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http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/frsuto.html

try mancini racing for the tools

Buy a bubble gauge that goes on the front of the wheel. Better get good with a tape measure and a buddy as well for toe. Probably not as accurate as a full laser alignment rack, but then again...i dont trust others to work on my car. So this is what i used.

was the front end aligned after 'it was done'?

have a couple pictures you can share? either way you need an alignment. Both front tires looks the same?

Is only the other edge wearing? Or does it feather edges twords the inside? If its only the outside its positive camber, if its the outside wearing in, then its toe in. (toe will kill tires faster than anything...FAST)

Couple inches, you'd probably be best off getting the springs re-arched, going to a stock style spring, possibly if you have another hole in your front spring hanger using the upper hole (not sure if thats an a-body thing or not). I have SS springs and went 1" lower with lowering blocks. You...

If the manual specifically says that, i think you're askin for issues running ATF. As Rumble said..

My 8 3/4" bolts are 1/2". I torque them to 45.

45ft/lb for an 8 3/4" or 8 1/4"

Well of course to each their own, to do reak havoc on your shock towers over time which aren't made to support the weight of the vehicle. -Mike

i bet you'd really notice a difference tossing those airshocks.

You'd swap a big block into a auto-x car? Not my first choice, but to each their own! If i were to rebuild my entire front end in my cuda for nothing but street use. However, with enough turning capability to have some fun with. *I'd do tubular upper control arms *Poly bushings where i...

I run summit adjustables and super stock springs. My ride isn't too bad here

local parts stores usually have them in stock. you'll get better quality from summit or something in my experience. I didnt even put a socket on my old ones, just zipped em off.

attached

i think springsnthings.com has them, also any moog dealer should be able to get them as well.

i think you can use c-body tie rods/adjusters. I know you can for ebodies, not positive for A's..

If you are talking about the pin that holds the column shaft to the steering box you need to use a punch to get it out. I believe it is a 1/4" but dont quote me on that one. There are no allen screws or bolts in our columns.

We've used the ol baseball bat method before. Took an old wooden bat, had to cut it down. Stuck it in front of the tire, buddy put it in reverse and s-l-o-w-l-y backed up tucking the lip in. Each time going a little higher on the bat.

Yep your right, sorry I was thinking of the wrong threads. :tool:

Thats interesting. My 74 duster and 72 cuda had nothing but right hand threads on all the tie rod/centerlink ends

i ripped a replacement mount within a week of my 318 going in. i run a solid drivers side motor mount and a rubber passenger with no ill effects or worrying :D

PST as mentioned, has PolyGRAPHITE (not Eurothane) that does not sqeak. I'm actually sticking with a high-end rubber rebuild kit for my car. $185 from ESPO Norris Mc-Quay, TRW, or Moog. And $75 more for the big C-body 11/16ths Tie Rod ends/adjuster sleeves. $40 for new cam bolts and $170 for...

So your box is a 16:1? how is it parking and such?

yep, same here. i just dont like power really, for a new car..definately.. im going to manual brakes as well. to each his own :headbang: :salute:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mastbox.html i had my ratios mixed up. I might have to try the 24:1 alum if i cant find a non-firm feel 20:1

musta had that mixed up myself reading how many turns lock-to-lock. :salute: only thing is, this is what someone said about firm feel

I agree mancini has that alum 24:1 box for $330 which doesnt look tooooo shabby. but will be touchy on the highway i could imagine

i have 235/60s up front, so they arent the skinniest. but i do think the 24:1 sucker is too much. but something like 20:1 would be better all around hmm...thanks adam