4 link question

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blue missile

blue missile

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OK so I will relocate the leafs temporarily in board to the frame rails. Then I will put in a 4link system made by RMS called a street linx. It is also set up for the inboard location. The next question is : is it ok to use a sway bar with a 4link, is it necessary, or harmful.
Next has anybody used this system?
Andrew
 
A sway bar with four link is useless due to the design of the four link you will not have much axle roll. Hope this helps you
 
I thought a sway bar was used to negate body roll by transfering the energy to the other side?
Andrew
 
because of the way a four link is made the axle will pretty much only move up and down, if you are mostly going to use it on the street you would be better off with ladder bars and a sway bar.
 
The function of a four-link is to keep the rear axle in its proper place under the vehicle, even under hard acceleration or cornering. The bottom two links keep the axle in place front to back. The upper two links keep the axle from rotating and keeps the pinion angle constant. In a triangulated four-link, the upper bars also keep the rear end centered under the car so a Panhard rod isn't needed.

The RMS Street-Lynx is a triangulated set up. I have the RMS under my car but not on the road as of yet. Everyone that I have spoken to with this set up is all thumbs up.
 
i run the street lynx and it is awesome. yes you can run a sway bar with no issues if you find one to fir the car. hell its designed like a mustang suspension and they have sway bars.
 
Abody & SB,
do either of you guys have your spring mounts relocated inboard?
The lower bar in the linx normally mounts to the existing front spring mount, doing this puts it in place of the leaf spring and makes the minitub useless.
The installation instructions say you can use the system with the inboard location.
Abody since your car is on the road, how did the linx effect body roll, Im putting this setup together for road racing.
Andrew
 
mine are in the stock location.

never had it on a track or anything but i know i can hit corners faster then i have the balls for with the suspension. the rear suspension made a huge difference. not sure how to explain it though.
 
I personally don't know anyone running it for drag racing but give Bill a call or e-mail http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/help.php?section=contactus&mode=update he will be more than happy to answer any of your questions.He does give you the option of

(1)Choose from Adjustable links with maintenance-free poly/rubber bushings that isolate vibration
or double adjustable links with chrome-moly/teflon high strength rod ends for drag strip use.
 
oktire said:
is anybody drag racing with this set up
Click to expand...


i had mine t the drag strip a few times right after i installed it. my best 60' time went from a 1.69 to a 1.63. the rear suspension was the only change at the time. launches totally different.
 
I was going to put the Street Lynx in my drag only car but i'm not really sure its the right kit for drag racing. I spoke to Bill and he said that it would be ok if I added in an anti-roll bar because this would keep the rear level. So with the anti-roll bar, the street-lynx, the better Afco shocks, your looking at over $2500. I think i'm going to try the full Caltracs setup for $799 and then save my money to back half the car and do a real 4-link setup.
 
yea as fast are your going it probably isn't right for you.. bill says the cut off line is like the low 11's i think. the primary design of the street lynx was more for handling then the drag strip.
 
Yea, and thats fine...glad Bill was honest with me. I do run his Alterkation setup in the front and this is a great kit for the drag strip. I'll try the Caltracs and see how they work because my SS springs are ok but I know my launches could be better.
 
I like a ladder bar for the street not much tuning

12.jpg
 
BadFish67 said:
Yea, and thats fine...glad Bill was honest with me. I do run his Alterkation setup in the front and this is a great kit for the drag strip. I'll try the Caltracs and see how they work because my SS springs are ok but I know my launches could be better.
Click to expand...


thats one thing about bill. he will not sell you something you don't want/need. he doesn't pressure you into buying anything. hell he will talk to you for an hour and not sell you a thing...lol. awesome customer service.
 
Sometimes I cannot believe the prices people charge for the simplest things.
I forgot about the U bolts when I got the new axle. Now these are just Bolts!
I went on line and someone wanted $56 for four with nuts and washers! I then went to the auto parts store and they wanted $7 ea, better but still way too rich. I then found at a trailer place the entire kit 4 bolts and bottomplates included for $12.
I still had the bottom/shock plates from the 7 1/4 So I cut the perimiter off the originals and welded them to a piece of 3/8" plate and drilled holes for the new axle. Now I have a nice flat surface to put the lower link points on. I am going to hang the set up back on the car with the original leaf springs minus a couple of leafs so it will sit at the proper height.
Andrew

Rear axle 2.jpg


Rear axle 3.jpg


Rear axle 4.jpg


Rear axle 5.jpg


Rear axle 6.jpg
 
So I finally got the rest of the rear belly of the beast all cleaned up and started on the four link set up. First pic is the insert, I am just pocketing the frame for the lower links. The second pic is the insert in the frame, and the third pic is it all welded up with 1/8" reinforcing plates on the outside of the frame. I will drill and weld washers tomm.
Andrew

4 link 1.jpg


4 link 2.jpg


4 link3.jpg
 
Andrew,
Here's a pic of the swaybar on my clunker as we talked about in the PM. The lower link in the top pic is parallel to the ground, I just cant take straight pics on my back. Pockets in the frame look good.

-rjs

SANY1411.JPG


SANY1410.JPG
 
rj,
With all the work you have done to have good ground clearance those lower links look awfully low.
Also how necessary is the reinforcing of the axle tube?
Andrew
 
blue missile said:
rj,
With all the work you have done to have good ground clearance those lower links look awfully low.
Also how necessary is the reinforcing of the axle tube?
Andrew
Click to expand...

The lower links are 5" from the ground......pic angle looks deceiving. It's a smidge above the frame rail in the front mount and level, so it'll be fine

Backbracing the rear is cheap insurance, heard lots of opinions from 500hp to 700hp.......I plan on 550hp so I'd rather do the work now as opposed to when it's powdercoated/painted and all detailed.
 
heres the end result of the mod.Next I will hang the axle tube back in place on the springs.
Andrew

4 link 4.jpg
 
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