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they also have an .810 bar for the very early a cars. Lawrence

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=321946 Lee Robinson is the name of the seller, his parts look fantastic used-- just fyi, Lawrence

my bad, forgot about the steering box on those also the strut rods are different on 60-61-- so forget using one of them for your car--.

60-66 interchange, if the bolt on K frame is rusty then your car has big rust problems. the frame rail replacement can be sectioned or the whole piece replaced back the the transmission crossmember. have your body man check them out carefully-- there is a member on here that sells very...

have you balanced your drive shaft? are your u joints good?, is the rear end mounts in good shape-- pinion angle good? just a few more items. any unusual noise from the tranny when this is occurring?

visual, width, difference-- you would need skills to modify the 62-66 K to work in the later cars,

I would listen to Hemi71x,. the ball joint change is the 72-73 years otherwise pre 72 are concerned with disc or drum brakes. Perhaps your front end has been converted to the later 73 style & this is why the fitment issue. You will also need to research the rest of your suspension for...

where is it stuck at? you can pry on the lca & use that to assist in removing-- or clamp 2 block of wood to the bar & hammer the wood or a large dowel rod placed in the rear mount & tap on that these are just a few easy cheap remedies that home depot or ace hardware will have available...

what are you offering for a refurbished control arm with new bushings & ball joint installed? Lawrence

is the new K frame un-bent & in good shape? you need to see if any local A body guys have a parts car or test k to verify-- these should bolt up to all 67-76 cars with minimal effort. if K is good then you have to get your bent frame rails fixed to match the factory specs-- I would not use...

use the search option-- this has been covered numerous times. yes you can put the 67 k in a later car-- advisable -- no! 67 is a 1 year only K & has some idler arm issues your other K is a spool mount K & is favored by many enthusiasts. people are looking to purchase the spool mount K all...

pretty easy eh!! i see you found one.

put up a want ad in the classifieds there will be more than one member with one for sale-- you just have to decide price your want to pay, Lawrence

also Lee Robinson on here sells nice used parts do a search, good parts, LAwrence

go to rock auto & compare the #'s , disc brakes ball joints are slight thicker than drum brake units, for the the years asked, drum brake units are the same Lawrence

if you are asking do the 9 " & 10" drum brake cars take the same ball joint-- the answer is yes--- your 10" spindle can replace the 9" spindle all things remain attached ,Lawrence

Not to rain on your parade but check out the mounts of the t bar before you start buying parts. In fact thoroughly check the. A rout then make your want list. Welcome Lawrence

obviously you did not rear redfish's post about swedged brake drums, sometimes you need to read before getting out the BFH, Lawrence

any pics? usually 60-61 valiants & another 61 lancer is the interchange-- pretty slim pickings, Lawrence

73-76 mopar "a " body cars are supposed to all have the larger ball joint upper control arm, Lawrence measure your upper ball joint.

yes, you have to match disc with disc 10" drum with 10" drum & 9" drum with 9" drum-- but the general idea is the same for all -- look at rock auto or big block dart to see what parts interchange with your ride.(compare part numbers) Lawrence

also possible mis-boxed parts, Lawrence

have you tried running the bolt from the other side? i do not know -- just a thought? Lawrence

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/moognumbers.shtml check this list out-- gives part #'s for suspension-- should assist in your quest, Lawrence

there are a couple of guys that constantly have quality used parts on this board--- if all that is wrong with yours is the front portion in the picture-- I would think replacing that portion would be much easier than taking out the whole rail, that is quite a chore & would require numerous...

yes rear seat floor --that is the difference--I thought I had a picture of the floor section-- will look later,Lawrence

hopefully you have air tools-- on the rear 2 bolts if they get tight when removing-- stop--wire brush if possible/ spray your penetrant of choice/ tighten then reverse --repeat until loose. Lawrence

did you look it up on rock auto?

if your frame rails shifts, attaching a core support, you have other issues. That k frame is solid -- your only talking about 18" of frame rail. cut a 2x4 to slight press fit between the rails-- no welding-- or get fancy with some all thread & a turn buckle type fitting-- allows you to keep...

4 inches?