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You can get airbag kits for lowrider bikes. Nikki was looking at them when we built her bike. They are totally pointless but still kinda cool.

That thing must be fun as hell to drive!

My 69 with the rear bags dumped... and with 100psi...

This is just going to turn into a "Holley Vs. Eddy" thread. :angry7:

So far the best shock set up I have found on a daily driver is a pair of air shocks in the rear with 60psi (stock leaf springs), and a pair of Comp Engineering drag shocks in the front (when you can get a pair that work out of the box). I did this on Nikkis 66 dart daily driver and it rides...

I have been running air shocks on my daily drivers with 60psi for years and have never had one problem. Not one broken or bent part at all!

AUGH, Don't drive that near my car until you get it fixed.

You will know if one is bad right away. It will be the side that is lower than the other.

That is a problem with them right out of the box. I have been running them on Nikkis 66 for almost a year now and they are great on a daily driver! But I ended up playing the return game with Summit a few times until I got 2 that worked right out of the box.

I just did this last week and I borrowed my friends socket and upper bushing tool but if I were going to do it again I would buy my own! The 10 minutes it took to take out both a arms bushings and balljoints and then install the new bushings and balljoints was well worth the $40 for the socket...

It's welded, I have everything put together and ready to go on the car tomorrow and of course I had to go and over tighten the last zerk fitting on the upper balljoint and snapped it off. So I have to go get a new set of easy outs and a new zerk tomorrow.

I am doing the BBP swap on Nikkis 66 and I borrowed the socket for the balljoint and the tool for the upper a arm bushings. I will say right now that if you are going to do this job you need these tools! I removed and installed both upper balljoints and all 4 bushings in about 10 minutes! The...

Remember that the balljoints are sealed to keep the grease in for the most part. If you do weld them in do not allow too much heat to be in one spot. If it were mine I would say just get a new pair of arms and not take the chance of it happing to you again.

Try a search, we had a big thread with pics a while back about this.

I have bought several kits from http://www.springsnthings.com/ with no complaints.

The difference is 1.6" between the two. What exactly will end up being the problem, worn seals, bearings, u-joints or the end of the known universe? I'm not talking the stock mopar to the book specs here I am talking real world experience. I won't be leaving it like that forever just a few...

Just wondering if anyone has done the swap and NOT changed the driveshaft. I have been hearing from guys that say "It's no problem" and others that say "oh god, your going to die if you don't change the driveshaft". What about changing the drive shaft but not right away, how long before anything...

If you still have it and it is everything for the rear I'll take it. Paypal? I will be going through Salt Lake on the 5th but it won't be worth the drive for you to meet me at the same place.

Here ya go! Its a Mustpuke but it's the same idea. Just clean the threads with a wire brush before you unbolt them. http://www.1969stang.com/main/content/view/27/47/

Yup. That or just let it rest on the ground with the tires still on and a jack stand under the front of the pumpkin so it wont pivot down. If you have basic tools, 4 jack stands and a floor jack you can do it. You wont have to kick loose any brake lines or the drive shaft. Just do one side at a...

Hell, the springs are easy enough to put in, looks like they have the front bushings in them, get a set of rear bushings from your local part store (under 20 bucks), do it yourself and save even more! Just clean the threads on the U bolts before you take the nuts off and it shouldn't take you...

Ahhh those are just rears, same thing just use jack stands and crawl under the car. Bolt the tops in first.

Put a floor jack under the K-member, jack it up enough so you can reach behind the front tire, unbolt the old, bolt in the new, remove floor jack, drive car, 6 months later they will be squishy and not as firm as they used to be. They are also nonadjustable so you don't have to worry about that.

I'm not drag racing the car. It is a 73 4 door slant six that is bone stock, it is my daily driver and I like a firm ride. I put the same shocks in my wifes 66 4 door slant six dart daily driver and it rides great. The only difference being that the pair in the 66 click where they are supposed...

I ended up putting the crappy KYBs back in for now. I am going to call Summit and see if they will send me another pair that actually work like they are supposed to. Lets see if I can get someone on the phone that knows their *** from a hole in the ground this time, Summit has been going down...

I liked the feel of the shocks on the 66 so I got a new pair of Comp Engineering drag shocks for the front end of the 73 but I'm having problems adjusting the little bastards. The ones on the 66 have the stock markings of XF F R and click each time I turn them past the letters..."click...

Keep the pics coming. I am getting ready to do a 4 link with airbags on the 48.

Look on top of your steering box, there should be a lock nut with an allen head bolt in the middle. loosen the lock nut and adjust the allen head bolt a 1/4 turn at a time and check the wheel for any slop. I usualy do this when I do any other front end work (tie rods) and then go get the front...

I ran air shocks for at least 6 years in my old daily driver. I kept them right around 60-70psi and they worked great, handled well and never gave me any problems or damaged anything. My old 73 Scamp had KYB shocks up front, air shocks in the rear with 340 rear springs and adjustable rear...

These are the Comp 3 way Drag shocks, I forgot to mention that.