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The white bushing is typically between the outer jacket and shift tube (visible in the OP's pic. Retainer clip is also visible). The shift tube rotates within the bushing. There may not be anything between the shift tube and steering shaft at the bottom and that could be considered 'normal'.

No, that's a Rocky Mountain Dashes dash insert. They're no longer in business. It is heavy-gauge aluminum.

Looks familiar... that's my old dash :D I believe I still have the pieces. But then, that's why I went custom...

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/steering-shaft-repair-kit/dorman-steering-shaft-repair-kit/962355_134110_0

Looking forward to the next installment...

When I did mine I decided the controls are so simple I didn't need to worry about labeling. (Don't use the heater for that matter). I just blacked out the area. Clean and simple, like the rest of the dash.

No pics but if I recall it runs along the driver side rocker under a metal flap or cover. Then runs into the trunk area right along where the inner wheelhouse meets the floor. I believe there are little tabs spot welded there that bend around and retain the harness in place. Do you have one of...

Dum dum strip caulk.

These may or may not be of much use to you - but just in case... Scroll through the Body.pdf till you get to the door/glass section. The DoorParts.pdf is pretty unreadable.

Nice job!

From what I can see you have what you need to install the headliner. Remove the seatbelts. Don't mix the bows up. There are listing hooks on the very back bow that hook into the header panel above the window - I think I see them in your pics. Those hold the rear bow in place as you install...

I would but you really need the seats handy and dimensions to double check everything. I can tell you that I made each pair of brackets from two 13" lengths of 3/4" angle iron and four 2" pieces for mounting tabs. Tack weld the bolt heads to the tabs to act as studs. Short bolts with nylock nuts...

I fabbed some brakcts that utilized the factory bucket seat holes in the floor. The brackets bolt to the sliders.

Yup. For the money, I like them. They're firm but don't bother me. The trick with seats from Summit is getting a pair that aren't damaged during shipping. They're not packed well. If they do get damaged, Summit just sends you another.

Not all that helpful, but you can see the trim in question laying out in this pic.

It's been awhile, but: You'll need remove the cardboard interior panel below the window. Then there's a handful of screws to remove. (See photo). There is a u-shaped piece of metal trim along the roof line that covers a pinch weld and the edge of the headliner. 2-3 long screws hold it in place...

oldkimmer beat me. Like he said, unless you have tiny hands, like gymnastics, and are a glutton for punishment, pull as much from the dash as you can. Attached is a pic to help you locate the studs.

Yes, there is - and I don't feel it has anything to do with the roll pin in the hinge mechanism. The mounting hole in the glass is fairly large. Loosen the screw where the hinge attaches to the glass. Push the hinge as far forward as possible while tightening the screw. This may or will...

I will be sealing over Rust Oleum Rusty Metal (Red) Primer which is an Oil Modified alkyd formula. Will it stick? You would have to ask the company to be sure. But in my opinion, I doubt it will be an issue. The stuff is a very sticky substance while uncured and will bond to just about...

I gotta agree with the others: From my own experience, Lord Fusor is the ticket - though you will need the special mix gun. Fusor 123EZ or 129. The latter cures pretty fast. Even brushable seam sealer in a can would be better than that 3M stuff in the caulk tube. It's probably not a whole lot...

Unless your floors are really messed up, I'd look for the dimples where the factory would have punched holes.

The headliner does not need to be glued at the front - only the gripper teeth hold it. Edges will be hidden by the windshield gasket. I'd also trim it away from the pinch weld to allow a good seal. Good reference here: http://restorick.com/tech/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5

Did it on C-Body assembly too. Removed the odometer as an assembly. Didn't have to remove any clips. A little like a Rubiks cube but once figured out it was easy. Involved rotating the tumblers starting on the left.

I used 5/16" LED indicators light these from Painless. Painless doesn't seem to show them anymore on their site. http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=5%2F16%22%20indicator or http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ph-80205

Ha! Yeah, I have mine adjusted all the way back.

When I built my car I bought a pair of those and think they're great. I'm 6'02" and wanted head room. I made my own mounting brackets from 3/4" angle iron that would drop into the factory bucket location (floor dimples). They're just the right height for me - in fact, I have better head...

If gluing the truck weatherstrip in, use 3M Superweatherstrip adhesive - black - in a tube.

Looks good - I like those bezels around the gauges too.

I take it you got it apart then?

If you choose to make a tool I'm sure you could come up with a substitute or fab something - like a large fender washer with screw holes in the right position. I had an extra retainer so that was the quickest/easiest thing to use at the time. I got my bearing off of ebay at the time but...