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If the engine and transmission are parallel with the axis of the car I wouldn't worry about it. It is part of the reason for u joints. If you must address it (depending on tire location in the wheel wells) moving the rear one way or the other may be easier than modding engine and transmission...

Yes there is a npt style filler plug on the third member. Don't use the vent hole or you'll never get the level right.

Used an 8.25 T on my 8.75. works just fine. I did use a vented bolt though.

Ive been driving mine for a year now. Went from 904 auto to 833 O/D with 2.93 rear gears, McLeod "street" something diaphragm clutch. Pros: Blast to drive Aforementioned cool factor I have always just preferred to drive manual Cons: Don't really care for the diaphragm clutch. Will go back to...

Mine are Yukon too. I have the power loc diff though. I had to take out the thrust block.

I was under the impression you left out the thrust block for all green bearing installs. No?

On some of the 8.25 rears it isn't hard at all to rotate the tube in the housing. I did it with my hot slant six and dropped my driveshaft on the pavement. Some rear end builders weld the tubes to the housing with nickel rod. Others drill and tap the round holes on either side of the diff and...

Am I correct in assuming you cannot see the starter engagement with the quicktime bell? It is solid with no "ports" right? That starter seal would move the starter back a bit but not away from the ring gear. Do you have a spare starter you can throw in to help troubleshoot? I'd also look at...

If the 8.75 is an A body unit, and has a limited slip chunk and/or had a more desirable gear ratio, I'd do the swap. NOTHING wrong with the 8.25, but the 8.75 is a bit more stout, so it it also has the other attributes listed above, I'd do the swap. It ain't hard! I'm loving my upgraded 8.75...

That sucks. I've never had a leak there but I did have an 825 axle tube rotate in the housing one time. WREAKED HAVOC on my drive line until the drive shaft broke on the starting line. Anyhow I think welding is the answer on that one too. I believe they used some kind of special nickel rod b/c...

Should have mentioned "tow bar" myself...... Was $35 bucks to rent.

We used to do that after pulling the driveshaft. Worked fine

One other consideration. If you keep the tapered roller bearing s/u in the 8.75, it will handle lateral loading better. Important for those of us building corner carvers or auto x cars. Not so much for straight line speed.

Bettin Cass at Dr. Diff can help you out with that. Also, have the seller measure the diameter of the pinion shaft, and do a search on pinion shaft diameters. I'm pretty sure 741, 742 & 489 were all different diameters.

My go to guy on questions like this is Cass at Dr. Diff. He knows his stuff! DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components Best CE

Keep in mind that the cheaper yukon axles aren't worth zippy if you have 2 piece side gears in your chunk. According to Cass (dr. Diff) you only have about 1/8 inch of axle engagement with the diff when you run the 2 piece side gear with the yukons. Cass has axles that address that problem, or...

I got the otc bearing splitter like this one. I couldn't get it under the edge of the carrier bearings on my power lock unit though. Ended up cutting the old bearings off. I talked to Cass at dr diff and he said he uses the same splitter, but sharpened the the edges so they can get up under...

Usually it is pretty obvious if something is wrong. See where the contact pattern is on the gears. If it is very close to the edges if the gear check for thinning or a "knife edge". It'll likely be somewhere in the center of the gears anyhow. Look real closely at both the drive and coast side of...

X3. Cass will hook you up. I found an old power lock and cass hooked me up with 1 piece side gears and new clutches, and a bearing kit. I had a machine shop install the carrier bearings and did the rest my self. 3.23 is a good street gear. I'd use them if they are in good shape. As mentioned...

Well, just installed the spool one. And i believe I'll order up a poly mount for it this week. Thanks, CE

Okay, just spent 15 min searching to no avail. I have both types of trans crossmembers available to me. Is one inherently better stronger? Spool type vs biscuit type? Thanks CE

Got it on the bearings. I take this to mean that the diff will interchange??

Will a Power Lok differential, currently in a 742 case work in a 489 case assuming of course you use the 489 ring and pinion? If so, are the differential side bearings the same? Thanks, CE

I was thinking about the 1350's, but it seems that a 26 spline, 1350 yoke is pretty hard to find. Denny's has them for $205, which is a bit salty for me. I'll keep looking. Maybe there is a cheaper one out there. It'd be cool to do a 1350, but if that is the cheapest yoke I can find I'll...

Oh and what diameter tube would you all use, in which wall thickness? And why did the factory neck down the tubing in the ends?

So out of the 5 drive shafts I have, none will work with my combo. The combo is: 68 Valiant, 273 Engine (5.9 Magnum will replace 273 in a year or two) 833 O/D trans, 8.75 rear end. Since i don't have anything that fits I figure I can build whatever I want. Eventually this car will be about 400...

A cone is a cone and a clutch is a clutch. One can't be made into the other. You can swap a cone type for a clutch type in a particular model of rear. Check out http://www.doctordiff.com/drivetrain/mopar-8-3-4/

Well I found the problem. It dawned on me that I have an old used pair of 11" drums out there. So I got 'em and they fit perfectly. No scraping, and they sat flush against the axle face. So I measured them. From the rear edge of the drum to the front face of the drum the old used drums...

Yes I did. But honestly (and I swear I'm not trying to be a wisea$$ here) how could you possibly put the backing plate on after the axle?

Oh, and the green bearings and retaining rings do appear to be fully seated on the axle. Thanks, CE