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Thanks, I am asking for a picture of the part number. Here is the one from the bell- 8F254553

Other than above the pan on a 904, are there any other spots on the trans where a part number would be? Trying to figure out the year and what it came in originally. I am being told that 81a6129 is the only number on a trans for sale (out of the sellers town or I would look myself), yet that...

This is great info, thank you

I see that some A999 transmissions came behind v6 cylnders, so does the bellhousing from the v6, fit a small block v8? Edited-

66CudaGirl, what type of radiator are you using? Got any pics of it? I have a 318 also so was curious about the lower outlet.

What kind of rear shocks/springs do you have? I have a set of these which are labelled for towing/hauling for our cars. MONROE Part # 58496 Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting; Sold In Pairs For Towing & Hauling; Rear I would sell em to ya if you need, as they dont have much mileage on em and I will...

I figured the beefed up series was slightly larger. I was referring to other parts not made in the usa, yet good info thanks.

Myasylum- Your first pic of the yoke, shows a low point on the left hand side. A light tapping with a rubber mallet and a light dab of grease would probably make it slide right in. Supershafts post confirms a tight fit too as he has installed tons of these over the years. Unfortunately so many...

Are those driveshaft rings/loops perfectly straight? Could have twisted slightly over time depending on how much power your putting down. I remember mine were a very tight fit, heavy duty spicers. Double check the other 2 crosses with the caps in the picture, aren't shorter. I think I remember 2...

Want to replace my aging rubber trans mount for my 904, yet any benefit going to urethane over stock rubber? thanks all

Thanks. Hopefully I have enough wiggle room to drop the cross member, as it currently has dual exhaust (tight fit).

Will a jack supporting the rear of the trans work, when swapping out the rear trans cross member? I got mine back from TTI (modified for an early-a with dual exhaust). I was going to loosen the trans mount bolt at the rear of the tail shaft after using a jack to support the rear of the trans...

Idle might be too high. U-joint might be toasted. Could be a simple leak from shift seals. Get under car to see if you can gauge what area the leak originated from.

So I have the correct shumacher mounts for my 318?

Can someone school me on 318 vs 360 schumacher mounts. I think the ones on my 65 are wrong. It has a 318...the passenger bracket has 4 bolt holes when the 318 block itself only has 3 bolt holes on that side. The driver side has 4 bolt holes, yet the bracket on that side only has 3. Car...

thanks all. Looks to be a 68+ b-body housing

Nope its a peg leg. Are the b body housings worth anything? I have an abody so no use for it.

Got a 3.23 peg leg 489 pumpkin, and a 2.76 peg leg 489 pumpkin. Are they worth anything or just get rid of em? I was going to keep one since I have a 741 in my 8 3/4 currently and like the gear options better on the 489.

Very easy, yet I would let the shop do it. I learned the hard way that the wrong adjustment can toast a trans. When was the last time you had an adjustment?

Thanks bluedart...is that from ujoint to ujoint center? I heard it was 49.5 u-joint to u-joint center...hmm Got an a-body 8 3/4 sitting around so i might as well use it! I know it adds some weight to the car, but dont trust the 7 1/4 in there!

Can anyone tell me the length of the driveshaft for an 8 3/4 to a 904? Trying to guesstimate how much I need to shorten my current one to fit my early a-body, since it has a 7 1/4 right now thanks!

I really hope they flushed out the trans cooler lines, and put in a new torque converter. Both items hold gunk/metal/etc from before your rebuild.... Price sounds right for socal

Ive got the tool. You can have it. Just pay shipping. It will remove the big seal. Mine wouldnt clear the tunnel in my 65 valiant so it was a wasted purchase on my part. The little seal will indeed need the vb to be removed, as that c clip is a pain when under the car

"removed the swivel and had to push the leaver into park myself.at that point I cant move the cable forward by the 2 nuts and there is no threads left for the swivel to move forward." Is the cable kinked on anything or bent too sharply around something? That is the first thing to check. I had...

Jack up the car and find out what year trans it is...I got mine from napa and its a quality seal too!

Update: Trans needed a rebuild badly-thanks for the help all Lots of the parts/clutches were scored badly and were slipping (hard parts replaced) Ill post some pictures later

72 a-body 318 trans http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf

Do you have any vibrations on the highway, cruising, etc?

Thanks for the advice all Funny part is, after driving the car on the freeway-full warm up- it kicks back down into first at stoplights...weird huh I am going to have my mechanic look at it and see if he can figure it out

new fluid, new filter...they were quite dirty even though not many miles on the new fluid. Cleaned out the valve body and checked all valves for scoring. Car runs better...kickdown is off though, must of reset the linkage incorrectly. Still getting a shudder sometimes if I hit the gas...