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Personally I’d like to see some with a larger flat added to the curved area.

We only had black and white the first time I saw it. No tights, I promise.

It’s not so much smart as been doing this stuff since the Wizard of Oz was in black and white. :D

Did you try pressing the stud up into it’s socket, then tighten it. Its actually common for them to turn if there is no resistance on the stud. It doesn’t necessarily mean the joint is bad. Heck, I have used a jack to put pressure on the studs before so the stud wouldn’t turn with the nut.

I like how the tie rod caps worked out. We used them on the Wife’s 72 Dart and they fit nice and tight.

Generally you’re suspension isn’t going to travel enough to expose the joint, but you are correct that there is no retainer on polys. The tie rod dust boots are the same.

A putty knife is your friend. Put it between the two parts and ramp it in there.

Can you wait until you have other pulleys on and see where you want the PS pulley?

In my case as long as they sell SG Dakota and jeep Cherokee parts for the 8.25 I’m golden. :D Then there’s also the yards with tons of those

Good choice.

Me thinks the tapered end goes rearward. Never accepted that type, and only use the 2 piece. Strut rod new style bushing install question

The 2 piece ones are WAY easier to install. I tried a set of the one piece, and what a pain to get through the holes.

From a company called Big Dog Auto.

Inertia hit it on the nose. FYI, all I ever do to bleed the steering system is to fill it about half way and turn lock to lock a few times running, then fill to about 3/4 full. I do the bleed with it half full because the air in it can cause a foam up and overflow making a mess.

Just a FYI, when you remove that sleeve the eye of the spring will close some making it a bear to get the new bushing in. I used an air chisel to open it back up then remove the tool and leave the chisel in place. One of the times the chisel shot out and went flying. Be careful.

Whichever way moves the upper ball joint rearward, as mentioned already. I do remember some installation instructions were wrong.

I think I would make a groove with my moto tool and a cutting wheel. It would take some patience, but should do it.

Just a FYI, you need to call PST to get the discount. I love my 1.03 bars as well.

A lot of good info so far, but I can add a little. When I first got my Dart it would darn near change lanes if I hit one of those reflectors in the road, and the feel of the car overall was exactly like you described. Scary huh? My problems were caused by badly worn lower control arm bushings...

I was wondering if anyone was going to mention that.

It’s also a real good idea to have a second set of eyes on the interior while welding even with the seats and carpet out. A soaking wet moving pad on stand by isn’t a bad idea either.

Same here but I went all poly except motor mounts from PST. 90-100 for hours at a time going back and forth to the beach from AZ. Those 1.03 bars are the ticket. 5.9 here as well, with a 42RH overdrive behind that.

Now that is some high quality H20. :D Great info Rob. I think everyone who takes that advice should tip you 20 or so, at least.

Silicone grease is what my PST bushings came with. I have poly in about everything but motor mounts.

I would suggest stacking the rest on lightly and see what the spacing on things ends up being. It should then be obvious where the issue is.

I have seen that a few times and wrote it off to the race getting chipped and the damage traveling on the more it was run. Awhile back I replaced my rotors with new and they came with the outer races already installed. Not knowing who made the already installed races I didn’t want to run my new...

Yes that is the outter shell of a rubber bushing. It comes out if being replaced with another rubber one, and stays in if using poly or Delrin bushings.

look how far off center that bushing has gotten. Also lower control arm bushings can absolutely cause what you described. My Dart did the shake randomly when i ran over one of the reflectors in the road. Think about the fact that a control arm moves and affects the direction the wheels point...

Hey all. Awhile back (years) :D I bought what I considered a fairly expensive steering wheel that is a two piece design. The problem started a few months back when the plastic vinyl covered section of the wheel started separating from the billet section of the wheel. The plastic is just too thin...

Well, not everybody.:D I run poly in about everything but the motor mounts and with those I keep rubber in the spools. Couldn't be happier with them.