these simple transmissions. It's easier than falling out of bed... But you keep going ahead and trying to poke holes in what I'm doing then keep the scared people scared but I'm going to get the brave people to do it themselves and save them tons of money...

 

[mopowers]

The spring was broken and that's why I had to take it off and replace it... You do realize once installed the clutches will be soaking for the rest of their lives LOL...
I never went to school for transmissions that's for sure..
Maybe you can answer a question for me why does every transmission I rebuild end up working flawless? The last one I did in my power wagon with the 408 stroker works perfect...
Here you go again making up Boogeyman scenarios to scare people away from trying it themselves.. this was the whole point of my thread that even a beginner can do one of these simple transmissions. It's easier than falling out of bed... But you keep going ahead and trying to poke holes in what I'm doing then keep the scared people scared but I'm going to get the brave people to do it themselves and save them tons of money...

You know, if you quit responding to him, he may leave your thread alone.

 

[j par]

You know, if you quit responding to him, he may leave your thread alone.

True he's just making things up and spreading misinformation which was the whole point of this thread to get rid of a lot of that boogeyman stuff so almost he's able to make my point for me...

 

[j par]

So again trying to knock out all these "reasons" somebody wouldn't try this at home for the first time. I'm trying to keep an accurate account of tools, time, and space.. the pictures should depict very little space, nothing as far as tools that you couldn't buy at harbor freight or make along with a little bit of hillbilly ingenuity, and time...
For time once the initial power washing was done just to knock some of the heavier crud off of it which it still needs a good super cleaning and I'll probably paint it as well. I've got an hour and a half into taking it apart and I would say 45 minutes half of that time was just getting the pump out of the front the rest just pretty much falls out after that...
The first two pictures will be of my bench set up ready to go. A little pile of tools, a little shoe box size box on the bottom right to catch the exterior stuff and little baggies of nuts and bolts and accumulators. All bagged and tagged. A couple pieces of 4x4 about 11 inches tall to set the back of the transmission on to kind of stabilize it on the bench. On the back corner a strip of clean paper towels to lay everything out as I took it out..

To give you some perspective you can see my truck is right there I barely have room to fart...

 

[j par]

Okay the first thing I do while it's up on end like this is take the shifter levers off which would be the pressure valve lever on top and the shifter lever they should just loosen the 7/16 I believe bolt and they kind of pinch fit on there once they're loose you can unsqueeze the pinch fit then gently pry them off... Also the transmission mount to 5/8 bolts.. underneath the transmission mount is to large Phillips head bolts that hold a little plate on and behind that plate is a snap ring that goes around the bearing on the output shaft. Once you get that off you have access to spread that snap ring to pull the tail shaft off. But just before I spread that snap ring I go ahead and take the six or seven tail housing bolts off 9/16 bag and tag them throw them in the box. Now I tap the tail housing a little bit to break the gasket loose between the tail housing and the main case. At that point I reach my snap ring pliers in there spread that snap ring as far as I can give a little wiggle jiggle on tail housing and it pops right off... As I look through my pictures here I forgot to say that I take the nut off the speedo sender thingy and it's just a fork like a distributor holder. I scribe it to make sure it's clocked correctly when I put it back in. But once that holders off it should pop out just like it distributor.. do this first before taking the tow housing off.. also in the box with the blue tape is the stud that sticks out of the front of the transmission for the starter it's just like a carburetor stud course going into the aluminum and find threaded for the starter nut.
I'm not sure that all these pictures will come up in order but this should depict everything I just said..

This all took less than 15 minutes..

 

[12many]

My first 727 rebuild was pulling the trans on my back in a gravel driveway, the actual rebuild done on a piece of plywood on top of two 2x4’s laid across two saw horses on the back concrete patio with a tarp to cover everything, and drop lights for night work. Washing the case with engine degreaser and a garden hose. An oil pan filled with gas and/or mineral spirits. And no Internet forums with step by step detail or pictures. Just the 1966 factory service manual that I read over and over and over. No factory tools. All improvised.
People today got it made with forums, detailed color pictures/videos. Honestly, The worse part is pulling and cleaning it. The rest is a cinch.

Good thread @j par

 

[j par]

So next is taking the pan off the bottom just half inch bolts. Then I use the 4x4 post to lay it back on so it's facing the pan upwards. Then the 10 7/16 bolts to get the valve body off. There's three flat head screws holding the filter on but I just left it on at this point. These are identical in both 904s and 727s. I just left the bolts right in it picked it up out of there and put it in the pan for now.. also once that comes off I've got my finger pointing at the parking for all that goes inside the tail housing. That slides out but first you pull the pull up on it a little bit to get the shifter post out. Now this exposes the center accumulator and it's spring sometimes it has a spring sometimes it doesn't. Bag and tag it.. also a picture of my coffee can full of used gloves and my brand new gloves my favorite harbor freight kind. The black ones are a little too thick and you only get 50 per box for the same amount of money these blue ones are a little thinner but you get 100 per box and you can see any dirt that you're taking off of anything on your gloves. I keep the old ones for taking stuff apart like this that made it through the first wearing and of course brand new gloves on all new assembly and cleaning...

 

[j par]

Okay let's start getting the guts out now we're going to start getting into the real thick of it.. first we got to take the pump off the front I think there's six or seven bolts and I believe they're half inch buzz those out.. now what I do here is I will point it out there's an adjuster on the outside of the transmission for that front band. It has is a 3/4 inch lock nut on it that you loosen way up and use a 5/16 wrench to go ahead and tighten that band snug. When you pop out the pump this kind of holds the guts in there temporarily. Now I get a long screwdriver and reach past the band and get it up against the pump and give it some very light taps you don't want to get carried away but you're trying to do is push the pump out. This is a hillbilly way of doing it really fast instead of a puller... You can usually get some TAPS in on either side and the top. Again do not get too carried away here but do remember you are tapping against pretty thick cast iron so you're not going to do more than just scratch the inside of it.
This method has worked 100% of the time until today! LOL

 

[j par]

Something a transmission guy would have would be a puller special for pulling a pump. So what it is is the pump is put in with smaller bolts and there's two of the bulk that have larger threads that you can use to pull on the pump to pull it out.
I did a little bit of a hillbilly deal here where I took a couple of the tail housing bolts which are the correct size and used one on a piece of chain with a piece of bar and used a wedge and you can see the way I pried on it. What I really did was just got some good tension on it and gently tapped on the pump itself which gave way to that tension. After that I gave it a few more taps from behind on top and it popped out..
Also pointing out on the back of the pump there there's usually a spacer washer of some sort and this is something that can be added to or subtracted from for the final end play but I've never messed with it I just put everything back the way it was and it's usually fine..

 

[j par]

At this point I go ahead and loosen up that for most band adjusting that and adjuster actually just taking it completely out and there's a little tab that goes over to the lever take that out bag and tag it. Then you can pull the forward most drum out over the input shaft and set that on your table next to the pump with the band still wrapped around it so I know where it goes...

 

[j par]

Next you should be just able to grab the input shaft and pull it out with its drum full of clutches and steels..
I'll do pick these first three subsections on the paper towels.
So far easy right? Remember at this point I'm probably about an hour and 15 minutes and again 45 minutes of that was trying to figure a way to get that pump out.... We're not to the 45 minute point of the rest of it yet...

 

[j par]

Okay one more little snap ring and the rest of the transmission is going to empty out...
You'll see the picture here with the rest of it still in there's a spacer that's brown right there in front make sure that goes back in and is put in its order. Undo the snap ring along with it and put it in succession on the table... Not back in tag this as you cannot forget to put it in it's basically holding the rest of the guts in...