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Could the cam plug leak too?

Good idea. Solid lifters I don't have. Making one never ocurred to me! I'll use a few of the old lifters to fabricobble some solid ones. Thank you!

I need to call Hughes. It is an older HER 1418ALN -110 +3 and I cannot find the specs for it on their web page anymore.

I need to check my valve to piston clearance in the 360 Mag I am building right now. I was going to use the clay method. If I am doing this with hydraulic lifters, how can I ensure an accurate measurement? Is there a way to ensure that the lifters are fully pumped up before proceeding? Thanks...

Magnum for me. Factory bottom end is very strong. People throw 400 horse at them all the time. Heads breath better. Eq heads even better and don't crack etc. Stud mounted rockers aren't ideal, true. And loving the hyd roller cam /lifters. Thin rings so usually very little bore wear, etc.

Fumeless oven cleaner works great, followed by pressure washer, brushes for passages, etc

99 magnum here, also sans tensioner

nm9stheham, this is similar to the grease we used at the dealer. I don't remember it being ARP brand, but it was in a similar container with a brush in the cap just like this. Again, I do remember it was dedicated to this purpose. Bearings Clearance Basics - Circle Track Magazine

Agree. Everyone knows what is meant by "freeze plug." I also don't say propeller shaft, etc............. And I also won't stop calling my "side cutters" dykes. Made me think of a machine shop teacher who said the other day that in school they can't use the word "nuts" anymore. They are now...

Thanks guys. I'm gonna give 'em a try.

Well did the main clearances today they pretty much run from .0015 to .0025 clearance. Almost all of them are out of round by .001 to .0015 as well. And all in the same direction/location

Yeah , 2000 fsm for rod bolts is exactly the same. Lightly oil and torque to......etc. glad I looked it up. I was thinking about it today and the 273 engine in my 68 was put together (by me) with oiled bolts. So far no probs. Time will tell cause im not taking it back apart!

Hey,. Wondering if any of you are running the .028 thick Mr. Gasket head gaskets. There are a few bad reviews over at summit on these so i wanted to get a few more opinions. I know their leaks could have been prep or head/block related too. Anyhow the thinness of it makes them attractive, and...

Of course. Makes perfect sense!

Hey All, Fsm calls for two drops of loctite 518 under the rear main bearing cap. I plan on using it. Anyone know what the reason for it is? Just curious. Thanks, CE

Yeah, under the crank installation section of the 2000 factory service manual, step (8) is: Clean and oil all cap bolts, install caps and alternately tighten to 85 ft lbs.

I wish I could remember, but that was 25 years ago. I do remember we only used it for torquing engine parts though. Was a Chrysler dealer as a matter of fact. Well, I guess I'll torque them up dry! Thanks, CE

Hmmm, this is totally contrary to what we always did at the dealership. We lubed the bolt threads with a grease (specifically for that purpose) before torquing. The reason given was that a dry bolt would drag or gall and not give you a fully torqued assembly.

That is going to be the first method I try. Thanks, CE

Ha, now you got me all paranoid. The machine shop used the main bolts to hold the block in the honing machine, etc. There has to be at least two or thee cycles on them at this point... I'm gonna use em' but I won't sleep well tonight.....:BangHead: Incidentally, I just replaced all of the wheel...

Dial bore gauges change when you breathe on them! Yes, always set up a standard and test. At home I dont have a way to stack up a decent standars so I use a mic which has been set with a gauge block. Not perfect but close enough for this kind of work. In fact I was going to do some measuring of...

I play with my tool....... uhhhhh.... I mean tools all day long....

I'm going to start assy on my 5.9 magnum this weekend. I have my bearings from Hughes, prepped block and polished crank. I am aware of plastigauge, but don't have any. What I do have is a full set of inside and outside micrometers, snap gauges, gauge blocks, dial bore gauge, etc (I am a...

I got ya. I was just answering the post before that, where the guy was trying to narrow down which "red loctite" we were discussing. I found your experience very interesting.

Red loctite thread locker is what we are discussing.

So the guy that built engines on an assembly line used loctite, but everyone else says no way! Lol. We have some "internet consensus" going on right here!

Thanks all!

Interesting. Did they pin them too? I assume not as you'd probably have mentioned it, but thought I'd ask.

Hey All, I've always used aircraft form a gasket on freeze plugs. It has never let me down. The machinist that did my block recommended red locktite. I have plenty of that down in the shop too. Anyone here ever use it and prefer it? He builds some pretty wild dirt track engines. It must...

Hey All, I noticed that the oil hole in my #1 cam bearing isn't quite lined up with the feed hole. The bearing is flush on both sides of it's bore so the hole in the block must be off a bit. Should I try to go down the hole in the block with a long drill and open up the hole in the bearing...