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I'm going to be doing the conversion soon. I know what master cylinder to get, but wanted to get some thoughts on this kit from Inland? 1963 Dodge Dart GT Dual Master Conversion M/C Lines w/Block 3pc, OE Steel

I borrowed a swedge cutter from an old guy I knew at the dealership in town. It was basically a thick hole saw that kind of looked like an deep well impact socket with teeth. Goodson still makes them. Ouch! https://www.amazon.com/Goodson-Swedge-Cutting-Tool-Studs/dp/B0009RJZUA?tag=fabo03-20 I...

From the EBC website about their Yellow Stuff pads The dust rating is similar to OEM parts. I was considering these pads but don't want to be constantly cleaning the front wheels. Does anyone have experience with these pads?

Because in your original post you said "The car stops OK, certainly nothing outstanding". My point was that I have the same set up and my pedal is rock hard and will lock all tires if necessary. Then I read that you have TWO brake pressure gauges? You're on a different level than me brother...

I have the same set up and my pedal is rock hard. Like others have said, make sure you have the rear brakes adjusted by pulling on the emergency brake several times to take up any slack. Compared to the nine inch drums that I took off, my car stops on a dime. Compared to my new truck with...

You're welcome. I have manual brakes.

I'll second the DD master cylinder. I've got four wheel discs with one of Cass's master cylinders and I have a good solid firm pedal. I told him what I had and he recommended one with the right size pistons. It's a late model aluminum one as well. Mopar Aluminum Master Cylinder Kit

I would say that if you are building a max effort full road race car and have the money to do it, run the six piston calipers. I'm running single piston calipers and have never run out of brakes...yet.

Try to email Cass? He’s pretty good at getting back with people. Address is on his site

Swedge Cutting Tool | Model A Suspension and Wheels

The proper way to remove the drum that is pressed onto the studs is to use a "swedge" tool. It's like a hollow drill bit that goes around the stud and cuts away the material holding the drum to the stud. Good luck finding the tool. I was lucky enough to find one at an old Chrysler dealership...

It looks okay to me? I think Right Stuff puts out a decent product. Looks to be a complete kit and would be a pretty easy install. If there is a World of Wheels car show in your area, you could pick up a Summit catalog and save 10% off of that price. When you throw in free shipping and no sales...

I've had those calipers on the rear of my Dart for a while now and have no problem with them but I don't run them hard like I'm sure I lot of other people do. I think they got a bad rap in the eighties because people didn't use their emergency brakes and the calipers get out of adjustment then...

I used this kit from Master Power only because I got a good deal on it. It uses the same basic parts. Cadillac calipers and GM style rotors. It was a pretty simple install and the brakes have worked fine so far. You must use the parking brakes because that is how the caliper adjusts.

I'm running this one from Dr. Diff on mine. Stock style discs on front and Master Power discs on back. Stock proportioning valve (disc/drum) was used.

Unless you're building a drag race only car, throw those 9 inch drums in the scrap pile. They may have worked in the late sixties, but will not stop you fast enough when the soccer mom in front of you slams on her four wheel discs because her kids are fighting over the DVD remote control. Lots...

I have four wheel discs with the MP aluminum master cylinder and NO proportioning valve. Pedal is rock hard and the brakes will throw you through the windshield.

My personal opinion is that you have more than enough brake to stop any A body quickly. I wouldn't think you would see much gain unless you do a lot of road course racing where the brakes heat up and fade. The only reason I went to four wheel disc brakes was that I got a smokin' deal on a...

You subscribed to a thread that hasn't been updated in four years?!?! Did you have any specific questions??? The search engine here is great. Just sayin

Yes, I used the Master Power brake kits on the front and back of my Dart. They are complete and contain almost everything you need to do the conversion except the brake fluid, but they are a little pricey. I got mine off of eBay both sets for $1000 because someone's project stalled and they...

I agree with RRR. I have driven many A bodys with drum brakes since 1978. They work fine under normal average driving. But with newer cars stopping faster, and people driving more erratically (texting, eating, etc) the need to stop short has become more important. Like others have said, I...

I think Blu is correct. That kit will require running green bearings (not going to get into that argument) and also big bolt pattern axles. It looks very similar to the kit that I used from Master Power, except it is about $500 cheaper! The MP kit uses Cadillac calipers and Firebird rotors...

I installed thousands of seals by tapping them in lightly with a hammer until they are flush with the rotor. Just use even taps and make sure it goes in straight. Oh, and make sure your bearing is in there before doing it!

Grab that seal with a pair of adjustable long handle pliers and lever it out. Put the top of the plier in upside down, grab a hold of the seal, and then push down. It doesn't matter if you tear it up as you'll be replacing it anyways.

Yeah, you shouldn't be able to pull the bearing out with out popping the seal out first. We need more info first. Were the 73 brakes complete when you bought them? Did you look closely at the bearings while they were out? They are cheap enough and replacing them along with the grease seals...

Another vote for non power assist here. Four wheel disc conversion using this master cylinder. We had to remove the proportioning valve and just make it a four way splitter, but the pedal pressure is not too great and the rear brakes don't lock up under panic stops. One of the best upgrades...

Thank you Bill for pointing this out. Every six months when one of these threads pops up, someone says to "just jerk up on the brake pedal". That advice cost me a lot of time and a dead battery when we didn't notice that the brake lights were on because of the bent bracket. Hope this...

Here is a link to one that Cass (Dr. Diff) is selling on Ebay. I couldn't find the exact one, but this one is similar and I trust Cass. Ebay link

Four wheel disc here. Factory aluminum master cylinder and stock four wheel splitter only. NO proportioning valve. Stops on a dime.

I'm one of those guys. I have the Master Power kit that uses GM calipers and discs. Let me tell you, adjusting the slack out them is a *****. One time I had to pull the parking brake handle twice!!!! :mumum: