Upper Ball Joint came out while driving

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sublimeduster

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I have a 74 Duster. While driving today I hit a small bump, and it sounded like something dislodged. It felt like my brakes were having an issue. I jacked it up to inspect and could not see the problem. I cautiously drove it home. when I got home and pulled the wheel off, I saw the ball joint barely hanging on.

How do I fix this? I was advised that I should press in the new ball joint with JB Weld smeared on it. I have also heard that you can weld it once it is pressed into place.

I just replaced them two months ago. I am wondering if the ribs have just lost their bite.

Please advise.

Thanks,

Joe
 
sublimeduster said:
I have a 74 Duster. While driving today I hit a small bump, and it sounded like something dislodged. It felt like my brakes were having an issue. I jacked it up to inspect and could not see the problem. I cautiously drove it home. when I got home and pulled the wheel off, I saw the ball joint barely hanging on.

How do I fix this? I was advised that I should press in the new ball joint with JB Weld smeared on it. I have also heard that you can weld it once it is pressed into place.

I just replaced them two months ago. I am wondering if the ribs have just lost their bite.

Please advise.

Thanks,

Joe
Click to expand...

Either weld them in OR buy new/better upper control arms OR weld in new ball joint sleeves: 73-76 big ball joint only, can't used grease seals, better know what you are doing.

When you redid the front end....

Did you press the upper ball joints in?

Or did you screw the upper ball joints in?
 
My threads were also getting worn,so I tac welded new ones in place.
car pics 66 Dart 148.jpg

car pics 66 Dart 155.jpg

car pics 66 Dart 148.jpg


car pics 66 Dart 155.jpg
 
They are press fit it. I confirmed that before I started.

The old where a bugger to get out and the new slid in a lot easier using a ball joint press.

At the local parts house we looked and saw that a 72 had a retainer clip but the 74 did not.

Thanks again for your input,

Joe
 
They are not press fit ! They screw in with special sockets. The hex shape should be a clue. Well its not hex but a special shape like oil senders and such.
I see you joined here very recently so we'll forgive your not asking / knowing. Never expect correct answers these sort of questions from the kid at the parts counter.
Your options are replace the parts or weld them. Tack welds on the top aren't enough. Weld the underside. Good luuck
 
RedFish said:
They are not press fit ! They screw in with special sockets. The hex shape should be a clue. Your options are replace the parts or weld them.
Click to expand...

Thats what I was thinking. I did read somewhere (MM) that you could press them in also but every set I have done have been threaded. I always thread mine back in and never had one pop out yet.
 
sublimeduster said:
They are press fit it. I confirmed that before I started.

The old where a bugger to get out and the new slid in a lot easier using a ball joint press.

At the local parts house we looked and saw that a 72 had a retainer clip but the 74 did not.

Thanks again for your input,

Joe
Click to expand...


press fit?? who did you confirm that with? they are screw in.
 
Time to change mechanics if he told you there pressed in and held with a clip.Unless you control arms have been changed out?
 
pettybludart said:
Time to change mechanics if he told you there pressed in and held with a clip.Unless you control arms have been changed out?
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Yep!! This is probably (most likely) why they came loose, you "stripped" the streads, time for another control arm or arms if you did both sides that way, if you had the new ball joints in your hand, you could have seen they were threaded, this should have given you a clue right there, then if all else fails, ask the mopar guys on these boards 1st.
 
ohhhhhh nooooooooo yup as others has said they are screw in and take a special socket you can also use a pipe wrench to change them out but they'll chew it all to hell sounds like new control arms and ball joint in your future and if you took it to a mechanic to do this id get him to replace all of that at his cost!!! or atleast him get you new parts and you take it to a mopar mechanic i wouldnt weld them either
scary,.............just plain scary!
Terry
 
This might be a good time to upgrade to tubular arms. There is one kind that breaks, though. Maybe someone can recommend a good brand. Definitely replace both sides, it's not worth saving a few bucks.
 
ElFin said:
This might be a good time to upgrade to tubular arms. There is one kind that breaks, though. Maybe someone can recommend a good brand. Definitely replace both sides, it's not worth saving a few bucks.
Click to expand...

CAP are the ones that had a few break... i would stay away from them..

rms or firm feel are good.
 
RedFish said:
They are not press fit ! They screw in with special sockets. The hex shape should be a clue. Well its not hex but a special shape like oil senders and such.
Click to expand...

X2. This myth is perpetuated by the Haynes repair manual. I have no clue where they got that idea from. While the company states "every manual based on a complete teardown and rebuild", I don't think they got the front tires off the car for this one.

This kind of mis-information is probably why most on the forum recommend a factory shop manual. They are available from a number of sources. I got mine on CD from eBay for about $25.00. It is a photo copy of the real deal in .pdf format.
 
RedFish said:
They are not press fit ! They screw in with special sockets. The hex shape should be a clue. Well its not hex but a special shape like oil senders and such.
Click to expand...

Just had mine replaced in my 68 on Thursday. Friend of mine has owned a garage business for 30 years, and he had the special sockets to screw them out and in with. Mine were a real bugger to get out. I swear they were the originals. Air wrench wouldnt take them out. Had to use a 5 foot breaker bar.
The 68 are threaded for sure. Dont know when they changed from that.
 
Question. If he does actually weld the ball joints in. Wouldnt he have to hope that those ball joints last the life of the car. It would seem like alot of work to grind off the spotwelds later and also risk warping the control arm re-welding it, no ?
 
One of mine popped out and I welded that one in and it has been in for two years no issues.
 
Remember that the balljoints are sealed to keep the grease in for the most part. If you do weld them in do not allow too much heat to be in one spot. If it were mine I would say just get a new pair of arms and not take the chance of it happing to you again.
 
yellowghost said:
Question. If he does actually weld the ball joints in. Wouldnt he have to hope that those ball joints last the life of the car. It would seem like alot of work to grind off the spotwelds later and also risk warping the control arm re-welding it, no ?
Click to expand...
I tac welded mine in place,the threads were still there but getting worn.I had a wet rag handy for cooling down after tacking.My car is for 1/4 mile only,not a daily driver,so I should be fine.Unless they pop out after wheelies?LOL:toothy10:
 
Well this is not really what i wanted to hear. I know a guy who is parting out a 73 duster I may be able to get them. There is also a 74 dart in a local junk yard that is pretty complete.

I would love to buy the tublar but the pocketbook just won't allow it.

Thank you all for the input.

Joe
 
Screw in for sure, not press in. You can screw in the new ones, then weld the top of the BJ to the arm. IF the hole is really sloppy.....replace the arm. RMS has good UCAs.

If you weld them in, most likely, that will be the last set of BJs you install in those arms.....
 
yellowghost said:
Question. If he does actually weld the ball joints in. Wouldnt he have to hope that those ball joints last the life of the car. It would seem like alot of work to grind off the spotwelds later and also risk warping the control arm re-welding it, no ?
Click to expand...

I would think cutting the spot welds with a die grinder and welding in new ball joints could be done repeatedly without damaging the arms.
There is a U shaped collar where the threads were.
 
I think its "Speedway" that sells a new threaded ring that can be welded into the stock A arms. I wouldn't worry about weld distortion; its a ball joint with lots of motion and the rest of the car isn't built to tight enough tolerances to make any difference, anyway.
 
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