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I have always loved the looks of those 2-dr cars. and I have always wanted one. But If I had one, the absolute first thing I would do is install tubs big enough to accept at least 275s on at least 10s, 295s on 11s would be better. and then a narrowed rear end, and for sure, slapper bars, and...

IIRC that .039 gasket is around 8.8cc, so yes, compared to the .020 factory steel shim, is is costing you about 6/10th of a point of compression, and a V/P of 5 per the previous post. Now, 5 doesn't sound like much, but from a V/P of 95 with that 8.6cc gasket to a V/P of 100 with the 2cc shim...

There you go. The combination of the late-closing intake valve and the accompanying loss of cylinder pressure, is your lazy start. If you look at the opening rate of that cam, going from 230@.018, to .200@ .050, you can see that it is about 1* per .001 lift. Therefore from .018, back to a cold...

Is that a factory 273? rated 9/1? but now with .039 headgaskets? which would then make it an 8.4 Scr engine. So now, with the factory cam, at 8.4Scr, and say 400ft elevation, that should make about 147psi with the factory 273 cam, that had an Ica of around 48*, which you-know, was pretty modest...

Q1: is that robbing power? Answer; Of course it is; it takes power to drive any fan. But, On the street, with an automatic and street gears, you'll probably never feel the difference Q2: should I leave it be? Answer; If it ain't overheating, then leave it be Q3: is the clutch an option? Answer...

Since everyone is guessing, My guess is that ; 1) the Ideal pressure will fall in the range of 26>30psi, and 2) For touring; the right pressure to run, is the one at which your tires last the longest, running the tread off more or less equally from side to side. From that Ideal setting you can...

65 Valiant 200 wagon, what a HotRod that was with a 340 in it. I Bought a 273/904 take-out, for parts, from a friend of a friend. I used the 273 engine mounts, the engine brackets, the A904/TC with it's tri-pot flange, and and I think it came with a suspended gas-pedal. The only exhaust...

I shimmed my engine up and level, dimpled the pan, then leveled the link to the ground-plain; problem solved; even ran the slanty link. BTW those headers are awsome.

people, have a tendency to chase a specific horsepower level, which, for racing, once you get into top gear, you gotta. Read this and skip the rest; The quickest way to performance, on the street, is with stall and gears. For a streeter, horsepower per se, isn't all that important. Because, you...

Switching to a 360 in an early A from a slanty, is a whole new ball-game. BTW IMO, the hands down best solution to the exhaust system, is the IIRC5204 Hookers which split the primaries on the Driver's side to two down the inside and two down the outside, of the frame rail. Second best would be...

The stock 360 has so much low-rpm power (compared to other stock SBMs that in your lightweight-A, you won't actually need true duals, nor even headers. But if you go that way, and take advantage of the 360's torque, then at least, you won't need large diameter pipes. Furthermore, for a...

I once removed the K and once was enough. Way easier/way faster out the top with a tilter. But with a 4-speed, It's so easy to pull the trans first And if the trans is out, It's quick and easy to drop the BH and clutch and FW too, I mean I'm just laying around anyway ............. lol. And then...

Has anyone mentioned the Hooker 5204s headers? On the Driver's side, IIRC they are three pipes down and one thru the apron. Back in 1975, I did the 340 swap into 65 A100 wagon, with full Hooker fenderwells. On the street the lack of tire clearance was not that bad, as I recall , so the 5204s...

I have one of those that I used to use. I found the splits a lil too far apart for a streeter, and I broke a few od gears in the learning process. I switched to a Commando, and have had no more breakage. I like this idea, and here is my 2cents; Again, running 65=2400. To use the Overdrive...

I used the 4L80 for the ratios I had on file, being lazy, to help make my point. The 200R4 is definitely a better fit.

If I was to do it in an early-A; I wouldn't. If that statement irks you, read no further. What I would do and have already done is; I'd just install an engine with more torque and gear it to fit my needs. Part-1 of the reason, is this: it is impossible, with the factory-type distributor, to...

Sounds like you flooded it. If you have done this several times, the gas ends up on top of the piston and during cranking gets onto the cylinder walls where it washes off the oil, and eventually most of it gets into the oil, with some of it going into the exhaust system.. With the oil washed off...

Having said all that I thought of something else. Before I would go to all that trouble, I gotta tell you this: 1) if you have a PCV valve, make sure it is working correctly. 2) if you have power brakes, clamp the line shut. If the idle-speed changes and stays changed, that booster is sucking...

If the engine runs for 20 seconds, with the throttle at a more or less a normal position, then I would NOT suspect a jumped chain. I would suspect, 1) a non-vented fuel-tank, or 2) a perforated jumper hose, probably at the back, between the sending unit and the main supply line.. When this...

If the vacuum has changed AND, the timing has changed, AND it takes a lot of throttle to achieve rpm, then in all liklyhood, the Timing chain has jumped. There is an easy way to check chain stretch; just crank the engine over by hand until she meets resistance, Then crank it the other way...

The Wallace Calculator estimates, on a 300hp build, 45hp loss, going from sealevel to 5000ft air density, which is 15%; and is the equal to about two cam sizes. Not a chance will I ever again run hot underhood air into a carb sitting on a performance engine, and, especially not with the...

I doubt it. and even if you could, the tricks that you'd have to pull, I think, would negate the advantage that it offers.

If the headers are the under-chassis type, I would certainly try it. I have used this method many times on the 67 up A's, always with good success. But, I install removable studs, in the end holes, of each head to hang the headers on, and hold them in alignment, while I struggle with the bolts...

What triggers the MSD? Is it a magnetic Pick-up? I have experienced exactly this, if the pick-up is wired in reverse polarity. If you change the polarity, you will have to reset the base-timing. There are threads here on FABO explaining how this works. Another thing that happens with so much...

That'a a pretty good trans. I put a 340 2bbl in front of one and ran the snot out of it for a couple of years.

A normally aspirated SBM? That would be a tall order to start with, and not at all 3.55 friendly. And I guess you are gonna tub the 65 then, and at least back-half it?

If it was permissible for me to be jealous, I would be. In 1975 I had a 10 yearold A100. Man if only I still had her! I put a 340 in mine, then drove wheelnuts off it for two years, until the transmission said enough. Then I sold that gem, and got married. I was such a dope. I mean for not...

Drill the hole too small, and swedge it out to fit. This will provide good support for the line that you are gonna braze in. Another option is to send the return into the filler tube

Good eye professor. Otherwise, yeah, looks nice. Now for my checklist; Did I remember to; install the internal oil-gallery plugs, and the separator cup-plug in the supply-line, and I oriented the rocker shafts correctly, and the rear cam-plug is not gonna fall out at under 4psi .... and I...

pics?