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I don't know why you would need a booster. I have manual disks and drums and can lock up all 4 tires very easily. Also if you really want a booster, there will be one coming up in the auctions for Adam very soon. hint hint! Jack

Hey Tom Here is a link to my setup. It is near the bottom of the page. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=21167 Mine is a TCI and the cost was about $50. I installed it myself and it was very easy. It controls my front brakes for doing burnouts and I launch using my foot...

I should also add that these backing plates and drums are for the A-body axel that is offset a little different than the B's, C's and E's. Jack

I tried this swap as I had read that you can do it. My experience was that after drilling the 5th hole things still didn't line up perfect. I would think that you would have to use all of the brake hardware that came with the 7 1/4 plates in any case. If you are interested I have a set of...

I just put the whole unit in my vise with the vise holding the rod and the M/C hanging down. Then used my rubber hammer and gave the M/C a good rap. It came apart fairly easily. Just remember to catch the M/C before it hits the floor. Jack

I don't have Wilwood's but disk brakes are disk brakes. You need a proportioning valve from a disk/drum setup. I take it that your master is for a disk/drum setup. If not you will need a new master that has the bigger resevoir for the disks. You can pick them up at just about any parts store...

No it doesn't, but neither did the original. Jack

I don't know what's going on with your parts guy's Longgone, but Dave and I both got the Fenco M1627 rebuilts and they fit great. The retainer clip is installed and the rubber grommet is also installed. You just have to dig it out and install it on the pedal rod. Kevin. It is much easier to...

That is the same one I got Dave. It fit like a glove. Jack

Here are a couple of pics of the master that I have. Sorry but the best pic didn't download properly. Jack

Mine is now a manual master disk front/drum rear setup. The new master I put on has 4 bolt holes. I will get a pic for you tonight and post it in the morning. When I was at the parts store I asked for a manual master for a 73 to 75 Dart Sport. Jack

That is really strange Longgone. I assembled the piston rod and master and after that it was just bench bleed it and bolt it to the firewall. One thing I noticed was that it is exactly the same on the outside as the master on my power setup. Jack

I picked mine up today. It has the large res for the disks. Now it's just a matter of getting the rod off of my old drum/drum setup and bench bleeding, then installing and making sure it works properly. I picked it up at my local Shur-fit Auto, Fenco is the manufacturer, thier part number was...

I ordered a manual master today for my disk/drum setup. Got what I think is a good price to. $25 Can. This is a reman. The question I have is. Will the pedal rod from my manual drum/drum setup or my power disk/drum setup work with this new master? Jack

Got it all together. Thanks Dave. Jack

I have a set of 73-76 disk brakes for my conversion. When I got the original parts the calipers were not there. I have since bought new calipers and of course the instructions leave a lot to be desired. Which way do the plates that hold the calipers in position go on? I don't want to put them...

If it was up to me, I would reverse bleed them first. It is the cheapest thing to try if you can borrow the kit from somebody. Jack

When I was talking about pre-loaded it was the calipers, not the master cylinder. Jack

Something else I was wondering about Mikel. Is the travel distance of the pushrod different in the new master from the old one. If it is a longer throw then the connection point on the pedal arm would have to be changed to a lower position wouldn't it? Just thinking out loud. Pre-loaded...

Also, did the new calipers come pre-loaded. If not, then from what I have been told the reverse bleeding is the only way to get all the air out. Jack

Have you tried reverse bleeding them? I think that is what it is called. You pump the fluid from the wheel backwards up to the master cylinder. Jack

When I took mine off, I disconnected it at the pedal arm. It was just a bolt and nut. If you want to take the arm out of the master cylinder, I've never tried that. Jack

They changed the bolt pattern in 73. The disk brakes before then with the 5 on 4 pattern used a different rotor setup. It is available, but a little more pricey. Not sure where you can get them though. Also, I think the spindles are different for the 5 on 4 pattern. Jack

As long as the mounting bolt pattern for the booster is the same as the conventional bolt pattern, the only things you would need would be a piece of hose to run to the carb base or intake for the booster and maybe a couple of pieces of brake line if you have to extend them. Jack

Well, it sounds like I can cross one more thing off of my to do and get list. thanks Guy's. Jack

My car originally was a manual drum/drum setup. I have changed to a disk/drum setup that came with the car. The proportioning valve is off a power booster setup. Here's the question. Can I use the manual master cylinder with the power proportioning valve? Jack

The rotor's are 11 inches. and the calipers are front mount. Jack

The bushings I took out of the upper arm were the standard type. What is the benefit of the eccentric ones? Is it more adjustability? I also thought of something else. The disk setup I am putting in has the 4 1/2 bolt pattern. Jack

When I bought my Demon, there was a disk brake setup that came with it. How do you tell what year it came from? How do you know if it has standard control arm bushings or eccentric? I do know it has the bigger ball joint in the upper control arm. I also noticed that the strut rod bushings were...

Where do you guy's buy your brake parts at? Especially backing plates. They are not available new here. :scratch: Jack