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It's not uncommon to have a regulator mounted up near the carb. My Carter fuel pump doesn't need a regulator[?].

Wouldn't be hard to run a megasquirt on a magnum, I don't think I'd bother trying to cross-breed.

Thanks guys!

Would a '69 Dart have come with a vented fuel tank? I haven't been able to look mine over well, but I do recall a vent tube running along the filler neck inside the trunk. Would this be the right tank for me? Fuel Gas Tank 18 Gallon for Dodge Dart Plymouth Barracuda Valiant 192659123923 | eBay

Mix some high (pump) octane and don't worry. Thats what you should be running anyway, you're engine probably isn't so percisely designed that 89 will always be fine. Weather, as well as the variety of different gas stations will change what fuel is 'okay' and what pings.. Those Magnum heads...

So are you reffering to compression fittings from Ace?

I wouldn't recommend running copper lines myself. I went with aluminum and brass fittings, no problems. I used flare fittings from lowe's or what have you and haven't had any issues in about 15,000 street miles. roll from summit is about $30 or so of aluminum.

Just unbend it by hand as best you can. I had no problems eyeballing it with my stainless brake lines

May be a little rich, but not all that bad in my opinon. Edelbrocks are generally lean out of the box. However, you really can't 'read' your plugs like that. To really do it that method you would have to do a few things. To get cruising mixture you'd need to install a brand new plug, crank it up...

my primaries are smaller than my secondaries. by .003"

yep you got it right, rough weekend lol. What is your converter and gear setup?

Sorry i misread your first post, i thought you had a spreadbore holley. And you dont want a double pumper with most automatics. How high of a stall converter do you have? I've tried messing with a 650 holley vac sec, a used one. I've never had any luck with previously abused holleys for some...

Yes you will need a speadbore to square bore adapter plate which usually hurts flow pretty well. So keep that into consideration. Linkages are different, i run a lokar throttle and kickdown cable and i've swapped with no issues. Dual feed line as well. Watch your hood clearance with that spacer.

you would have to be running very cold for the fuel to start condensing and puddling in the intake/cylinders. I doubt its that cold. How cold are we talking..

Same pumps

thats a whole lot of initial timing, does that thing crank up fine? should be 10-14*. Is it only when you dead floor it, or can you 'roll' into throttle and it runs good

1) are the dowl pins still in the front and rear of the block. if so, remove them. 2) whats the history of the heads, wonder if they were milled

I dont mind my canister filter. I have the cheaper summit brand, wish i went with the fram setup. Seems to work fine here, filter has a lot of surface area.

I do not have a oil pressure switch on my electric pump setup. Didn't feel it quite necessary, i have a gauge and an idiot light for oil pressure. I like to hope i can turn the key faster than my carb will run out of fuel in the bowls before it dies. But, to each their own! Whichever route...

Have you checked the wire back at the fuel sender, to make sure it is atleast making contact? Also make sure there is a ground strap from the sender to the hard fuel line.

Are you talking fuel pressure? The issue with liquid filled gauges is the reading changes dependant on the ambient temperature around it. Making it, somewhat inaccurate even mounted outside the engine bay. Inside the engine bay, once hot, you can forget it for accuracy.

Maybe he was thinking the fuel sock could be clogged on the end of the sender? thats how i took it

Here is a quick method i have always done when starting up a car i just got. Take the inlet of the fuel pump, and stick it in a gas can. See what you get, that eliminates the entire rest of the fuel system from the problem. Prime the carb if you can (if possible, pour by a cup fuel into...

I vented mine with a little K&N breather deal the autoparts store had

cant flip that fram filter on its side or something? mine is. maybe upside-down...can't see why it wouldn't work flow wise. Not as easy to pump through, but shouldn't be any harder than trying to push the fuel back up to the outlet like it is.

i got a 3/8" edelbrock phenolic type here

Interesting, no vac advance now and it runs well. Maybe it was too rich at the time like 340 mentioned. :hockey:

Mine actually preffered full vaccum it seemed, ran good in either port. Throttle was a little snappier hooked up to full manifold, never had any issues. After running the cutouts most the time i did away with the vac advance instead of tinkering with it. lol

i wouldnt worry about adjusting it. thats not too common. if you search on mcmaster's website they have some little sandwich like motor mounts for stuff like that. I was looking at them for my holley pump if i needed them. Wouldnt hurt for some vibration dampening if you have the room

little floor jack can help you some. Its not too complicated, sender wire, two straps and probably some wd-40 on the filler seal. You will likely need to pull the filler neck out before trying to drop it which can suck.