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Excellent job on the research. Have you thought about switching to a manual box and running the inline motor EPAS units, like whats found in the prius? I think the steering box style is the problem with flow, the hydraulic steering racks probably take way less flow.

You can program an arduino to spoof the CANbus messaging for the Volvo pump to get it out of limp mode. You could even add a potentiometer input to the arduino to get variable pump speed or hook up a VSS input to have it do that automatically. That's assuming the Volvo can put out 2.7gpm when...

The load is rated up to 60 amps, but the EPAS unit won't pull that much full time. It can spike if you hit the wheel lock or a curb and try to load up the suspension against the EPAS motor, but under normal conditions it should be well below that. I haven't finished my install so I haven't been...

Yeah mine weren't and that's the issue. At least it was for me.

When I had my stock steering column, those pins were sheared off and when I pulled up on the wheel the inner shaft and wheel would slide out about 2 inches. I'm not sure if there were any components missing in the assembly that allowed that or if that's just the way it works without the pins. If...

The two I have are from an 04-09 Toyota Prius, manufactured by Denso. See this thread for more info.

Completely do-able. Depending on your setup you can do it a few ways. In my car, I'll likely splice the 5v VSS signal wire, send it to the arduino and calculate speed that way. If you have an ECU or data-logger that supports can-bus, and you know the messaging protocol you can just send the data...

I like the EPAS Performance kits, the variable assist and small parts are nice to complete the install, but I can't get over the $1.5k price tag. While the prices on the pulled EPAS units are going up a little due to hot-rodder demand, they're still only about $200. You can add the variable...

You could theoretically, but I think you'd have a hard time with the space constraints. You'd need header and brake master/booster clearance, and you'd also need to either bolt the EPAS unit to the firewall or create some sort of mount off the frame.

You don't need any modules from the prius except for the one attached to the EPS itself. All it needs is an ignition trigger, power, and ground. Without the canbus signal it operates in "failsafe" mode which operates the EPS at about the power it normally operates at 25mph. You can buy a module...

Personally, I like the drag race 4-link, more adjustability, and you can get a setup off Speedway for $300. Add a watts link kit for $400 (just noticed Speedway has a kit for $100), and shocks for $600 and you're at ~$1300. I'm a cheap bastard though. The DSE kit does come with johnny joints...

The upper arms look like the Gen 1 SPC adjustable, which IMHO are fine.

I pulled it up in to the car and out. Seemed to work, but I wasn't worried about scratching as I was rebuilding it.

Thanks, you're always helpful. I already put some pst big bars on, was just going to do the stock /6 bars for fun and give them to someone who could use them.

Can you bead blast t-bars?

Should we change the topic of this thread to bonehead moves to cheer YR up?

I'm ashamed to say I made the same mistake... and I was just as dumbfounded at myself as you are LOL You'll be good once you switch them.

Slide hammer on the threads, other end in the vise?

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals ^^that site has a bunch of FSMs for free to download

Ride height, perhaps you could post a pic of your car before and after you deflated the air shocks. It'd help us get an idea what the situation is.

If you don't want SS springs I have a feeling you aren't going to like +1 or +2. How do the upper shock mounts look?

Here's all the instructions.

DOH! Try this. The whole FSM is available here: MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Does this help?

No problem, I have pictures in my build thread. I'm doing the sealed bearing also, I'm going to chop the shift selector tube up to just past its support and cut the outer column tube to just past the firewall for more header clearance. I even went so far as to cut the shifter lever lug off the...

There's a How-to on here to put a sealed bearing in the bottom of the column, replacing the nylon one. If you wanted to do that now, it would be a good time as you've got it all apart and can put the shaft in a press to get the cross pin at the bottom out.

Hah! Glad you got it!

I haven't been able to find a '74 FSM free online, but that looks like a cover to me. I'd bet if you could bend those tabs out it would slide off and reveal its mystery lol.

This is from a '72 but it looks similar to me.

That pin at the bottom is absolute hell getting out. I didn't have the notched wheel in my column but I was able to find a diagram. One sec please.