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Permatex Anareobic sealer.

Will you be running balled up paper for pistons as well? I don't see this ending well.

anyone who knows their stuff knows that bolt on's are a crap shoot. build a car with a goal in mind, and you'll have far better results. But hey, the crap shoot method sure is amusing to READ anyway.

sounds like you are not getting proper oil pressure to the lifters, OR the lifters are not pumping up as they should. Check oil pressure of the engine to see if its good. If it is, replacing the lifters is likely necessary. Also, in reading your post, you have a 66 Dart, but the 318 wasn't...

The real problem you may run into is finding a tach that will work with that drive. I'd check to be sure you can get all the correct parts before committing to using that dizzy. Also, most electronic tach's are a bunch easier to install, but old school stuff is fun to tinker with if you have...

Typical tight spots are around the trans to block bracing on the passenger side, and the steering and starter motor on the driver side. Also, once you install the headers, I highly recommend a front antiswaybar, which will cut down on the amount of pavement your drivers side header gets to meet...

Also, you'll want to take a look under the cover on the front side of the carb. There are two adjustment screws. one is for accelerator pump stroke, the other determines how far up the metering rods are pulled. I adjusted my former LB carb so the pump had a full stroke and the rods were pulled...

Are you using the stock valve train, the mechanicals, or going with a hydraulic cam? A 273 won't take much cam before it has a decent lope to it, and you probably don't want to lose too much cylinder pressure. A 340 Repro cam is likely the biggest you want to use, considering street use. I'd...

+1 on Cam bearings.

If it doesn't already have one, a shift kit is a good way to get better power transfer.

I had the plexiglass and I got a used syringe (minus needle) from a friend's cattle farm.

I'd look on the net, Tube Technologies Inc.

headers on an A body with any heads will be a tight fit. TTI or Hooker may be the best bet.

That would be the deciding factor... I haven't seen a crate 340. All the MP crate engines are various output 360 cid blocks.

My personal thought is that I'd dump the HEI and put a regular Mopar electronic ignition in it. That said, what you are experiencing should not happen. IIRC, those had an oil feed on the lower end, not sure exactly how that works in a Mopar conversion, but that may be where your problem lies.

You originally stated 11:1, with no description of static or dynamic, nor any cam specs. Since you gave us the very basics, most of us jumped to the obvious conclusion. Since you then changed the given information, it would be hard to tell you what to do. Which is why I advised you to work with...

Thats a very weird problem. Does the distributor get an oil feed? How are the bushings in the distributor? Do you have a positive crankcase pressure?

Your CR seemes to have changed since you first asked the question. You can boost almost any CR, but you have to have the equipment that will survive the pressure. Clearly one can cram 25PSI to a 17:1 CR, almost any diesel will do that. However, the variables you don't account for in your OP is...

WAY less compression.

How about more accurate degreeing of the cam and no stretch that will require replacing the chain to regain the proper degreeing?

You don't mention what heads you have, but I'd bet they are the answer to your problems if they are 273 or 318 heads. Also, you don't mention compression ratio, but the 273 won't make much power below 10:1, where the original 273 Commando was that or more. If you know your CR, and the heads are...

I use a carefully modified old dipstick to push the old seal out of the block half of the seal land. whatever method you use, be careful not to scratch the crank surface, or it will chew on the new seal.

The key to cam selection is to understand that force is made from cylinder pressure. Longer duration cams will "bleed" off the pressure, so higher compression ratios are needed to make up the difference. Also, a longer duration cam will make horsepower at higher RPM, at the sacrifice of torque...

The 71 block should have the same core as a 340 block, meaning it'll take a larger overbore, GRAB IT!!!

I used a 318 crank in a 1972 340 block. Check to be sure the crank clears the main webs. Second, I used the floating pin rods from a 318, and .030" 340 pistons. I don't see where there will be a problem balancing the rotating assembly, since my set up works fine.

I agree, there is something else going on here. It might be wise to investigate the area before sinking money into repairing a repair.

Hedman headers are less than $200 as I recall, just FYi so you have info to work with. I went with stock duals after the flowmasters, and 2.5 from the headers to the flowmasters.

Oil temp might be more interesting to monitor if a turbo is used, since they are more prone to "coking" the oil. Even then, a pyrometer is more useful.

Not accordint to the specs in my 1973 manual. All of those dimensions are beyond the .001" tolerance. The rod journals are to be 2.124" min and the mains are 2.4995 min. You might get away with the mains, but the rods are too small in my opinion. Its cheaper to cut the crank than to repair damage.

I used Hedmans on my 72 Swinger. They fit well, and cost fairly little. The website says about $200, and I think thats close to what I paid several years ago. Easiest way to keep the low hanging tubes from taking a pounding is to put a swaybar on the car. I had used a set of "Blackjack" headers...