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Pic is small but you can see the cable (with heat sleeve) comes around from passenger side, across front of bell housing, and into bracket.

I've used both the Ford Racing and Mopar friction modifiers. Price about the same online - Mopar a little less.

Pan, dipstick tube o-ring, and shift selector seal are common leak points. Front pump, tail shaft, and speedo sender are others. In your case you might check the dipstick tube. Feel around the top of the case where the tube enters for oil. They can be tricky to locate as fluid will gravitate...

Talked to Pat a few years ago and he said he was ready to retire - which it too bad for the the rest of us. More info on the valves here: Jeff's 727 rebuild thread I see an early style aftermarket one from A&A Trans for $95 727 3-2 Kick Down Module (1966-69) - A&A Transmissions

Allen was weird but they don’t thread far into the valve body (Cope) - least they didn’t for me.

FWIW, the only thing I didn’t care for were the 3 filter screws they supplied with the adapter. It didn’t seem there was much thread engagement with the VB. I chose to use the screws from the MP pan/adapter - which are longer.

I went from a MP deep steel pan and the fancy late style gasket that seeped (properly torqued) to a Moroso deep aluminum and their blue gasket (93110). So far, so good.

I run Green bearings but not the MP set. If they're still selling the first gen style you might want to consider the second gen style with snap ring. Doctor Diff is a good source of these and he explains the difference: Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain The green bearings have...

The front fitting of the trans feeds the radiator. Follow the lines.

Other than having lots of rags handy to wipe your arms off? Not really. Loosen and remove the two levers on top. Remove the three bolts at the front and rear of the VB and 4 around the accumulator (10 total). Lower the VB. Unless someone has removed it already, there'll be a large spring between...

...and there are dedicated tools to do the job (that you may only use once in your life). I have one in my tool box somewhere. Supposed to be able to do it without even removing the valve body. Example: Chrysler Shift Lever Seal Remover & Installer 1960-2002 LIKE T-1031-A / KD-2392 | eBay

I’ve installed the Bouchillon setup on more than one vehicle and really like it. I’d consider the factory procedure only a starting point. Once you’re in the ballpark then a tiny adjustment (as others have said) can make a big difference. You can adjust at the carb brackets or by depressing the...

This is the type I run on mine. Has a much more positive seal.

As mentioned: fresh o-ring. Be sure to clean all the RTV off and don't use it. Then figure out a way to secure to tube so it doesn't flop around.

Covered with a piece of Thermo-tec sleeve and routed as mentioned above. This is an older pic with some changes since but the routing hasn't changed and never an issue.

You're on track. I think you'll be happy with the Bouchillon setup. It's more robust than the Lokar stuff, IMO.

Well, there is an initial adjustment that is considered 'correct' in the FSM and is a starting point. In reality you will probably need to make some fine adjustments. A 1/8" adjustment of that bracket can make a difference (like if the the 1-2 shift is late or it doesn't want to shift into 3rd)...

A shot of the one we installed recently on my sons BB truck project... You can do the initial adjustment of the kickdown cable as instructed but fine tuning of the shift points must be done by driving. A small adjustment of the cable bracket, fore or aft, can make a big difference.

How about you post pics of what you've done? As long as you've followed their directions and used the supplied or suggested bracketry, you should be good. I've used them with Holley and Edel.

Not an expert but here's what I came up with based on a 10,000 day calendar chart and the 4 digits after the ID number. 1/1/68 = code 2348 2551-2358 = 203 203 days after 1/1/68 (or day 204) = July 22, 1968 Day Numbers for 1968 The first page of this chart of ID numbers doesn't match your...

Pat "Torqueflight Patty" Blais, as mentioned, has been talking retirement for some time but if he's still kickin around he could give you definitive answers and provide you with the PTK valve. Nice guy to talk to and knows his stuff. Might try calling 206-365-1966.

Lots of suggestions so far. I routed mine left to right in front of the trans inspection cover with a piece of Thermo-Tec sleeve over it. This is an old pic but you can see it hugs the trans pretty closely.

I guess it really just depends on the style and model of shifter.

Similar to the plate method mentioned by junior. Bolts welded inside/through the tunnel. Standoffs for leveling.

Nice! Love the exhaust note too.

I've used one like this from HF several times. More maneuverable than a floor jack. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html

While I was locating a photo, 80fbody beat me to it. There's no way that pin would have come out unless the retaining "finger" in the tail shaft housing was missing. In fact, it only partially covers the pin, but retains it, nonetheless. If you can slip the pin back in the case right now, then...

IMO, 1/8" is nothing.

Check with Pat Blais (TF Patty on Ebay as 64Dart mentioned). He is a TF guru. There are only two styles of PTK valves - and each is quite different. It will depend on which year valve body you have. I got one from him and added it to a '68 727 - works great. He's very helpful and generous with...

Mine goes through a grommeted hole in the tunnel, veers to the passenger side, and loops across the front of the inspection cover for a straight shot in. A thermal sleeve protects the cable.