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I got a reman unit from my local autozone and it works just fine.

I didnt think the masters were different from power to manual, just from disk to drum. You will need a different pushrod though.

I got everything from a 73 dart- UCA's, spindles, calipers, brackets, splash shields. You dont need the LCA's. My drums ones worked fine- the Lower ball joints are the same size drum to disk. The uppers are the larger ones. I cant help you with the F body stuff- never did any research on it

I would measure both the rotors and the bolt circle to be sure of what you have. Someone may have already changed it to the BBP which would be 4.5 inches. Measure from the outside of one stud to the center of the third stud. The size of the rotors should be cast into it. I've got the 10.87...

Better Hurry on this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-brake-distribution-block-proportioning-valve_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2c50499bd9QQitemZ190325562329QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I would guess that if you tighten that bolt on the flat metal retainers that it would make it harder for the caliper to slide like its supposed to.?

That looks like the same setup i got off of a 73 dart. I think they're 11 inch rotors (10.75"). Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I dont know why the caliper is worn down like it is though.???

I think those are access holes to make your adjustments??? They should have the little rubber plugs in there I would guess to keep debris out. You may have put the wrong shoe in there (maybe too wide) and it was riding against the one plug. Just guessing here but do you have a pic you could...

From what I understand a disk brake master will have a larger resevoir in the back required for disks. Not really sure what you have on there now. I guess I dont fully understand the first part of the question. I put my calipers on the front and I run an aftermarket sway bar too. Jut had to...

I did. The 8 3/4 drum brake hardware was cut at the e-brake cable so I just used the 7 1/4 set up I had already.

Me too. Leave the old inner pad on there and use a c clamp on it and behind the piston housing and slowly press it back in to give you enough room.

I THINK the BBp 7.5 stuff is a direct bolt on to either the 8.25 or 8.75. Someone who knows for sure will hopefully chime in. Like I said, I'm pretty sure but not positive. Do your 7.25 inch backing plates have 5 mounting holes or 4? My SBP 7.25 had 4.

No problem, I think those drums are hard to find- I could be wrong though. Good luck with it!

I think I follow you. Yes, the 2 1/2" drum backing plates would sit higher than the 1 3/4". What size are you trying to run? I have a set of 10 x 1 3/4" backing plates under my workbench. I snagged a set of 2.5's off a dodge pickup for my rear end.

I dont think so. I'm pretty sure they sit farther in toward the center section the wider your pads are since you cant change the flange on the axle.

what car are you working on? that price seems high...

It should look like the one on the left in the front.

I had to whack the piss out of the lower ball joint with a BFH to get it out of the LCA. I was buying new so I didnt care about marring the threads. You will need a master cylinder that has the larger rear tank b/c front disks will require more fluid. You may also need a proportioning block...

I think they're called spreader bars. SOmeone will chime in with where to find them I'm sure.

Bad check valve on the end going into the booster??

i would assume the ones pointing up. I wouldnt think you could get all the air out opening the ones on the bottom.

I did the 7.25 to 8.75 swap with yukon BBP axles and 10 x 2.5 inch brakes off a 74 dodge pick up. I used the original cables and end clips from the 7.25. Didnt change a thing and it works fine.

are you sure its a rubber band and not a new seal for the piston?

Me again. When i swapped out to disks I used factory parts from a 73 BBP dart. Depending on what type of prop valve you have you may have to change it out, I didnt. You'll need a different flexible line I would think, but I have never used the wilwood kits. You'll definitely need a master...

If the drums got red hot they may have warped a little giving you a pulsation in the pedal.

It sure looks to me like the calipers need to be switched side for side. I would think that the bleeder would actually be more to the top and that Brit is right about the air pocket.

I think I said that backwards. Did you swap calipers after you swapped spindles?

Something looks funny there. Did you swap spindles when you swapped calipers from side to side? I dont remember that brake line going into the bottom of the caliper like that. Mike

I used 10 inch brakes from a 74 dodge pickup that had an 8.75 in it. you'll need the backing plates too though, I think the offset is different for the smaller 1.75 inch shoes. I gave 50 bucks for the whole set up here locally.

Mullinax had the same kind of issues. You may want to read through this to see if it helps, if you havent already. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=28531