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i welded a wheel stud to the differential and mounted it to that. You could weld a bolt to the frame.

I can virtually guarantee they won't fit in 17's. I look at them through the 20's on my SRT8 and they barely seem to fit. They would be an awesome upgrade, though. The brakes are one of the better features on my car. I took it to the track and it stopped beautifully. When I drive my Dart at the...

I had front disc / rear drum on my 73 Dart Sport. I went to four wheel disc and didn't change the master or proportioning valve. Works great.

I have the rear disc conversion for my Dana and also their chrome power brake booster / master. If you didn't adjust the rear calipers when you installed them and they were dry (no fluid) you will give yourself a headache. It can be surmounted, but it's a pain in the ***. I can help you if you...

Of course the pins should be lubricated. Any moving part should be lubricated. If you bought loaded calipers, though, the guide pins are probably already lubed. The pads slides on the bracket need to be lubed, however. You may have all new hardware, but it needs to be slippery new hardware. We...

Swies, Just a thought. If you can buy the another, take the master off and swap it, then return the whole unit for credit. It works out the same in the end. Or go to a Mopar show and buy one of these. They're cheaper than you think!

Crap, I can't edit in new pics. New post coming up.

I work in a shop. We run into bad parts all the time. When you buy a cheap part, you get a cheap part. It's that simple. O'Reilly, Advance, Autozone ... they all are there because they have cheap prices and cater to price conscious buyers. They average do it yourselfer wants cheap parts. Shops...

Jesus Christ, you got a bad part. Stop the world. It happens. Anything man made can break. O'Reilly's doesn't make it, they just sell it. This is what happens in the internet world. You save money buying online and have no local recourse. If you had bought it locally (And you could have. If...

That may sound like a lot, but it's really not. If you aren't up to doing it, a 12 pack and a neighbor or friend work just fine. The parts are fairly cheap. I'd take a weekend and some beer and go to town.

I turn the drilled and slotted rotors here all the time. No different than any other rotor, but as you say I know most shops will not do it. I have 20K on mine and the pads are still like new.

I have drilled and slotted rotors on my Dart. As you say, they are nothing special, but I went to rear discs and the set up included drilled and slotted rotors. I bought fronts off of eBay to match the rear. They are no better or worse than regular rotors, but I do like the looks. And they were...

Likely 3/16. Most brake line is that size. I was just working on mine this morning, but I couldn't tell you for sure.

You can. They ship.

I saw a brake booster / master cylinder combo in chrome at a vendor's table. The booster was smaller around, and I knew if I used it my Moroso tall fabricated aluminum valve covers would fit. After pricing aluminum master cylinders I figured it would be out of my league price wise. My brother...

My brother ran one on his 66 Charger because his cam didn't allow for enough vacuum. He is on this forum so you can ask him. He is notorious for finding cheap ways to do what he wants, so I know he didn't spend a lot of money on it. Send a PM to cu440da. Here's a link to his profile...

I love power brakes. Good, quick, easy response. I had disc/drum on my Dart and converted to 4 wheel disc with drilled / slotted rotors. I used the original master cylinder and booster and everything works great. I understand some people like manual, but I like my power brakes and power steering.

Ahhhhhhh! I know I'm not comfortable with it!

I agree with this professional diagnosis. You must be from out west. Around here it's proportioning valve no worky. :-)

I'd use a roloc disc and take it off first. Why foul the pads and change them again? Do it once and do it right and you'll never regret it.

Power brakes? Pull the master off the booster and look for fluid in the booster. Otherwise, look on the inside of the firewall and see if it's leaking back into the car. I personally would suspect wheel cylinders, but I assume when you said no leaks that you checked there?

I don't run a Hemi, but I run a Dana 60 with disc brake conversion. I already had front disc brakes. I used the original brake booster and master on mine and it all work beautifully. You big *** Hemi boys probably run into fitment problems because the motor is so big the master doesn't fit, I...

I didn't go Ford, but I went Dana with a disc brake conversion. Other than running new steel brake lines, I stayed stock. OE booster and master.

I bought my Dana with that kit or a kit somewhat like it installed. I used my OE master cylinder and brake booster. I had to make a few brake lines, but that is to be expected. I like the look and feel, but I had to go out and buy matching cross drilled rotors for the front afterwards. Left...

I can get it off. You have to hit it like you mean it. A little abuse goes a long way.

You take a 5 pound hammer and beat the hell out of the facing. You can spray some PB Blaster or other good quality penetrant in the lug holes and around the hub, let it soak, then beat the hell out of it. Sorry, but that's the only way.

Rear.

The price of everything is way high. I put in the motor, tranny, dana 60, leaf springs, caltracs, floor shifter, hood scoop, go wing, wheels, custom dash and more. With car purchase I am 20K into this car easily, and I still have minor body work and a paint job to go. If I drive on pump gas...

Tom and I finally installed the line locks on my Dart. I had so much fun I wish I had done this a long time ago. It just sits and smokes those tires now. We thought we would be smart and run power to the solenoid and use the switch to apply ground. That way the long wire through the firewall...