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I remember seeing one major structural failure at N.Y. National Speedway (1/4 mile track) back in the mid 1970s. Some guy was racing a mid-sixties 'vette. He cranked the revs and dumped the clutch on the "green." The front end had lifted with one side lifting higher and higher than the other -...

I agree 100% with you 72 - any frame connector is better than none. Thanks for the video, longarm, that test was very informative and was similar to the test I saw some time ago. I like to think of a car body as a box, a box with a longer length dimension than width and height...

For what it's worth. Not more than a few years ago, I saw a test done on the net somewhere. It was essentially a static load test to evaluate body torsion. If I remember correctly, the rear frame rails were anchored to the test bed at about the axle location. A fulcrum was built of steel and the...

That is a great solution for the prickly problem of crappy factory tolerances.

Yeah, the sleeve definitely looks "S" shaped.

Do a search here. There are a bunch of posts on how this is done. You will need mounting tabs if your car never had a bar.

Is it OK to use anti-seize lube on the mating surfaces on reassembly?

Aren't those large washers usually supplied with shocks?

Interesting information on bolts: http://www.boltscience.com/pages/tighten.htm http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech-explained/2009/06/03/measuring-connecting-rod-bolt-stretch-part-1/ This one also talks about then effects on the threads...

Also, be aware that torqueing down bolts beyond specification will stretch the bolts and loosen the threads over time.

Nice. Necessity is the mother of invention.

That is a damned nice piece of work!

Necessity is the mother of invention.

Very nice! I like that a lot more than the tubular ones. I'm in.

About 30 years ago, I began to hear a metallic thump from the rear of my '68 GTX. It happened when I drove over bumps in the road. I bounced the rear bumper a few times, but heard nothing. I began to check for stability in the rear suspension. All good until I pushed the shocks around a...

Do you guys have an opinion about whether tubular UCAs with polygraphite bushings and built-in offsets are any better than stock UCAs with Moog offset bushings with rubber?

Check out the grease boots carefully before reassembling. You might consider replacing them if they are 40 years or so old.

Yup. I believe thast the downforce from the Superbird/Daytona rear wings didn't begin to produce downforce until around 60 m.p.h. Raking a car down on the front end will produce more downforce at speed, but also more aerodynamic drag. It is a trade-off and is best adjusted with trial and...

Anybody who can make a '67 Dart competitive on the One Lap of America event (Ehrenberg) has my complete attention.

Putting the battery in the trunk is generally done to take some weight off the front end; it's not much, but every bit helps on the track and with street handling. Just make sure that it was done right.

Raising any part of the car will also raise center of gravity. You would ideally want to have front and back of the car at equal heights for serious road racing, all else being equal. As far as aerodynamics are concerned, you ideally want to minimize total frontal area in relation to the...

Don't you just love FABO? :supz:

You could measure from the bottom of the rear end adjacent to the springs. Make sure that all tires are properly inflated. If someone had installed Super Stock leafs, there will always be a height difference between left and right. However, all springs will eventually sag, maybe one side more...

The general consensus has been to slightly increase the torsion bars from the factory size for the application. Remember, bar stiffness increases logarithmically, not linearly, so a slight increase, like around <0.10 inch, nicely increases handling while not increasing ride harshness too much.

I can't imagine any other way. The front inner fender wells are structural.

I would first check the height of both rear leaf springs. Then, bounce both front fenders separately to see whether they rebound (a broken torsion bar or rear bar mount in the crossmember would cause bottoming). Take a look at the torsion bar adjustment bolts in the LCAs; they should have...

Is the noise constant? Does it also occur when turning? Does speed have an effect on the noise?

My 'Cuda is not of that vintage, but I seem to recall reading that the location of the steering linkage or sway bar changed location. I can't remember. Somebody with more knowledge will certainly soon figure it out for you.

Is there much gain in "driveability" with rear frame connectors?